Groeten
Steven
ps Ken jij toevallig nog geen interesante nederlands tallige landrover forums.
Oil pressure
I had a right fit while trying to fit an aftermarket Oil pressure gauge to mine.... I once almost ran out of oil on a long journey (hence my post on thermostats) and didn't realize. So I bought this oil pressure clock from eBay for a few quid and then had a tough time finding an adapter to get the sender to screw into the oil filter housing. I went to Pirtek in Reading in the end and they waved their magic wand and came up with some weird adapters...
Same for a new petrol pump I bough to replace the old difragm one. They only do the solid state one now but the outlets point upwards and downwards instead of sideways... pain in the proverbial.
So, yes. My sender is a piece of crap as well, I recon I need to get a decent one like a VDO (German). When cold, my engine idles at around 25PSI. Then as you accelerate it goes up to about 50 something. When it gets warm oil pressure drops to about 10-15PSI idel and 30 high revs. I don't know how accurate this blimmin clock is tho.
At least its shows me that the engine is still pumping blood....
Same for a new petrol pump I bough to replace the old difragm one. They only do the solid state one now but the outlets point upwards and downwards instead of sideways... pain in the proverbial.
So, yes. My sender is a piece of crap as well, I recon I need to get a decent one like a VDO (German). When cold, my engine idles at around 25PSI. Then as you accelerate it goes up to about 50 something. When it gets warm oil pressure drops to about 10-15PSI idel and 30 high revs. I don't know how accurate this blimmin clock is tho.
At least its shows me that the engine is still pumping blood....
BTW guys, Vehicle Wiring products do an electric Oil press gauge. I've no idea what brand it is or whether it is any good, but it 'looks' solid enough. Certainly better than what I've got.
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.co.u ... auges.html
They also do adapters, cables, switches, fuse boxes blah blah blah.... you'll be in heaven!!
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.co.u ... auges.html
They also do adapters, cables, switches, fuse boxes blah blah blah.... you'll be in heaven!!
I concur with jonnyboy - Low pressure, High volume.jonnyboy wrote:One thing to watch out for is that the piston can stick in the cylinder. A higher pressure spring might cause that problem to get worse. I have heard of a using a "tadpole" valve in race V8's that stops this problem happening.
The green bible states that, when warm and at 2400 rpm, the pressure should be 30 to 40 psi. That's about 2 to 2.5 Bar. The rover V8 has a low pressure high volume lubrication system and I have my doubts about the benefits of increasing the pressure. If you hitting 4 Bar then that's aprox 60 Psi.
High pressure should be avoided as stated in "How to Power Tune Rover V8 Engines for Road and Track By Des Hammill" I have pasted a A free to view link below
The normal engine oil pressure is 30lbf/ins2 at 2400 r.p.m. On a standard engine do not attempt to increase this pressure by fitting a stronger pressure relief valve spring.
My understanding is that if you do, then the increased oil pressure will cause the oil in the tappets to froth at a lower engine speed, restricting engine performance. - Applies to standard engines.
Race engines with heavily modified oil paths and seals etc as well as remote oil filters, coolers and/or pumps benefit from higher pressures as they have been modified with this in mind.
steven 90 refered to a "Tadpole"
Fitting a Tadpole type valve with a standard spring is however recommended as this allows more volume of oil to circulate through the system at the standard pressure.
An odd characteristic of the tadpole valve is that the oil pressure will drop on initial opening about 500 rpm before building back up again. So don't panic
Further reading can be found at
How to Power Tune Rover V8 Engines for Road and Track By Des Hammill
http://books.google.co.uk/books?id=gmSa ... pole+valve
http://www.rover-v8.nl/v8web/v802.html
Pump overhaul kits off ebay are here
http://stores.ebay.co.uk/THE-ROVER-V8-E ... idZ2QQtZkm
I believe the chaps name is Dave and is happy to answer questions.
Having had my own oil pressure problems recently, the tadpole was the solution to a sticky valve.
For the benefit of the forum I have attempted to be factual and researched what I have been told from multiple sources.
If however, I am wrong on any of this information then please let me, and the forum know - I am always prepared to be enlightened
Regards
Ginga
Theres always a way !
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firemanshort
- Posts: 378
- Joined: Fri Feb 10, 2006 2:42 pm
- Location: Loudoun County, VA - near Wash DC
Smiths Gauge
Does anyone know how the factory smiths gauge is supposed to be wired?
How do you test the sender unit on the oil filter housing to see if it is working (I am looking for any needle movement - we will work on accuracy later)?
How do you test the sender unit on the oil filter housing to see if it is working (I am looking for any needle movement - we will work on accuracy later)?
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Firemanshort
Virginia, USA
Firemanshort
Virginia, USA
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harry potter
- Posts: 262
- Joined: Thu Mar 15, 2007 10:53 pm
- Location: Leamington Spa
hi
l am having similar problems with my engine
today l packed the pump with vasaline and put all back together. fired the engine up
low presure light on the dash lit up but went off as soon as the engine started.
the oil presure gauge on the dash wont move - is there easy way of checking the gauge works.
also l have 3 conections to the pump but only two wires conected to the pump. (it was like this when l got the car)
l thought l would give it a warm up to see if the gauge would budge - it didnt. the oil filter gets hot so l am sure oil is getting into the filter.
after stopping the engine after a few minutes of running and no budge on the pressure gauge, l looked in the top of the engine oil filler tube. the rocker shaft and spring looks dry as if no oil is getting pumped arround.
how can l check to make sure that the oil is getting up to the rockers.
l am at a wits end trying to sort this car out
cheers
l am having similar problems with my engine
today l packed the pump with vasaline and put all back together. fired the engine up
low presure light on the dash lit up but went off as soon as the engine started.
the oil presure gauge on the dash wont move - is there easy way of checking the gauge works.
also l have 3 conections to the pump but only two wires conected to the pump. (it was like this when l got the car)
l thought l would give it a warm up to see if the gauge would budge - it didnt. the oil filter gets hot so l am sure oil is getting into the filter.
after stopping the engine after a few minutes of running and no budge on the pressure gauge, l looked in the top of the engine oil filler tube. the rocker shaft and spring looks dry as if no oil is getting pumped arround.
how can l check to make sure that the oil is getting up to the rockers.
l am at a wits end trying to sort this car out
cheers
checking if oil is getting to the rockers should eb easy...you will see it
have you or a po had them in bits)
if assembled the wrong way arround the rockers dont get oil-oilways dont line up
testing the gauge - feed it with 12v and see if it reads max (assuming it is a 12v gauge and not fed from a voltage regulator-in which case 12v directly will proably break it)
not sure how the sender works...would guess it varies resistance with pressure - so try measuring resistance as you run and speed up the engine
have you or a po had them in bits)
if assembled the wrong way arround the rockers dont get oil-oilways dont line up
testing the gauge - feed it with 12v and see if it reads max (assuming it is a 12v gauge and not fed from a voltage regulator-in which case 12v directly will proably break it)
not sure how the sender works...would guess it varies resistance with pressure - so try measuring resistance as you run and speed up the engine