propshaft joints

mvdlans · Post by **mvdlans** » Wed May 06, 2009 12:34 pm

Hy there,

Since I have a little judder in the drive line I expected the universal joints to be worn. I took both axles underneath the vehicle for inspection. The joints feel good, no play at all but on the rear axle the propshafts aren't lined up. This could cause the judder or not? I could only find one allignment mark on the axle.... So what's the correct allignment of the axle? (The front axle propshafts are alligned).

Another question, why aren't there grease nipples on the double uv-joint on the front axle? Are they greased for life? And there are no circlips on these joints, the bearing shell seems to be just a little bit bigger than on the other joints.

I'm thinking of getting these joints apart for greasing. Bad idea or a good one?

Thx,

Michiel

Larosto · Post by **Larosto** » Wed May 06, 2009 7:34 pm

Hi,

I think the reason for the judder could be the backlash in the splines of the rear propshaft. Mine does the same. I think if you want to correct it, you need a new propshaft.

Horst

5988 · Post by **5988** » Wed May 06, 2009 9:02 pm

mvdlans wrote:Hy there,

I'm thinking of getting these joints apart for greasing. Bad idea or a good one?

Thx,

Michiel

bad...i think from briefly reading the manual a special tool is needed to re-assemble them, so unless you have one or know someone with one id leave it alone....not sure on the grase niples will heck mine at the weekend but though it had some

mvdlans · Post by **mvdlans** » Wed May 06, 2009 9:54 pm

The splines are reasonable ok. I'm sure the props where misaligned front and rear now. I just checked every manual and parts book.

Mm, 5988 I could't find any description of the double joint in my book but if I need a special tool I will leave it. Got more important restorations to do. Would be kind if you would check your's for grease nipples.

Thx,

Michiel

5988 · Post by **5988** » Wed May 06, 2009 10:17 pm

from the stage 1 suppliment

The joints are retained by plastic circlips which cannot be removed- they mut be sheared
the joints cannot be re-fitted , they must be replaced-the new ones will be held with circlips as normal

full infor see pg 85 oof manual - http://www.landroverv8.com/manuals/seri ... lement.pdf

stirlsilver · Post by **stirlsilver** » Wed May 06, 2009 10:53 pm

Have you confirmed that the vibration is actually at output shaft rpm and not final drive RPM? a couple of wheels out of balance and you can get a higher vibration frequency although it should change as you go around corners.

If you are confident that it is output shaft RPM, take either the front or rear drive shaft off and take the car for a drive with the difflock on. Then swap the shafts and drive it again use what you feel from the test runs to determine which shaft it is.

I normally have issues with the double cardan joint on the front shaft so make sure you check that one properly, wear on the locating pin between the universals on the double cardan can produce vibration. It's either that or you simply lost the balancing weights off the shafts and need to send them in to get re balanced.

map1275 · Post by **map1275** » Thu May 07, 2009 7:33 am

Define judder?

Backlash with take-up, or vibration in accordance with RPM.

The actual brand of universal joint will determine whether it has nipples or not. As many clients are tight-fisted, they buy what is cheapest. Whereas the very few always specify 'must have grease nipples'.

mvdlans · Post by **mvdlans** » Thu May 07, 2009 9:36 am

Thx Guys,

The judder starts at around 60 km/h. First I expected the wheels so I rebalanced them but unfortunatly the problem stayed.

Since I'm sure now that the propshafts were misaligned I'm sure the problem is gone after I've refitted the propshafts in the right way.

Going to change the single uv-joints anyway cause they're already on the working bench. The double one seems still ok so I let them be.

Greetz,

Michiel

map1275 · Post by **map1275** » Thu May 07, 2009 10:00 am

There are no factory witness marks for phasing of the joints. From memory the front and rear shafts on a Stage One are in the traditional arrangement. Whereas the front of 110's is about 45 degrees out to compensate for their angle.

bigshelf · Post by **bigshelf** » Fri May 15, 2009 1:01 am

I just recently put new universals in my ex-army stage one (front shaft, double joint only - the single joint was fine).

Sometimes it can be a bit of a trick to feel for slack rollers in the universals of the double joint as it is spring loaded by the ball joint. One of my universals was rooted big time - the rollers had turned into fine gravel. The whole thing came to my attention as a repetitive “squeek-squeek-squeek” relative to front prop shaft revs. Replaced with greaseble option by Spicers at $40Nz each. I recommend these as you can just whack the grease gun on them after a recent river crossing and know they will be sweet!

The output spline on the transfer case can sometimes develop a bit of slop too.

A few notes - when removing old UJ's, don't worry about breaking the clips - you will get new ones with the replacement UJ's. Also, the new bearings can simply be pressed in with a vice (I used the old mans hydraulic press). Fill the cups with a dollup of grease and make sure the UJ is encapsulated/aligned with/by rollers! And don't forget to grease the central ball joint. This should snap in with a nice pop when reassembled.

The whole job resulted in no more squeeking, less backlash when releasing clutch and noticeably smoother power delivery. Will be greasing regularly from now on!

Stage 1 V8

propshaft joints

propshaft joints

Re: propshaft joints