exhausts

Ginga · Post by **Ginga** » Thu Mar 23, 2006 5:38 pm

I certainly hope they fit around that engine . . . they don't look like they hug as well as I thought they might. They also don't look to be too high quality either

Qaulity is functional and for the price im noyt bothered

Currently fitting mine. fighting with Right Hand Side at the mo. They do not fit easily at all.

The RHS (if you are sat in the drivers seat) is

1. Clashing with the spring hanger nut and bolt. Solution reverse the spring hanger so only bolt head is showng.

Its still very tight - Depending on the LHS installation I mate have to shuffle the engine and gearbox over.

Having said that at $135 I may break out the angle grinder and start welding.

2. the heat sheilds on the chassis and around engine mounts need to be removed and adjusted acordingly

3. The pipes run very close to the starter motor so a heat sheild is needed.

4. Of greater concern is a potential clash with the stearing box linkage arm. (the one that drops down from the fat searing box spline) Currently my landy is up on ramps so I can test this until its installed.
A probable solution would be.

4a. Rotate the arm back on the splines slightly. Although this may result in a clash with the footbox on full lock
4b. Reverse the arm (The spline may be tapered) as it currenly bend slightly toward engine I might have to use a rose joint as well
4c. Assuming tapered spline cut new splines in arm to suit.
4d. Heat up arm and bend it toward rhs wing away from exhaust

With the left hand side i shall just loosen the whole wing and tip it back just to get the header pipe in easily. The LHS seems to be a better fit, but ive yet to bolt them to the engine.

I have also bought reducers to go from the header pipe connection (supplied) to my current system.

Regards

Ginga

arcticrover · Post by **arcticrover** » Thu Apr 06, 2006 5:22 am

Ginga-

What luck?

Ginga · Post by **Ginga** » Thu Apr 06, 2006 10:32 am

Woe is me. To suffer the slings and arrows of outrageous fortune.

Actually not that bad (in a working on landrover takes twenty times longer than your avarage vehicle because all the nuts and bolts have corroded together).

Still up on the ramps (delayed by cold bad weather and the inconvenience of having to work). No exhaust system but both manifolds fitted and i fired the old girl up - Ahem - did somene say LOUD my ears are still ringing. hehe

Fitting run down
The RHS (if you are sat in the drivers seat)

The manifold outlet (joins to exhaust) terminates about 1-1.5cm (approx .5 inch) away from the chassis and clashes with the nut and bolt of the spring hanger.
Reversed spring hanger to gain more clearance.
The pipes were then touching the bolt head.
Heated up pipe and using ball of hammer caressed the side of the pipe (made a flat spot). (Years ago i pulverised a motorbike pipe with a half pounder and bent the whole thing and split it, oops, so took a more patient approach this time)
RHS not sits perfectly with approx 1cm clearance

LHS

IF you are precious about your body work remove the wing
I left the back of the wing connected to the bulkhead (nuts are awkward to get at) and swung it out of the way. Its bent the aluminium very slightly but im not bothered

Detailed description here
removed front grill
Removed 2 no bolts holding radiator support and front of wing
Removed inner wing section
removed bolt inside wing engine bay (low down, inline with back of engine on a large bracket)
Removed bolt at rear top of wing
Swing wing away from engine

Manifold goes in easy.
using same method as RHS.

Will be refitting exhaust minus middle muffler today

PS disconnect your Battery.

Ginga · Post by **Ginga** » Fri Apr 07, 2006 7:24 pm

arrgh. oh the frustration - the damn steering arm clashes with the RHS rear manifold pipe. as long as you dont want to turn left they are great.
I would reccomemnd that whilst the manifolds look the part (all curvy and scrumy) they do not fit properly, and thus should be avoided unless you want to spend a month of Sundays (make that 2 months) dicking about fitting them.

Could someone please do me a favour and measure the distance in cm that the drop down arm (from the steering box on the bulkhead) moves from the
1. central position (wheels straight ahead) to full lock left, and conversley
2 central position full lock right.

At the moment i have assumed they are the same and am considering solutions based on this assumption.

Regards
Ginga
Headerman exhaust guinea pig.

Ginga · Post by **Ginga** » Sun Apr 09, 2006 12:28 pm

Ok all done, mainfolds fitted.

I had to cut out , reshape and reweld the rear most RHS manifold pipe and move the stearing bosx 1 cm to the right (away from the engine)

Do not buy these manifolds they dont fit.

Regards

Ginga

Manfred · Post by **Manfred** » Sun Apr 09, 2006 2:03 pm

Sounds you had axactly the same problems as I had (posting on previouse page)

I agree with you, don't buy these manifolds if you don't want to work on them too much..

arcticrover · Post by **arcticrover** » Mon Apr 10, 2006 6:37 am

Ginga-

I feel partly responsible for your pain. I apologize. Do you have pictures of how you modified said tube? And what did you do to move the steering box a mere centimeter? I will plan on doing the welding/reshaping whilst the engine is still out, if possible.

Ginga · Post by **Ginga** » Mon Apr 10, 2006 6:58 pm

No need for apologies (thankyou for the empathy though

)
Its all part of the adventure.
No probs re pictures, i'll sort it tomorrow.

I moved the steering box because
1. the rear manifold pipe did not lend itslef to more extreme reworking without having access to a large pipe bender. thus ending up with a shoulder in the pipe which i was keen to avoid.
2. More extreme work to the pipe would have carried it even closer to the starter moter.
3. It was a good (and simple) way of controlling the clearance on the ball joint without having to re-engineer and modify the whole steering linkage.

Bear in mind this is for a RHD Landy
Inside the wing remove the aluminium housing around the steering box

The steering box is held by 4 big bolts on a chassis leg.
(This is important) Note their position as the upper bolts are different lengths. You may have to replace the shorter bolt to accomadate any movement as a result of shimming it out.

Remove the bolts but slot the bottom one back in to take the weight

In order to move it loosen 2 nut securing the steering column bracket to the bulkhead. (do not undo the bolts on the steering column itself)

This will enable you (once you have undone the stering box) to shift the column left or right (as one unit with the steering box) to the desired position.

You will now be left with a gap between the chassis leg and the steering box

As a guide I used 3 washers which were the same thickness as the steering box bolt washers of which you should now have six so you will need to buy some more

You may find the ball joint may touch the wing where its attached to the chassis leg - simply bend it slightly with a crow bar.

You may also have to slightly flat spot the exhaust (just incase the engine twists under load and jams the steering.

I also cut off the excess ball joint thread and nut (part of the castelated nut), and secured with a small spot weld (if it ever needs doing ill cut it off)

I have found it to be much quicker to rev, which combined with the removal of the centre silencer (muffler) sounds orgasmic - phwaor!

I have decided ..... now that i'm a super heroic epic exhaust fabricator, not to bother with a stainless system until mine rots through. whichs leaves more money for .........

Webber carbs anyone hehe

Regards

Ginga

arcticrover · Post by **arcticrover** » Mon Apr 10, 2006 8:50 pm

Many thanks for your exhaustive (ok that was low) explanation. If I go ahead with it, I will certainly rely on your experience to facilitate mine.

1toughV8 · Post by **1toughV8** » Thu Jun 08, 2006 2:28 am

I have a set of headers on my Stage1 but i am not sure where they are from, the previous owner had them installed. They are definitely a tight fit but i didn't have an issue with the RHS and the steering idler arm until about 2 weeks ago when i had a front end alignment and then i tightened the adjusting screw on the steering box(inside right hand inside wheel arch). This adjusting screw worked wonders for getting rid of all of the steering wheel play but somehow made the arm contact the RHS header in a full left lock turn. The contact is so minimal that i think all i have to do is grind off the little bit of bolt that is protruding from the nut like mentioned above. Just got some Thermo-tec exhaust wrap and i am in the process of wraping the full length of the headers while i have the xmsn out. Thanks for all of the info in this post. I will post of photo of the finished headers as this wrap makes them look pretty bad a$%!!!

Chris