Its engine swap time

jonnyboy · Post by **jonnyboy** » Fri Feb 10, 2006 9:33 am

Last weekend I picked up an engine out of a range rover to replace the slightly asthmatic one currently in my stage 1. The engine is an EFI but I have a set of SU's on a manifold that I will be using.

Anyone got any advice before I start?

I will post a few piccies of the proccess if people are interested.

Jon

Basil · Post by **Basil** » Fri Feb 10, 2006 10:50 am

You will find that your dizzy set up will be different, ie the efi being electronic so you will need to either wire it up or change it for the dizzy in your old engine, other than that you should have no bother, i have a 3.9 out of a disco that i put on twin su's and she run.s a treat.

Basil

Andy Dawe · Post by **Andy Dawe** » Fri Feb 10, 2006 9:06 pm

Give us a bit more info on the 3.9 conversion. ie. mpg performance etc etc very tempted. I presume it benefits from a gearing change.[/quote]

jonnyboy · Post by **jonnyboy** » Sun Feb 12, 2006 6:52 pm

Its started.

Heres whats coming out:

Heres whats going in:

The only problem is the 2 locations in the pictures are 50 miles appart

arcticrover · Post by **arcticrover** » Sun Feb 12, 2006 8:01 pm

Does that RR engine have power steering and A/C compressor? That would be nice, though running the plumbing wouldn't be so much fun! Godd thing I don't need A/C up here. My last post in Oklahoma was 100 degree summers . . . we have at most 80 degree summers here. Winters are a little rough, though!

jonnyboy · Post by **jonnyboy** » Sun Feb 12, 2006 8:19 pm

Its got a power steering pump which may be an issue as I dont intend on using it and the pulleys are all set up for it. I may be fitting a york aircon pump I have for an on board air setup.

I am going to strip the engine somewhat to replace the timing chain and give it a good clean.

Jon

arcticrover · Post by **arcticrover** » Mon Feb 13, 2006 2:18 am

Take notes! Mine will be coming apart very soon. I removed my carbs today and found it a little annoying to have had to remove the rocker covers to get to one of the four bolts holding the carbs to the manifold. Otherwise, pretty easy removal.

primsil · Post by **primsil** » Mon Feb 13, 2006 10:15 am

I cant wait to start my rebuild. Still collecting parts at present. Mine are in several locations about 300km apart. So far I have a disco ZF auto and powersteer, rr front hubs for disc brakes, air con compressor for air, P76 4.4 engine, 0.5 mm oversize pistons, Buick 300 alloy heads, oversize valves, new rocker asssemblies, High pressure high volume oil pump kit. Lots of other new bits and pieces worth replacing. And several sheets of various thicknesses of alloy and checkerplate. Still need to decide which paras to buy, rocky mountain are easiest to get over here but I am not sure that they are the ones I want.

arcticrover · Post by **arcticrover** » Tue Feb 14, 2006 12:17 am

Is RR hubs the only major part I need for discs? Is that all around or just up front? Is it a straight replacement? Forgive me, the only drum to disc conversion I have done was taking the rear control/trailing arms w/ discs from a honda integra and putting them on a honda civic. . .

primsil · Post by **primsil** » Tue Feb 14, 2006 3:36 am

I have not stripped both sets yet, I anticipate some machine work will be required, I intend to use a new pair of stage1 swivel balls on the stage1 axle housing with RR swivel hubs. I expect to have to machine the balls to use RR swivel bearings and pins, hopefully using the stage 1 inner axles. Hope to start work on these soon as I am picking up the axles from storage next weekend. Will let you know step by step if it works out as planned.

Basil · Post by **Basil** » Tue Feb 14, 2006 7:13 pm

R.E the 3.9 conversion, I put mine on twin SU's as they are more tuneable than stromberg's, I had already uprated the transfer box using the gear's from a rangie gearbox, well worth it and you need them to get the best of the 3.9 engine, mpg don't notice any difference from the 3.5 to be honest unless i drive it hard.

Now the Best bit, the performance, it's like putting superman's pant's on it, the bloody thing flies, it will go off the clock, you have to be careful coz it will spin it's wheel's and that's with BFG mud terrains it's Awsome best thing i have ever done.

But now the bad bit, the landy enginnear's put restricter's in the carb's coz they was worried about the brake's, well they really struggle with the 3.9, if someone pulls out in front of you and youre giving it some in third you will not stop it accelerates like a rocket but brakes like an oil tanker so very intrested to see how primsil's disc brake mod turn's out coz i relly need to update that department.

Basil

arcticrover · Post by **arcticrover** » Tue Feb 14, 2006 7:27 pm

I just took apart my stromberg carbs and I see no restrictor plates at all. I guess someone else already got to them. I am using WD40 to scrub the major grime off of everything. I got an aluminum-safe industrial degreaser to do some hot soaking, but I am curious what to use to polish the tops? I have a dremel with the polishing fittings, but some polishes aren't safe (too abrasive?) for aluminum . . . any thoughts?

Basil · Post by **Basil** » Tue Feb 14, 2006 7:51 pm

I use solvol autosol mate, brill for alloy discovered it in my motorbike day's

jonnyboy · Post by **jonnyboy** » Tue Feb 14, 2006 7:58 pm

I think the restrictors are in the manifold not the carbs. Must have a look in mine when I get the engine out.

Jon

primsil · Post by **primsil** » Tue Feb 14, 2006 8:09 pm

the restrictors are in the manifold. Very obvious when you remove the carbs if they are there, they only have two small holes. they are supposed to just pull out, use a spring clip inside but take a bit of pulling.