Stage 1 V8

I have replaced the rear brake linings on my stage 1, also a right hand rear wheel cylinder, because the truck failed its WOF on the right rear brake not working 100%, before doing the work it had a good brake pedal, after bleeding I still have a spongy pedal, the brakes are working ok, I have bled the thing 100 times, and checked all the usual things, has any one had this problem, am I missing something, is there a trick to bleeding Landrover brakes. Maybe its me!
any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks Pete C.

Have you tried wedging a piece of wood on the brake pedal so that it is pressurising the system and then leaving it overnight, bleeding it the following day, without taking the pressure off. This has worked for me before on other vehicles, so may be worth a try.

Pressure bleeder on the nipple and try bleeding them backwards.

Yes, but getting the gear to push the pressure in the opposite direction is expensive. May be cheaper to use Midas.

Have you checked that the pipes are in good nick? The flexi pipes may need replacing. I assume you replaced all the brake fluid, and you did bleed all the wheels huh? (Sorry, silly question I know but it needs to be asked).

Also, there are no leaks in the master or slaves, right?

Presuming everything is fitted correctly, you still have air in the system.

Clamp all three flex lines and pedal should be rock hard. If not you have air in master.
If rock hard, release one clamp at a time until you work out which line has the problem.

did you fit the rear shoes the correct way around,
there handed and if you get it wrong you cant get a good pedal

Hi every one,
Thanks for all the tips, pressure bleeding is out for the present, have not got the dollars, have spent my Sunday going over the pipes, hoses and checking the master cylinder etc, all seems ok, I have bled all four wheels, not a silly question though, oh and yes all new fluid, have had my very understanding wife doing the pedal and have gone through the bleeding process again, I am sure the shoes are on the right way round, they are rebonded I just swaped them at BJs, thats our local Landrover specialist 2nd hand and new parts available! The wheel cylinder is new, tried clamping the hoses which has given the best result got some significant air out of the right rear line, pedal is much better but is still a bit strange, when going from cold I get about half pedal, one pump it is up and stays up(this is with the engine running) if I reverse and apply the brakes the pedal goes back down, go forward it comes back up, I am thinking in circles now, oh and it is siting with pressure on the pedal for to night.
Thanks again Pete C.

You have probably introduced air into the other circuit. You may also need to remove the bias valve switch in order to let the shuttle valve reset.

Hi,

I had the same Probleme with my Serie3 2,25ltr Petrol. I took the brake drums of and then put a bar clamp on the break shoes, to pull them together. So there was no space for air in the wheel cylinders. Then I bled the system, and the air had gone. The bar clamp was always on the wheel cylinder I was just bleeding.

good luck

Horst

if the problem is dependant on the direction its not hydraulic its mechanical

It's a while since I've done back brakes but if I recall correctly the pull off spring should be between one (leading) shoe and the back plate and not between both shoes. Might be worth checking ...

David

yes thats correct, the spring does go between leading shoe and backplate

Thanks again everone for the great advice,
I can not spend all my time working on my 109, because my work takes me away, and I can not always access the site, any way I have got to the bottom of the problem, and it was mechanical!, The bonded shoes are swaped, you pick up the shoes which are from an other rover and give the supplier your worn out shoes to be relined, all sounds ok, but, the shoes them selves can be worn, I assumed that they would be checked before re bonding, not so, the studs on the shoes which match to the adjusters were worn flat on 3 of the bonded shoes, meaning correct ajustment was impossible, I have gone back and got my original shoes and was told to keep the re bonded ones, and got my money back! I have zapped the re bonded shoes studs with the mig welder and they now work fine, I can get my old shoes re done if I need to in the future, maybe this will help some one with the same problem in the future.
Thanks again Pete C.