Better economy
Better economy
Hi,
perhaps this can help anyone: I was looking to optimise fuel consumption, so I adjusted the distributor as discribed in the handbook, and renewed the contact breaker points. After that, I overhauled the carbs, (CD 175)- that means new needles, jets, diaphragms etc. Then I adjusted the carbs. Fuel consumption was about 18-19 ltrs per 100 km. That didn`t please me realy, `cause I`ve got a book about Land Rovers, which says that the Stage One can do 100 km with 16 ltrs if you drive normaly.
So I looked again at all parts which influence the fuel consumption, and I noticed that there was a problem with the intake temperature control system.
The temperature sensor in the air filter didn`t work, that means, the car gets hot air for the whole time. In normal case, it should only get hot air, if it is cold. But when the engine is hot, the flap should be closed, so that the engine gets cold air, that means air with more oxigene (O), which results in better burn.
For a test, I simply disconnected the tube from the vacuum capsule and closed it. Now, the engine always gets cold air. After the next test, the car did 100 km with just under 16 liters. I drove normaly, no racing speed, but not as a snale, but using the overdrive regulary. I drove in town traffic a little bit, motorway a bit, and the biggest part overland.
I think, that the air intake temperature control is sometimes neglected, but it strongly influences fuel consumption. Perhaps you should control it.
regards
Horst
perhaps this can help anyone: I was looking to optimise fuel consumption, so I adjusted the distributor as discribed in the handbook, and renewed the contact breaker points. After that, I overhauled the carbs, (CD 175)- that means new needles, jets, diaphragms etc. Then I adjusted the carbs. Fuel consumption was about 18-19 ltrs per 100 km. That didn`t please me realy, `cause I`ve got a book about Land Rovers, which says that the Stage One can do 100 km with 16 ltrs if you drive normaly.
So I looked again at all parts which influence the fuel consumption, and I noticed that there was a problem with the intake temperature control system.
The temperature sensor in the air filter didn`t work, that means, the car gets hot air for the whole time. In normal case, it should only get hot air, if it is cold. But when the engine is hot, the flap should be closed, so that the engine gets cold air, that means air with more oxigene (O), which results in better burn.
For a test, I simply disconnected the tube from the vacuum capsule and closed it. Now, the engine always gets cold air. After the next test, the car did 100 km with just under 16 liters. I drove normaly, no racing speed, but not as a snale, but using the overdrive regulary. I drove in town traffic a little bit, motorway a bit, and the biggest part overland.
I think, that the air intake temperature control is sometimes neglected, but it strongly influences fuel consumption. Perhaps you should control it.
regards
Horst
-
- Posts: 339
- Joined: Tue Nov 21, 2006 9:45 am
- Location: Wheelers Hill, Victoria, Australia
- Contact:
I highly recommend changing the distributor over to an electronic version, no contacts to worry about and you can use a transistor coil which gives you oodles more spark. And as a result you can open up your plug gaps.
Stirling
Videos:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a8Xljp6DD9g 17 June
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_mlJblv9iUo 24 May
& Others!
Videos:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a8Xljp6DD9g 17 June
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_mlJblv9iUo 24 May
& Others!
-
- Posts: 339
- Joined: Tue Nov 21, 2006 9:45 am
- Location: Wheelers Hill, Victoria, Australia
- Contact:
One thing that can help steven is changing the cam. If you want to go with a slight improvement put in the 3.9L cam shaft, it will give you a little more power. Or you could always research into some other after market cams, there is some more suited to LPG.
Stirling
Stirling
Stirling
Videos:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a8Xljp6DD9g 17 June
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_mlJblv9iUo 24 May
& Others!
Videos:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a8Xljp6DD9g 17 June
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_mlJblv9iUo 24 May
& Others!
I have a 3.9 cam placed inside,before the 3.9 cam i was running with 33 liters/100 km.stirlsilver wrote:One thing that can help steven is changing the cam. If you want to go with a slight improvement put in the 3.9L cam shaft, it will give you a little more power. Or you could always research into some other after market cams, there is some more suited to LPG.
Stirling
I have just completed my rebuild,i have placed :
New valves and seats grinded
New valve springs
Heads checked (had a water fit).
New piston rings
New big end bearings.
And if the stupid hose from the thermostat bypass didn't leak i would have done a proper testdrive...
So i am hoping to get 22 liters/100 km.
- gary_in_nz
- Posts: 138
- Joined: Thu Jan 04, 2007 7:57 am
- Location: Gisborne, New Zealand
- Contact:
economy
hi, thats what i worked mine out to be about, 22l/100kms, and the only mod i have to my motor is, an electronic dizzy from a v8 ford, and removed the restrictors from the manifold.
i'm running old cross ply track gripper tyres 7.50 16LT (noisy as on the road, brillant off road,hopefully soon to get some radials, once i take her off the road for a bit, but thats another story), and at least 2/3 of my driving would be around town, going to and from work.
i get 230 to 240 odd kms to a 50 litre tank of 95 octane. I use a lead additive (Contains 200ml/litre kerosene and 800ml/litre alkyl phosphate) since the fuel in NZ has no lead, to help the valve seats out since the motor was designed to run on leaded gas, this only costs the same as a litre of 95 here, about NZD $1.58.
My rover 3.5L has done 48,000kms since a complete rebuild by specialist rover team, called Summit Engineering (Rotorua).
Please tell me how you get on with the rebuilt motor and what economy are you getting from it.
Cheers, Gary
i'm running old cross ply track gripper tyres 7.50 16LT (noisy as on the road, brillant off road,hopefully soon to get some radials, once i take her off the road for a bit, but thats another story), and at least 2/3 of my driving would be around town, going to and from work.
i get 230 to 240 odd kms to a 50 litre tank of 95 octane. I use a lead additive (Contains 200ml/litre kerosene and 800ml/litre alkyl phosphate) since the fuel in NZ has no lead, to help the valve seats out since the motor was designed to run on leaded gas, this only costs the same as a litre of 95 here, about NZD $1.58.
My rover 3.5L has done 48,000kms since a complete rebuild by specialist rover team, called Summit Engineering (Rotorua).
Please tell me how you get on with the rebuilt motor and what economy are you getting from it.
Cheers, Gary
"If it ain't v8, take it back"
- gary_in_nz
- Posts: 138
- Joined: Thu Jan 04, 2007 7:57 am
- Location: Gisborne, New Zealand
- Contact:
After Glencoyne have rebuilt my engine (3.9 cam, brand new SU's etc) and fitted high ratio gears, I use approx 12l/100 km when cruising around 90 km/h - pushing the load pedal of course affects this otherwise nice figure
Michael
1965 109 FC SIIA
1982 109 V8 SIII CSW Stage One
1982 109 V8 SIII HCPU Stage One
1990 RRC Vogue SE
1965 109 FC SIIA
1982 109 V8 SIII CSW Stage One
1982 109 V8 SIII HCPU Stage One
1990 RRC Vogue SE
Important
Hi,
you should have a look at your steering chain. If it is to long, your timing will be wrong, so the engine won`t run smoothy on low rpm. Fuel consumption will get worse, and power decreases. I renewed chain, cam, rocker shafts etc. Have a look at www.v8engines.com . There are good tips and good illustrations. The parts for rebuilding the engine are payeable. I bought the most of them at www.limora.com in Germany.
regards
Horst
you should have a look at your steering chain. If it is to long, your timing will be wrong, so the engine won`t run smoothy on low rpm. Fuel consumption will get worse, and power decreases. I renewed chain, cam, rocker shafts etc. Have a look at www.v8engines.com . There are good tips and good illustrations. The parts for rebuilding the engine are payeable. I bought the most of them at www.limora.com in Germany.
regards
Horst
Re: Important
I have called several times with chris from rpi is a great guy and very funny to speak withLarosto wrote:Hi,
you should have a look at your steering chain. If it is to long, your timing will be wrong, so the engine won`t run smoothy on low rpm. Fuel consumption will get worse, and power decreases. I renewed chain, cam, rocker shafts etc. Have a look at www.v8engines.com . There are good tips and good illustrations. The parts for rebuilding the engine are payeable. I bought the most of them at www.limora.com in Germany.
regards
Horst