Driveline slack and the clunk of death...
Driveline slack and the clunk of death...
Hi Chaps/Chappettes,
I've another problem with my Stage-1. Since I bought it last year I noticed a 'clunk' noise and movement in the driveline whenever I change gear and then release the clutch. I've been under the landy to check for driveline slack in the propshafts/diffs and they do seem to have some slack, both front and rear. I don't know whether this is normal, or whether just the gearbox should have slack etc?
Last time I worked on cars with propshafts and was told it was a bad thing to have slack, because it just knackeres the diffs...
This whole things has been getting worst over the last year but I've not done anything about it yet?
What am I looking at? Rebuild of both diffs and transfer box?
Cheers!
Michel
I've another problem with my Stage-1. Since I bought it last year I noticed a 'clunk' noise and movement in the driveline whenever I change gear and then release the clutch. I've been under the landy to check for driveline slack in the propshafts/diffs and they do seem to have some slack, both front and rear. I don't know whether this is normal, or whether just the gearbox should have slack etc?
Last time I worked on cars with propshafts and was told it was a bad thing to have slack, because it just knackeres the diffs...
This whole things has been getting worst over the last year but I've not done anything about it yet?
What am I looking at? Rebuild of both diffs and transfer box?
Cheers!
Michel
Transfer box and main gearbox are one part, se I think it's not very usefull to replaxe only the transfer gears..
I have the same "clunk" and it's getting worse. Replaced the front propshaft and it got a bit better. The front diff has loads of slack though. I think of replacing that but it's hard to find a replacement that doesn't break the bank..
I have the same "clunk" and it's getting worse. Replaced the front propshaft and it got a bit better. The front diff has loads of slack though. I think of replacing that but it's hard to find a replacement that doesn't break the bank..
know what you mean Mafred. I am afraid of the bill for the whole joke.... I suppose I'll either bite the bullet, get down and dirty for a few days and do the diffs myself (and the whole gefaffel that goes with it) or I'll pay through the nose to get my local landy shop to do it. I reckon the bill is probably gonna come in at around £1000....
I'll keep on driving it until it goes pop. Have more pressing concerns at the moment, like what color to paint the bstard thing in!!
I'll keep on driving it until it goes pop. Have more pressing concerns at the moment, like what color to paint the bstard thing in!!
Color? MASAI RED can't go wrong with that...
By adapting the drivestyle a bit, it is no problem driving it without the "clunk". I only have real problems when I put it in reverse and I start driving. It rattles like hell, and without beïng very kind on the clutch the thing nearly makes jumps untill you picked up some speed.
Hopefully I can find a replacement diff for acceptable price in the near future..
When it gets real bad you can always remove front propshaft and drive home with difflock on..
By adapting the drivestyle a bit, it is no problem driving it without the "clunk". I only have real problems when I put it in reverse and I start driving. It rattles like hell, and without beïng very kind on the clutch the thing nearly makes jumps untill you picked up some speed.
Hopefully I can find a replacement diff for acceptable price in the near future..
When it gets real bad you can always remove front propshaft and drive home with difflock on..
Actually, I was thinking of really really really (!) dark matt green and paint the rims in copper. As in the photo. At the moment it's just primed and the front fender needs some work doing to it, but I am dreaming. Nobody can take that away from me!
Have a look here: http://www.michel-thomasius.com/ebay/Landy_Paint01.jpg
http://www.michel-thomasius.com/ebay/Landy_Paint02.jpg
http://www.michel-thomasius.com/ebay/Landy_Paint03.jpg
I personally prefer 03! [/url]
Have a look here: http://www.michel-thomasius.com/ebay/Landy_Paint01.jpg
http://www.michel-thomasius.com/ebay/Landy_Paint02.jpg
http://www.michel-thomasius.com/ebay/Landy_Paint03.jpg
I personally prefer 03! [/url]
Glad it's not just mine with a bit of slack! I've always had a degree of slack in the drivetrain. Noticed most when putting the hand brake on, I get a little roll back or forward. It's never got worse though through the years so assumed that its either wearing very slowly or is normal. Handbrake almost useless anyway.
Always had a little clunk as well, but again never got worse and didn't sound or feel expensive.
Green sounds good, Masai Red much better if you want to be seen coming! Bit off thread, but anyone know roughly how many litres of paint to spray a Stage 1?
Always had a little clunk as well, but again never got worse and didn't sound or feel expensive.
Green sounds good, Masai Red much better if you want to be seen coming! Bit off thread, but anyone know roughly how many litres of paint to spray a Stage 1?
all landys roll abit when you put the hand break on as the hand break
locks the rear prop not the wheels as they do in cars, so you get the slight
back or forward roll... the other thing that causes a lot of slack in the drive
line is a worn uv joints on the prop shafts, best way to check is jack up
front & back on stage 1s ( wheels wont turn if you just jack up the front or
rear) use axle stands ect & turn the wheels to rotate the props & check the
joints as you do this. if only one of the stubs out of the four is worn it wont
move to much just by wiggling it with your hand untill you find it by turning
the wheels, ive had this happen to me on two landies!!! ob it wont get rid
of all you slack, but if you do have a worn joint it will take up a lot of it.
locks the rear prop not the wheels as they do in cars, so you get the slight
back or forward roll... the other thing that causes a lot of slack in the drive
line is a worn uv joints on the prop shafts, best way to check is jack up
front & back on stage 1s ( wheels wont turn if you just jack up the front or
rear) use axle stands ect & turn the wheels to rotate the props & check the
joints as you do this. if only one of the stubs out of the four is worn it wont
move to much just by wiggling it with your hand untill you find it by turning
the wheels, ive had this happen to me on two landies!!! ob it wont get rid
of all you slack, but if you do have a worn joint it will take up a lot of it.
why do we do it to our selves!!!
It's the motion of the ocean, not the size of the wave apparently!My missus tells me that size doesnt matter
Surely you can see if prop UJ's are worn by just disconnecting one end and rotating it a little to feel the backlash in the UJ and the splines. This way you can also extend the shaft (no jokes please Jonnyboy! ) along the splines and check if there is wear at points along them. Problem with LR's is knowing what is acceptable and what is not. They were hardly precision machines when new (which of course is part of the charm)!
The transferbox and the main gearbox casing are one part, but the two gearbox's are completly seperate inside, you can rebuild the transfer box without draining the oil from the main gearbox.Manfred wrote:Transfer box and main gearbox are one part, se I think it's not very usefull to replaxe only the transfer gears..
I have the same "clunk" and it's getting worse. Replaced the front propshaft and it got a bit better. The front diff has loads of slack though. I think of replacing that but it's hard to find a replacement that doesn't break the bank..
Basil
Landrover, If it don't leak oil, it's ran out.
Stage1 station wagon, 3.9 V8, galv chassis, parabolic's, lpg
Stage1 station wagon, 3.9 V8, galv chassis, parabolic's, lpg
Cost is a good reason, I have replaced several main gearbox's and not the transfer box and the other way round on all type's of landrover, there is little point in rebuilding something if it is in good order to start with, plus a tranfer box can be uprated or renewed with the gearbox in situ in less than a day.Manfred wrote:True, you can, but unless having suffered from low oil level in transfer box in my opinion only rebuilding transfer gears is not very usefull. The main gears have done the same amount of miles, so why not replacing them also? Better to open up everything once then twice..
Cheer's Basil
Landrover, If it don't leak oil, it's ran out.
Stage1 station wagon, 3.9 V8, galv chassis, parabolic's, lpg
Stage1 station wagon, 3.9 V8, galv chassis, parabolic's, lpg