Hi,
can someone tell how I can get more power from my engine, without fitting EFI?
I have ristrictors out and two SU`s fitted. The rest of the engine is original. Does it make sense to install an other camshaft? If so, what kind of camshaft would be the best? I want to have more torque, for example when running up a steep highway-hill or so.
Any ideas?
regards
Horst
More Power
there are several things you can do
1- camshaft profile ...there are various available to give increased torque, more power etc
2-modified cylinder heads - i believe later ones (3.9?) had bigger valves which will help
also gas flowing and porting work will substantial help
freeing up thew exhaust will help ...the standard one is rubbish - tubular manifolds and better pipes will help - maybe loose one of the silencers if it doesn't make it to noisy
1- camshaft profile ...there are various available to give increased torque, more power etc
2-modified cylinder heads - i believe later ones (3.9?) had bigger valves which will help
also gas flowing and porting work will substantial help
freeing up thew exhaust will help ...the standard one is rubbish - tubular manifolds and better pipes will help - maybe loose one of the silencers if it doesn't make it to noisy
You probably need to refine what you are after. At present you are probably getting optimum torque, with reliability and driveability. It sounds more like you are chasing mid to high range responsiveness.
The SU's don't really change anything, except providing a better choice of needles. Which is something that you may need to explore.
Cam changes are always compromises, response/economy/smoothness/idle/starting......
All of this still feeds through the same drive line ratios. This is where other options arise.
Exhaust flow is always worth exploring, except that there is nothing off the shelf for us. I now avoid exhaust shops like swine flu. I hate the problems they cause and you have as much chance finding a capable fitter as you do of becoming Prime Minister.
The standard rear box is straight through and of reasonable diameter, with sensible flange joints. The first box is the problem. An EXACT copy, including new joints (NOT YOUR OLD ONES RECYCLED) with a straight through silencer is a viable option.
The SU's don't really change anything, except providing a better choice of needles. Which is something that you may need to explore.
Cam changes are always compromises, response/economy/smoothness/idle/starting......
All of this still feeds through the same drive line ratios. This is where other options arise.
Exhaust flow is always worth exploring, except that there is nothing off the shelf for us. I now avoid exhaust shops like swine flu. I hate the problems they cause and you have as much chance finding a capable fitter as you do of becoming Prime Minister.
The standard rear box is straight through and of reasonable diameter, with sensible flange joints. The first box is the problem. An EXACT copy, including new joints (NOT YOUR OLD ONES RECYCLED) with a straight through silencer is a viable option.
Hi,
thank`s for the answers. I think I´ll modify the middle silencer at first. ´seems to be the easyest and cheapest version.
Probably I`ll weld a new silencer which will look the same as the middle one, but with nothing in it. So, maybe the car gets a bit louder, but breathing will becomne easyier for the engine.
I will tell you here later.
regards
Horst
thank`s for the answers. I think I´ll modify the middle silencer at first. ´seems to be the easyest and cheapest version.
Probably I`ll weld a new silencer which will look the same as the middle one, but with nothing in it. So, maybe the car gets a bit louder, but breathing will becomne easyier for the engine.
I will tell you here later.
regards
Horst
-
gary_in_nz
- Posts: 138
- Joined: Thu Jan 04, 2007 7:57 am
- Location: Gisborne, New Zealand
- Contact:
i removed the first silencer and put a straight pipe in its place. its very (very, very) loud but sounds awesome!!! does give it a little bit more but so much power is lost in the drive train that you would end up spending quite a lot for mediocre gains.
just an example of what i noticed when i destroyed my front half shafts and had to drive home 100kms with just the rear wheels driving (centre lock on) was how responsive it became, getting up to speeds quicker and easier steering, all because it didn't have to drive 2 extra wheels.
just an example of what i noticed when i destroyed my front half shafts and had to drive home 100kms with just the rear wheels driving (centre lock on) was how responsive it became, getting up to speeds quicker and easier steering, all because it didn't have to drive 2 extra wheels.
"If it ain't v8, take it back"
you could also look at improved carbs (Su's and strombergs...dont think theres much in it between them) but there are others ...edelbrok , webber etc which will help
the exhaust manifolds are horrible on the V8 ....some tubular ones would be a bit help and can be got off the shelf (dont know about price)
higher compression ratio engine (the stage 1 is very low 8.13:1 the V8 got to over 10:1 iirc in some cars -youd lose the ability to run on low grade fuel though - does this matter to you? )
is your valve train all ok ...they wear very rapidly sorting this will be a big help (my engine ran with over 20 degrees slack in the cam chain...very bad for power and efficiency)
there isnt much you can do with the transmission to reduce lost power - tyres will help alot (if your running off road tyres on the road it costs you alot of fuel and performance over road tyres)
the exhaust manifolds are horrible on the V8 ....some tubular ones would be a bit help and can be got off the shelf (dont know about price)
higher compression ratio engine (the stage 1 is very low 8.13:1 the V8 got to over 10:1 iirc in some cars -youd lose the ability to run on low grade fuel though - does this matter to you? )
is your valve train all ok ...they wear very rapidly sorting this will be a big help (my engine ran with over 20 degrees slack in the cam chain...very bad for power and efficiency)
there isnt much you can do with the transmission to reduce lost power - tyres will help alot (if your running off road tyres on the road it costs you alot of fuel and performance over road tyres)
Agree with djam.
Getting more power on a good engine means using more petrol to generate it, but if the rest of the engine is tired then it's a waste of time and money. The engine is reasonably powered from new, but it is old so o improve its power output now means replacing and improving worn parts.
That can turn into a large money pit!!
If you are serious about it, you can save a lot of effort and time by replacing the engine with something that delivers what you want from the outset, rather than chasing a chimera.
Getting more power on a good engine means using more petrol to generate it, but if the rest of the engine is tired then it's a waste of time and money. The engine is reasonably powered from new, but it is old so o improve its power output now means replacing and improving worn parts.
That can turn into a large money pit!!
If you are serious about it, you can save a lot of effort and time by replacing the engine with something that delivers what you want from the outset, rather than chasing a chimera.
Alan
1983 ex-army FFR 109 Stage 1
2005 Disco 2 HSE TD5
1983 ex-army FFR 109 Stage 1
2005 Disco 2 HSE TD5