Get the most power out of a Stage 1 3.5L V8
Posted: Fri Apr 24, 2020 2:03 am
Hi I am new to this forum and sorry for a long first post...
Just wanted to hear your thoughts on the 3.5L power/torque raising possibilities
I got a ´85 110 County (pre Defender) since its age it is very much the same as the Stage 1 as it got a army 3.5L V8 and LT95 box and transfercase
But with discs in front and a few other modernities like roll down windows... (I use to own a `83 Army 109)
This truck I have turned into a overland vehicle with all amenities needed for -off the grid adventure-
The engine it got is unfortunately a 10G serial number block which means its a Stage 1 V8 8.13:1cr from `82
As far as I know its all original but recently rebuilt; Cam, heads, pistons, rings etc should all have been replaced with new original but I cant be 100% sure as I never spoken to the guy who did the job, so what was replaced and what was not is just a guess...
So its pretty weak to start with as being the army engine with 91 bhp, but without the air restrictors could be at 135 bhp, there are lots of different sayings about this so I do not know for sure
Raising the cr is impossible as well unless I put new pistons in, but for that rebuild cost I could easily drop a 3.9L in instead...
Engine itself was newly rebuilt for a 109 project (that got crashed) by some purist who replaced all with original same parts instead of taking the opportunity to put better gear in
I bought it for 600 bucks and put my inlet manifolds and Strömberg carbs on it, but I did not know that it was so weak, if I had known I would not have bought it
When I bought this truck it had a another stage 1 V8 in it, literally the same weak army engine
I did some experiments with that one and best effect I got was from a Pertronix Ignitor 2 unit that made it rev like a madman
I got no rev meter but it would not surprise me if it hit 7000-7500 rpm, it was craaaaaazy
It went really well with that setup
BUT...
One day on the beach it started piss out oil through the dipstick, LOTS of oil
So I think the maniac revving bent/damaged a hydraulic tappet for the pushrods so the pressure went bypass down into the crankcase and out through the dipstick
Instead of rebuilding the old motor I bought the truck with I replaced it with this 10G block without knowing it was just as weak
So I am technically back at square 1 again and trying to figure out a way to gain few ponies and torque...
The exhaust is designed by meself and its a combo of 3.9L grinded out double piped cast iron manifolds and downpipes with full 3 inch pipe all the way out, it sounds -r e a l l y- good but could actually lose some power I am told
Got a MSD Street Fire ignition box but made no difference from the original electronic ignition except it runs more even/smoother and starts very easy
I never put the Ignitor 2 on this engine
The 2 snorkels actually helps slightly at motorway speeds, it helps to keep speed up when going up hills, this difference is minimal though
I got an EFI in me basement and think it would be the way to go but its above my knowledge to install myself and the guys I've spoken to to do it for me wants 3 grand for the installation, can't justify that...
The Edelbrock/Weber path would be lovely but can't afford it and justify it for wife would be even harder... and some people on this forum seems to think it would make no difference anyway?
I do not know if its any idea to rebuild the 35 years old Strömbergs and to what difference that would make either?
The adjustment in the dashpots makes no difference then the idling rpm, the only thing I notice difference from is changing the ignition timing, other then that it seems to make no difference whatever I try
Truck is very heavy with all the camping gear, internal double bed, fridge/freezer, watertank, stoves, cooking gear, gigantic pullout drawer system, etc etc
Weighs in on 2450kg...
But we can stay off the grid for two weeks if needed
First we run out of is beer, then wine, then water...
Two inch lift and 35 inch rubber does not help with power ratio or fuel consumption either, I know, but it looks cool and keeps rev down on motorway heaps
Got a Eaton Detroit locker in the back as well
It also handles surprisingly well, got harder coils in the front and very beefy shocks all around, sits nice on 100 kph if the road is flat
But going uphill it's really bad... get down to 65kph some steep hills and that is not nice when everybody behind you is coming at a 100...
Soooo, any ideas guys???
Just wanted to hear your thoughts on the 3.5L power/torque raising possibilities
I got a ´85 110 County (pre Defender) since its age it is very much the same as the Stage 1 as it got a army 3.5L V8 and LT95 box and transfercase
But with discs in front and a few other modernities like roll down windows... (I use to own a `83 Army 109)
This truck I have turned into a overland vehicle with all amenities needed for -off the grid adventure-
The engine it got is unfortunately a 10G serial number block which means its a Stage 1 V8 8.13:1cr from `82
As far as I know its all original but recently rebuilt; Cam, heads, pistons, rings etc should all have been replaced with new original but I cant be 100% sure as I never spoken to the guy who did the job, so what was replaced and what was not is just a guess...
So its pretty weak to start with as being the army engine with 91 bhp, but without the air restrictors could be at 135 bhp, there are lots of different sayings about this so I do not know for sure
Raising the cr is impossible as well unless I put new pistons in, but for that rebuild cost I could easily drop a 3.9L in instead...
Engine itself was newly rebuilt for a 109 project (that got crashed) by some purist who replaced all with original same parts instead of taking the opportunity to put better gear in
I bought it for 600 bucks and put my inlet manifolds and Strömberg carbs on it, but I did not know that it was so weak, if I had known I would not have bought it
When I bought this truck it had a another stage 1 V8 in it, literally the same weak army engine
I did some experiments with that one and best effect I got was from a Pertronix Ignitor 2 unit that made it rev like a madman
I got no rev meter but it would not surprise me if it hit 7000-7500 rpm, it was craaaaaazy
It went really well with that setup
BUT...
One day on the beach it started piss out oil through the dipstick, LOTS of oil
So I think the maniac revving bent/damaged a hydraulic tappet for the pushrods so the pressure went bypass down into the crankcase and out through the dipstick
Instead of rebuilding the old motor I bought the truck with I replaced it with this 10G block without knowing it was just as weak
So I am technically back at square 1 again and trying to figure out a way to gain few ponies and torque...
The exhaust is designed by meself and its a combo of 3.9L grinded out double piped cast iron manifolds and downpipes with full 3 inch pipe all the way out, it sounds -r e a l l y- good but could actually lose some power I am told
Got a MSD Street Fire ignition box but made no difference from the original electronic ignition except it runs more even/smoother and starts very easy
I never put the Ignitor 2 on this engine
The 2 snorkels actually helps slightly at motorway speeds, it helps to keep speed up when going up hills, this difference is minimal though
I got an EFI in me basement and think it would be the way to go but its above my knowledge to install myself and the guys I've spoken to to do it for me wants 3 grand for the installation, can't justify that...
The Edelbrock/Weber path would be lovely but can't afford it and justify it for wife would be even harder... and some people on this forum seems to think it would make no difference anyway?
I do not know if its any idea to rebuild the 35 years old Strömbergs and to what difference that would make either?
The adjustment in the dashpots makes no difference then the idling rpm, the only thing I notice difference from is changing the ignition timing, other then that it seems to make no difference whatever I try
Truck is very heavy with all the camping gear, internal double bed, fridge/freezer, watertank, stoves, cooking gear, gigantic pullout drawer system, etc etc
Weighs in on 2450kg...
But we can stay off the grid for two weeks if needed
First we run out of is beer, then wine, then water...
Two inch lift and 35 inch rubber does not help with power ratio or fuel consumption either, I know, but it looks cool and keeps rev down on motorway heaps
Got a Eaton Detroit locker in the back as well
It also handles surprisingly well, got harder coils in the front and very beefy shocks all around, sits nice on 100 kph if the road is flat
But going uphill it's really bad... get down to 65kph some steep hills and that is not nice when everybody behind you is coming at a 100...
Soooo, any ideas guys???