Damn. Sorry to hear that. As one who has a lifetime back problem, you need to take care of that and rest it properly. Get some mates in if you can, to do the heavy stuff.harry potter wrote:managed to badly damage my back in the process so works have been rather slow.
next problem is to get the box back in the truck, back movement is rather limited.
V8 finally started after 3 years of sitting, over the moon
Re: V8 finally started after 3 years of sitting, over the mo
Alan
1983 ex-army FFR 109 Stage 1
2005 Disco 2 HSE TD5
1983 ex-army FFR 109 Stage 1
2005 Disco 2 HSE TD5
Re: V8 finally started after 3 years of sitting, over the mo
Don't cut the chassis rail. It will weaken it.harry potter wrote:the pipe from #5 cylinder is clashing with the chassis rail,
what are the thought to trimming a bit out of the chassis and welding a new dished section in?
have given the pipe a bang with the hammer but not overly keen, a couple of big hits haven't made much of a dent. don't want to end up putting a hole in them. do not have means to heat them
You can bash the living crap out of the exhaust and it won't make any difference.
Check this out:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=azPKIjxmmdU
Alan
1983 ex-army FFR 109 Stage 1
2005 Disco 2 HSE TD5
1983 ex-army FFR 109 Stage 1
2005 Disco 2 HSE TD5
-
- Posts: 262
- Joined: Thu Mar 15, 2007 10:53 pm
- Location: Leamington Spa
Re: V8 finally started after 3 years of sitting, over the mo
We finally have a gear box back in the truck!!!
Spent ages trying to get the rubber mounts to fit. Lost 1.5 hrs trying to get to fit and get thr nuts on the threads.
Back still in pain.
Decided won't bother with the manifolds. Haven't got the spare cash for a new alternator with a underslung slonoid. Just want to get it back on the road again
Starter motor bolt sheared whilst tightening. By the amount of muck on the two faces it had been fractured for quite a while. Glad it went now. Pain though as I would have liked to have fired it up this weekend.
Need to make a linkage up now for the over drive.
New passenger foot well to weld in next and original manifolds and exhaust to put back on.
Spent ages trying to get the rubber mounts to fit. Lost 1.5 hrs trying to get to fit and get thr nuts on the threads.
Back still in pain.
Decided won't bother with the manifolds. Haven't got the spare cash for a new alternator with a underslung slonoid. Just want to get it back on the road again
Starter motor bolt sheared whilst tightening. By the amount of muck on the two faces it had been fractured for quite a while. Glad it went now. Pain though as I would have liked to have fired it up this weekend.
Need to make a linkage up now for the over drive.
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)
New passenger foot well to weld in next and original manifolds and exhaust to put back on.
-
- Posts: 262
- Joined: Thu Mar 15, 2007 10:53 pm
- Location: Leamington Spa
Re: V8 finally started after 3 years of sitting, over the mo
Well it's time for a small and long overdue update.
I finally have a drivable truck again. Was able to move it about over the drive way under own steam - reversed over some soil heaps in low range and didn't pop into neutral so taking that as a massive positive.
I have two questions:
1) over drive: when is it engaged? Push Rod in or rod out on the back of the over drive? See the two photos
![Image](http://i706.photobucket.com/albums/ww70/fragglerock1664/land%20rover%20stage%201/5547FC72-1287-4886-9E7A-87C7469686F1.jpg)
![Image](http://i706.photobucket.com/albums/ww70/fragglerock1664/land%20rover%20stage%201/9679F8B9-47FE-4C67-B24C-9D380A465934.jpg)
2) drivers footwell behind the pedals. There are small rust holes that grew bigger as l cleaned up with the wire wheel. I want to plate it this time and avoid having to take the wing off again and cut out the whole footwell. However there are the ribs in the footwell plate that would prevent a piece of sheet metal been placed flush. Any suggestions please how to do this.
![Image](http://i706.photobucket.com/albums/ww70/fragglerock1664/land%20rover%20stage%201/5100F8ED-92D9-41E4-B11A-B0B01714BFCB.jpg)
I finally have a drivable truck again. Was able to move it about over the drive way under own steam - reversed over some soil heaps in low range and didn't pop into neutral so taking that as a massive positive.
I have two questions:
1) over drive: when is it engaged? Push Rod in or rod out on the back of the over drive? See the two photos
![Image](http://i706.photobucket.com/albums/ww70/fragglerock1664/land%20rover%20stage%201/5547FC72-1287-4886-9E7A-87C7469686F1.jpg)
![Image](http://i706.photobucket.com/albums/ww70/fragglerock1664/land%20rover%20stage%201/9679F8B9-47FE-4C67-B24C-9D380A465934.jpg)
2) drivers footwell behind the pedals. There are small rust holes that grew bigger as l cleaned up with the wire wheel. I want to plate it this time and avoid having to take the wing off again and cut out the whole footwell. However there are the ribs in the footwell plate that would prevent a piece of sheet metal been placed flush. Any suggestions please how to do this.
![Image](http://i706.photobucket.com/albums/ww70/fragglerock1664/land%20rover%20stage%201/5100F8ED-92D9-41E4-B11A-B0B01714BFCB.jpg)
Re: V8 finally started after 3 years of sitting, over the mo
This may help, http://www.lrfaq.org/Series/FaireyOverd ... alPg9.htmlharry potter wrote: 1) over drive: when is it engaged? Push Rod in or rod out on the back of the over drive? See the two photos
Looking at your photo, that suggests that it is out when it is engaged (that is, the vice grips rock forward to engage), and in when disengaged. I think that is how it is with my PTO output.
Best to road test to be certain.
Sorry, can't be more certain.
Chop it all out and put in a new sheet. Don't overlay it or your rust problem will transfer to the new part. It will need stiffening (hence the formed parts).harry potter wrote: 2) drivers footwell behind the pedals. There are small rust holes that grew bigger as l cleaned up with the wire wheel. I want to plate it this time and avoid having to take the wing off again and cut out the whole footwell. However there are the ribs in the footwell plate that would prevent a piece of sheet metal been placed flush. Any suggestions please how to do this.
Alan
1983 ex-army FFR 109 Stage 1
2005 Disco 2 HSE TD5
1983 ex-army FFR 109 Stage 1
2005 Disco 2 HSE TD5
-
- Posts: 262
- Joined: Thu Mar 15, 2007 10:53 pm
- Location: Leamington Spa
Re: V8 finally started after 3 years of sitting, over the mo
Thanks for that Alan.
Should you ever drive with the over drive in the neutral position? Will that cause damage? I have never used one before
Should you ever drive with the over drive in the neutral position? Will that cause damage? I have never used one before
Re: V8 finally started after 3 years of sitting, over the mo
I would imagine that you would not be able to drive at all in neutral. In the operation manual I linked to, they state that one should think of the overdrive as another gearbox. So, you use the clutch to engage and disengage the overdrive and that means passing through neutral.harry potter wrote:Thanks for that Alan.
Should you ever drive with the over drive in the neutral position? Will that cause damage? I have never used one before
Another way to think about it is that while disengaged the overdrive provides 1:1 output, and when engaged, provides 1:1.278. That is 1000rpm in:1000rpm out vs 1000rpm in:1278rpm out (that's a backward way of saying 0.782:1 ratio).
However, neutral provides 1000rpm in: 0rpm out.
Alan
1983 ex-army FFR 109 Stage 1
2005 Disco 2 HSE TD5
1983 ex-army FFR 109 Stage 1
2005 Disco 2 HSE TD5
-
- Posts: 262
- Joined: Thu Mar 15, 2007 10:53 pm
- Location: Leamington Spa
Re: V8 finally started after 3 years of sitting, over the moon
Evening all,
After almost a year away l back again with a fresh MOT
After standing for a few years the front brakes had scized and required replacing.
Been a busy few years while the landy has sat on the drive way. Raced every triathlon distance, built a track race bike, now planning on riding land ends to John o'groats next year.
Hopefully get to do a couple of RTV trails before Christmas with MROC, on the look out for a moto trials bike and a way to get a 600cc sports bike in and on the back of a Stage 1.
Regards
HP
After almost a year away l back again with a fresh MOT
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)
After standing for a few years the front brakes had scized and required replacing.
Been a busy few years while the landy has sat on the drive way. Raced every triathlon distance, built a track race bike, now planning on riding land ends to John o'groats next year.
Hopefully get to do a couple of RTV trails before Christmas with MROC, on the look out for a moto trials bike and a way to get a 600cc sports bike in and on the back of a Stage 1.
Regards
HP
-
- Posts: 262
- Joined: Thu Mar 15, 2007 10:53 pm
- Location: Leamington Spa
Re: V8 finally started after 3 years of sitting, over the moon
Truck may be for sale. Please PM for details.
Looking to sell my beloved Land Rover 109 Stage 1 V8. 1982. Known as "Kate the V8". Located in Warwickshire, England. Would ship but buyer to organise.
£10,000
Owned for the past 12 years but not getting the opportunity to use as often as l would like now. Good clean and straight. One small dent in the front wing where l caught a branch.
MOT till October
Last year l replaced the gear box as the original was jumping out of low range. New box is excellent (RTV trial last year was fine)
Fairey Over drive.
Engine was replaced 11 years ago for another 3.5 V8. Been brilliant ever since. Plenty of power and sounds great. No smoke. Regular oil changes.
Chassis is good conditon, been wax oiled a few times and would benefit being done again.
Modular steel wheels with MT tyres.
Drivers and passengers foot wells replaced when doing the gear box.
Replaced rear spring outriggers, rear cross member has been patched where it joins the chassis rail.
Replaced the fuel tank.
Full length canvas roof- with military roll bar mounted to bulk head. Canvas is has a couple of small holes and a tear on the back flap.
Parabolic leaf springs
LED side lights and indicators.
RX8 black leather front seats and cubby box. Changed for comfort. Have been wired in.
2 x bench seats with cushions in rear.
Narrow width spare wheel
Folder of receipts.
Spares:
LT95 gear box (low range needs looking at) clutch plate.
Steering relay (new)
Southdown stainless steel snorkel (new & never fitted)
1 steel modular rim, freshly painted
Box of assorted parts, nothing too special in there. Military canvas, requires patching and straps reattach. New 5ltr tin of Fabseal. 5ltrs engine oil. Waxoil and kit. Original front seat.
Looking to sell my beloved Land Rover 109 Stage 1 V8. 1982. Known as "Kate the V8". Located in Warwickshire, England. Would ship but buyer to organise.
£10,000
Owned for the past 12 years but not getting the opportunity to use as often as l would like now. Good clean and straight. One small dent in the front wing where l caught a branch.
MOT till October
Last year l replaced the gear box as the original was jumping out of low range. New box is excellent (RTV trial last year was fine)
Fairey Over drive.
Engine was replaced 11 years ago for another 3.5 V8. Been brilliant ever since. Plenty of power and sounds great. No smoke. Regular oil changes.
Chassis is good conditon, been wax oiled a few times and would benefit being done again.
Modular steel wheels with MT tyres.
Drivers and passengers foot wells replaced when doing the gear box.
Replaced rear spring outriggers, rear cross member has been patched where it joins the chassis rail.
Replaced the fuel tank.
Full length canvas roof- with military roll bar mounted to bulk head. Canvas is has a couple of small holes and a tear on the back flap.
Parabolic leaf springs
LED side lights and indicators.
RX8 black leather front seats and cubby box. Changed for comfort. Have been wired in.
2 x bench seats with cushions in rear.
Narrow width spare wheel
Folder of receipts.
Spares:
LT95 gear box (low range needs looking at) clutch plate.
Steering relay (new)
Southdown stainless steel snorkel (new & never fitted)
1 steel modular rim, freshly painted
Box of assorted parts, nothing too special in there. Military canvas, requires patching and straps reattach. New 5ltr tin of Fabseal. 5ltrs engine oil. Waxoil and kit. Original front seat.
Re: V8 finally started after 3 years of sitting, over the moon
Good luck with the sale.
Alan
1983 ex-army FFR 109 Stage 1
2005 Disco 2 HSE TD5
1983 ex-army FFR 109 Stage 1
2005 Disco 2 HSE TD5
-
- Posts: 262
- Joined: Thu Mar 15, 2007 10:53 pm
- Location: Leamington Spa
Re: V8 finally started after 3 years of sitting, over the moon
Should prob update the title of this thread to - "Sat for 8 months while l built a extension on the house waiting to fit the new radiator" - Kate the V8 has just passed its MOT and TAX'ed again for another 12mths.
Few maintenance items required this time for next MOT, new exhaust pipe, light bowls and fuel pipes. Running great.
Also could do with a new canvas and door tops.
Instantly earning its keep again with 0.5T of broken concrete and tip runs.
Few maintenance items required this time for next MOT, new exhaust pipe, light bowls and fuel pipes. Running great.
Also could do with a new canvas and door tops.
Instantly earning its keep again with 0.5T of broken concrete and tip runs.
Re: V8 finally started after 3 years of sitting, over the moon
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)
Alan
1983 ex-army FFR 109 Stage 1
2005 Disco 2 HSE TD5
1983 ex-army FFR 109 Stage 1
2005 Disco 2 HSE TD5
-
- Posts: 262
- Joined: Thu Mar 15, 2007 10:53 pm
- Location: Leamington Spa
Re: V8 finally started after 3 years of sitting, over the moon
Hi all, back again. Trucks sat - not quite 3 years this time but long enough!
New water pump and timing cover major works this time. (needed cavitation damage repairing on timing cover) Will upload photos when l find out how to do again.
Jobs this time arround
1. Remove sheared stud from water pump cover.
2. Replace timing chain (because timing cover is off)
3. Install new water pump & plumb in re-corded rad
4. New fuel lines, pump and filter to install
5. Full fluid changes (Oils and brakes)
6. Install new rear exhaust pipe
7. Clean chassis of surface rust
8. New headlights
9. MOT
10. find a new canvas hood
10. Enjoy being back on the road and use! Get to some RTV trials and classic car shows
Cheers![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)
New water pump and timing cover major works this time. (needed cavitation damage repairing on timing cover) Will upload photos when l find out how to do again.
Jobs this time arround
1. Remove sheared stud from water pump cover.
2. Replace timing chain (because timing cover is off)
3. Install new water pump & plumb in re-corded rad
4. New fuel lines, pump and filter to install
5. Full fluid changes (Oils and brakes)
6. Install new rear exhaust pipe
7. Clean chassis of surface rust
8. New headlights
9. MOT
10. find a new canvas hood
10. Enjoy being back on the road and use! Get to some RTV trials and classic car shows
Cheers
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)