Seeking instructions for transfer gear swap

[firemanshort]

I have a Range Rover gear box in the floor of my garage that I have used for parts.

I think I want to remove the transfer gears from the Rangie gear box and place in my Stage one to step up the gears.

I have searched the forum and seen the project described in hi-level terms (ie. Swap the itermediate shaft gears and the ones on the center diff) but nothing close to a step by step.

I do not have a repair manual for the LT95, either.

I have pulled the xfer case bottom cover plate from my rangie box in the floor of the garage. I see the two gear sets. I do not see an easy way to remove the gears / gear shafts, though.

Do I have to remove the rear parking brake drum and rear output assembly to get these shafts out?

Has anyone done this before?

Instructions and help or pointed direcitons to an online LT95 manual would all be appreciated......

[map1275]

Gearbox is covered the standard shop manual, after clutch and engine.

Yes, you have to pull everything apart. Both rear plates have to come off, plus the lower plate and the front t/case plate as well. It's all nut and bolt and very straightforward. This can be done in car.

I would be reading the appropriate parts list for the RR box to see what it contains before you go any further. Then compare this with the Land-Rover parts list.

[5988]

Post up some pics when you do it,
Its on my list to do as well

[noexitroad]

same as me....

[5988]

did you get anywhere with this?

If you did, what ratios did you use, and how do you find them

Im thinking the 1.113 RR gearing would be best (3000Rpm @70 in top, around 2000Rpm @50 in top), would be interesting what your using and how you find it
Tempted by the OD RR transfer box but that's probably a bit to high (2500Rpm @70 in top)

[firemanshort]

Funny you shoudl post this on this weekend.

I tore into the donor tranmission to "practice" the swap. I learned how the transfer gear box worked and identified exactly what parts needed to be swapped. I took a few photos along the way.

Maybe, if I get to it today, I will tear into the actual truck and start the real swap. Once I am done with that (who knows when) I will post up a set of step by step instructions with a few photos.

BTW - the gears I will be going to are the tallest RR gears - the 1:0.9 ratio. I think I would have prefered the 1:1.13 like mentioned above. That seems to be the internet favourite. Nevertheless - I will go with the gears I have and see what happens in the end.

[5988]

Funny you shoudl post this on this weekend.


see what happens in the end.

with a big enough engine you will have a very fast Stage 1

[firemanshort]

Here is a preview of the bench / spare gear box.

The first photo is of the transfer case with the main bottom plate missing. You can see from left to right - the set of gears that lead to the front and rear output shafts (also the center diff), the center shaft is the idler shaft, and the farthest right shaft is the output from the 4 speed gear box. The main drive gear has already been removed from the farthest right shaft.



After you take off a bunch of the stuff from the rear of the transfer case part of the gear box - you remove these two shafts and gears (more or less).



This picture shows the far left and the center set of gears removed. Since the shafts are standing vertical, the gears slipped down the idler shaft and do not sit in the right place compared to the output shaft. But, I think you get the idea.

From this point, you take the top gear off each stack and swap it out with the newer set of gears. (The top gears are hi range, the low gears are low range and the middle is the drive from the transmission)

I will put all of this together in a more step - by - step process in a day or so. I am mid swap on the Stage One as I type (Just came in for a sandwich).

[5988]

looks pretty much similar to the process of dismantling the standard series 4 speed's transfer box then

might have been easier to do before I fitted the box though .. then again for about 10 bolts I could take it out again

[noexitroad]

i have just done mine but it has got a few issues. i am going to pull it back to bits this weekend. i think what has happened is i have not pulled the gearbox shaft towards me when putting the circlip back on so there is a small amount of play, meaning if i pull the gearlever back in 2nd gear once engaged it makes a graunching sound.....and is hard to engage 1st gear. it is also quite clunky when going thru the gears. i have been told this may be because the replacement gear set has quite a bit of free play on the shaft compared to the old set, so may have to add some spacers along the shaft. i have taken some pix so will try and upload once i am done. it has definitely geared up the landy tho......the speedo is not reading right so i will follow someone and get an idea but it feels like about 10 kph more than the speedo is reading, just what i was hoping for......

[firemanshort]

I finished this over the weekend and I am fairly pleased with the results.

I went from the stock Stage One gear ratio of 1:1.3 to the highest Range Rover gear ration of 1:0.9.

The difference is very noticable. My engine is pretty strong with ported heads and a better cam installed. Unladen, the truck pulls away and runs through the gears with ease. I shift into 4 around 50 mph now and the motor barely runs over an idle. (Unfortunately, I do not have a tachometer on my truck.) I have not driven it at highways speeds but I have no reason to think that it will not perform well.

I suspect that with a heavy load on the truck, I may have some slight bogging issues. If I did not have a very strong engine, I may be in trouble.

I think the conventional wisdom on the internet for swapping to the 1:1.113 ratio is probably very wise.

(see this web page to determine what ratio gear set you may have -
http://www.vislandrovers.nl/extra/revis ... nel.php#v7 )


I would like to have a better test result data set to give you guys but.... on my test drive, I experienced a heater hose failure and had to park the truck again. The joys of Land Rover ownership.

[noexitroad]

good effort there mate, your step by step is awesome. the only thing i did not do was disconnect the speedo. it is a pity i didnt get your link to that website to figure out which gear ratio i ended up with. i replaced all of the gears in my transfer case. it is a job that can be done with limited knowledge but i had the use of my friends pit which was great as it was a 2 person job to replace the whole thing, one to push the shaft and the other to align and wriggle the gears. a third person is handy to swear for the other 2 when it doesn't line up! (and pass the beers into the pit). definitely worthwhile doing though, the noise level should drop to 100db in the cab when cruising the highway?

[firemanshort]

I have put about 100 - 150 miles on the truck with the new gear set installed.

I still reinforce the notion that the 1:0.9 gearset I installed is probably a bit too high for a normal truck. I scoot along easily unladen - but get bogged down every so slightly on hills. Part of my problem is that I drive in a city mix. Cruising around between 30-50mph used to be an easy 3rd or 4th gear choice. Now, those speeds put me too fast for 2nd gear but too slow for 4th gear. I end up cruising around at the top rpm band of 3rd gear - if that makes any sense.

This is not really a bad thing, I guess. I am stilling trying to re-learn all of the new shift points.

I have gotten the truck up to 60 - 65 mph a few times (traffic near Washington DC sucks). OMG is it a lot quieter without the engine screaming at near peak RPMs. Now I realize that my tires are really noisy - I also think I hear my brake shoes rubbing loudly - like maybe they may be near the end of thier pad life. Got to take look this weekend.

I hope to take some longer trips on some faster roads in the next few weeks. That should give me a better useage report for the top end performance. I predict that when I get to 65 to 75 mph, I will enter into more of the power band of the motor and run along nicely in top gear.

Previously, I pulled a friends small camping trailer. It was barely noticeable with the factory low gears. I am guessing that with the much taller gears, I will start to notice any load or trailer.

Again, I have a 2 door model with a soft top - probably the lightest configuration. If you drive a 4 door with a trailer or roof rack - you may be in trouble if you choose the highest gear set.

[5988]

Interesting article and advice re the gearing
Think ill stick with the next ones down then, until the engine gets tweaked
any chance you could email me a copy - its rather hard to read on here

[firemanshort]

So I have put another 150 miles or so on the truck.

I checked the fuel economy (we use the word economy loosely when speaking of Land Rovers - I know). I am still getting 14mpg (US gallons) during city driving. I guess you can not complain about that. I was getting that before the gear swap, too.

I took the opportunity tonight to run an errand towing a trailer. We need to move these John Deere Gators around and I hooked one up to the Stage One and towed it about 15 miles or so.



The John Deere weighs about 2,000 pounds. The trailer weighs about 1,000 pounds. The new gears pulled this ok. It took a little longer to get up to speed but I was able to run with traffic and it did all right.

I had pulled a 1500 pound camper trailer with the old gear set a few times and it pulled a lot easier. But it is a real unfair comparison since the weights do not match.