Random cutting out and shoddy idle
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darkangelv24
- Posts: 11
- Joined: Wed Mar 12, 2008 3:12 pm
- Location: Solihull, Home of the Legend
Random cutting out and shoddy idle
the stage 1 v8 on my drive idles really badly when the choke is out and wont run for very long before cutting out. when the chocke is in it runs smoother but after about 5 mins of running at idle it just dies with no warning. Any ideas?
Not an expert, but someone may come along who is.
Might be teaching granny to suck eggs (apologies if you've already looked at these). I'd check that (in no particular order/priority):
The idle speed is set correctly first (see Landrover manuals V8 Supplement for set up procedure). When the choke is pulled out it sets the idle faster and therefore can overcome some other problems such as partially blocked jets.
Float chamber valve blockages (if it cuts out, it may be that there isn't enough flow of fuel to the carbs to sustain running for very long). Can occur if left stood for a long time as the fuel evaporates and leaves a chalky residue that blocks everything up. The float can also have a hole or be damaged. Fuel starvation may be caused by weak pump, knackered filters, damaged/leaking pipework etc.
The choke also changes the mixture, so if the mixture isn't setup correctly it may not run properly when the choke is not pulled and may run roughly when choke is out. Probably one of the first (and easiest) things to check. You'll need an adjustment tool to do it though. Adjustment tool ask for the LR one as this is slightly different to other Stromberg tools. Also good to balance the carb after (either by ear, or using something like Gunsons Carb Balancer)
Split diapraghms in the carb and the vulcanised mounting plate can cause funny effects. Take the four screws off the top carb dome and you can then remove the diapraghm and inspect it for splits or tears. You can get replacements or a full carb overhaul kit.
No oil or incorrect oil in carb dash pots (black screw on the top) can affect the idle and throttle response and if it's like that when carbs are setup or tuned, it will have a knock on effect.
A damaged, dirty or worn needle (B1EU in the CD 175 I think) can affect running dramatically. It's unlikely to be caused by this, but if you're getting desperate, replacing them won't do you any harm (although they are about £10 a piece!)
And of course there are the ignition things to check such as plugs, leads, points and coil etc. that can affect running dramatically.
If you do decide to strip the carbs, it can be quite fiddely to remove them. If you find an spare small open spanner to fit the mounting fixings, cut it down and put a 90 deg bend in it to get to the couple of awkward ones. This'll save (some) of the skin on your knuckles!
Might be teaching granny to suck eggs (apologies if you've already looked at these). I'd check that (in no particular order/priority):
The idle speed is set correctly first (see Landrover manuals V8 Supplement for set up procedure). When the choke is pulled out it sets the idle faster and therefore can overcome some other problems such as partially blocked jets.
Float chamber valve blockages (if it cuts out, it may be that there isn't enough flow of fuel to the carbs to sustain running for very long). Can occur if left stood for a long time as the fuel evaporates and leaves a chalky residue that blocks everything up. The float can also have a hole or be damaged. Fuel starvation may be caused by weak pump, knackered filters, damaged/leaking pipework etc.
The choke also changes the mixture, so if the mixture isn't setup correctly it may not run properly when the choke is not pulled and may run roughly when choke is out. Probably one of the first (and easiest) things to check. You'll need an adjustment tool to do it though. Adjustment tool ask for the LR one as this is slightly different to other Stromberg tools. Also good to balance the carb after (either by ear, or using something like Gunsons Carb Balancer)
Split diapraghms in the carb and the vulcanised mounting plate can cause funny effects. Take the four screws off the top carb dome and you can then remove the diapraghm and inspect it for splits or tears. You can get replacements or a full carb overhaul kit.
No oil or incorrect oil in carb dash pots (black screw on the top) can affect the idle and throttle response and if it's like that when carbs are setup or tuned, it will have a knock on effect.
A damaged, dirty or worn needle (B1EU in the CD 175 I think) can affect running dramatically. It's unlikely to be caused by this, but if you're getting desperate, replacing them won't do you any harm (although they are about £10 a piece!)
And of course there are the ignition things to check such as plugs, leads, points and coil etc. that can affect running dramatically.
If you do decide to strip the carbs, it can be quite fiddely to remove them. If you find an spare small open spanner to fit the mounting fixings, cut it down and put a 90 deg bend in it to get to the couple of awkward ones. This'll save (some) of the skin on your knuckles!
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darkangelv24
- Posts: 11
- Joined: Wed Mar 12, 2008 3:12 pm
- Location: Solihull, Home of the Legend