My Stage One just arrived last week. I am working to perform all of the preventive maintenance as I start out on it. I want to get the oil changed - but I have no idea what size oil filter to put on it. The old one is worn bare - no label. The parts catalogs in the US to do cover this non-NADA model.
Do I use the same filter as for an early 1990's Range Rover (3.9 litre engine)?
Can anyone give me the size / manufacture that is supposed to fit. I can likely cross reference that to something on the shelves over here.
Another Oil Filter Question
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firemanshort
- Posts: 378
- Joined: Fri Feb 10, 2006 2:42 pm
- Location: Loudoun County, VA - near Wash DC
Another Oil Filter Question
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Firemanshort
Virginia, USA
Firemanshort
Virginia, USA
Hi
Just a word of warning if you have not changed an oil filter on a 3.5 V8
Because of the pump arrangement if you leave the filter off for too long the pump drains and you then have to prime it with soluble grease.
When changing filters I drain the sump and put new oil in sump then fill the new filter with oil and as soon as I have taken the old filter off I screw the new one on and start engine asap to circulate oil.
Just a word of warning if you have not changed an oil filter on a 3.5 V8
Because of the pump arrangement if you leave the filter off for too long the pump drains and you then have to prime it with soluble grease.
When changing filters I drain the sump and put new oil in sump then fill the new filter with oil and as soon as I have taken the old filter off I screw the new one on and start engine asap to circulate oil.
The pump is situated directly on top of the filter if the pump drains then there is not enough "suction" to start the oil circulating.
Undo the bolts holding the pump housing together and fully pack the pump operating cams with a light soluble (Vaseline) grease then re assemble. Fill filter with new oil and screw onto pump and then start up.
This works for me but other people may have a different less messy method
I use a soluble grease as it will meld with the oil when it is warm
As I said before it is a common occurance so when changing oil just keep an eye on the green light/pressure guage when restarting to check that all is well ie you have pressure. If the green light does not go out or pressure does not occur after an oil change or when fitting an engine that has stood for a while then pump priming is normally the answer.
Undo the bolts holding the pump housing together and fully pack the pump operating cams with a light soluble (Vaseline) grease then re assemble. Fill filter with new oil and screw onto pump and then start up.
This works for me but other people may have a different less messy method
I use a soluble grease as it will meld with the oil when it is warm
As I said before it is a common occurance so when changing oil just keep an eye on the green light/pressure guage when restarting to check that all is well ie you have pressure. If the green light does not go out or pressure does not occur after an oil change or when fitting an engine that has stood for a while then pump priming is normally the answer.
Sorry I'm a little late to the party, thanks for the in-depth reply!
After a lot of hassle, I've managed to order up a new oil pan gasket. It has been sitting for about a month without sump or filter, I assume the priming is an absolute necessarity then?
But I still don't know exactly where and what to open. Do I unbolt the whole thing where it mounts to the motor block, or unscrew the bolts (these bolts looked really weird, sort of with lots of spline-ish??) that looks to be holding the two pieces of the pump together? And then it just to fill the thing (where the two gears are located) with Vaseline, and bolt together again?
Also, while opening things, will I bust any seals or gaskets (that will need to be replaced)?
Thanks!
After a lot of hassle, I've managed to order up a new oil pan gasket. It has been sitting for about a month without sump or filter, I assume the priming is an absolute necessarity then?
But I still don't know exactly where and what to open. Do I unbolt the whole thing where it mounts to the motor block, or unscrew the bolts (these bolts looked really weird, sort of with lots of spline-ish??) that looks to be holding the two pieces of the pump together? And then it just to fill the thing (where the two gears are located) with Vaseline, and bolt together again?
Also, while opening things, will I bust any seals or gaskets (that will need to be replaced)?
Thanks!
I would think you would have to prime the pump as the filter has been off for so long although you may get away with it I would not know but I would prime to be on the safe side.
Yes its the 4 "splinish" ones ( there are special sockets for these) although I find a standard key fits these
There is a gasket but if you dismantle carefully you may get away with re using the old one
When you have split the casing you will find what look like 2 small gears meshing together (make sure they do not drop out) you then pack these gears fully with the grease and bolt housing together again screw on filter full of oil, fill sump to line on dip stick and fire up. ( see RPI suggestion below for turning engine without firing up.)
If it does not go on the first go reprime and try again
Note one of the oil gears is turned by the shaft on the dizzy so if you let it drop ensure it is re seated correctly
Again other users may have a different method.
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Another method I have heard about is to take out the dizzy ( remember this drives the pump) get a long screw driver. cut off handle.put into drill and put blade of screwdriver down the hole the dizzy came out of until blade locates in the slot in the pump shaft then turn drill until the oil light goes out
remember to bear down on the drill as it will have a tendency to come out of shaft and burr up the pump drive. This method alleviates the need to pack pump with grease.
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Extract from RPI site ( A really useful site for V8 owners )
Priming Oil Pumps (engine)
If your engine is supplied with the Oil Pump base plate fitted, you can be assured that a priming agent (Vaseline) has been packed into the oil pump gears to ensure trouble free priming, if it has not been fitted then you will need to do this yourself to get oil to turn the engine over if the distributor is not fitted (the distributor drives the oil pump), but if you forget and the distributor is fitted you will need to re-prime the oil pump before starting.
The best way to do this is not to worry about starting the engine but to remove the plugs and the coil lead and have a highly charged battery available. The engine (with the distributor fitted) will crank over at a speed that should allow the oil priming to be achieved in seconds (oil Light out and a visual check), and, unless you remove the oil pump again, no further priming should ever be required.
Yes its the 4 "splinish" ones ( there are special sockets for these) although I find a standard key fits these
There is a gasket but if you dismantle carefully you may get away with re using the old one
When you have split the casing you will find what look like 2 small gears meshing together (make sure they do not drop out) you then pack these gears fully with the grease and bolt housing together again screw on filter full of oil, fill sump to line on dip stick and fire up. ( see RPI suggestion below for turning engine without firing up.)
If it does not go on the first go reprime and try again
Note one of the oil gears is turned by the shaft on the dizzy so if you let it drop ensure it is re seated correctly
Again other users may have a different method.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Another method I have heard about is to take out the dizzy ( remember this drives the pump) get a long screw driver. cut off handle.put into drill and put blade of screwdriver down the hole the dizzy came out of until blade locates in the slot in the pump shaft then turn drill until the oil light goes out
remember to bear down on the drill as it will have a tendency to come out of shaft and burr up the pump drive. This method alleviates the need to pack pump with grease.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Extract from RPI site ( A really useful site for V8 owners )
Priming Oil Pumps (engine)
If your engine is supplied with the Oil Pump base plate fitted, you can be assured that a priming agent (Vaseline) has been packed into the oil pump gears to ensure trouble free priming, if it has not been fitted then you will need to do this yourself to get oil to turn the engine over if the distributor is not fitted (the distributor drives the oil pump), but if you forget and the distributor is fitted you will need to re-prime the oil pump before starting.
The best way to do this is not to worry about starting the engine but to remove the plugs and the coil lead and have a highly charged battery available. The engine (with the distributor fitted) will crank over at a speed that should allow the oil priming to be achieved in seconds (oil Light out and a visual check), and, unless you remove the oil pump again, no further priming should ever be required.