Safarisnorkel,
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- Posts: 37
- Joined: Mon Jan 19, 2009 4:36 am
- Location: New Zealand
Safarisnorkel,
Hi has anyone tried to fit the 110 counrty v8 snorkel to the stage one, if so what it an easy job, [ are the 110 wings the same run as the stage one]
Link below to see the run
http://www.safarisnorkel.com/docs/snork ... rover.html
Thanks
Dave
Link below to see the run
http://www.safarisnorkel.com/docs/snork ... rover.html
Thanks
Dave
One Ten outer winds will interchange but are not the same. They are taller in the arch in order to accommodate the plastic extension.
The snorkel kit you have referenced looks to be intended for the Defender wing, not 110.
If you are going to chop up your existing wing then you may as well follow the Land-Rover Ser III service notes for this express purpose. The only problem occurs if you are RHD with servo. As the servo now gets in the way.
The snorkel kit you have referenced looks to be intended for the Defender wing, not 110.
If you are going to chop up your existing wing then you may as well follow the Land-Rover Ser III service notes for this express purpose. The only problem occurs if you are RHD with servo. As the servo now gets in the way.
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- Posts: 37
- Joined: Mon Jan 19, 2009 4:36 am
- Location: New Zealand
Hi map1275
This link shuld take u to the unit I am looking at, it is list as the 110 county V8
http://www.safarisnorkel.com/guides/LAN ... F_full.gif
This link shuld take u to the unit I am looking at, it is list as the 110 county V8
http://www.safarisnorkel.com/guides/LAN ... F_full.gif
Your link = Defender.
Standard hole in side of wing. (Whatever the word is for a four sided hole that isn't square).
Back to my original answer; If you are going to chop up your existing wing then you may as well follow the Land-Rover Ser III service notes for this express purpose. The only problem occurs if you are RHD with servo. As the servo now gets in the way.
Standard hole in side of wing. (Whatever the word is for a four sided hole that isn't square).
Back to my original answer; If you are going to chop up your existing wing then you may as well follow the Land-Rover Ser III service notes for this express purpose. The only problem occurs if you are RHD with servo. As the servo now gets in the way.
Personally I wouldn't go there.
It all depends on what kind of stuff you find yourself driving through but I know that I will often find myself with either door hard up against a clay bank and sliding along it or pushing through dense undergrowth. That little plastic thing would be ripped off at once. As it is I have removed and redesigned the side storage doors on mine to take the punishment. The previous steel ones were about to fall off.
Map. You gotta link?
There is this:
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f6/snorkel-52666.html
It all depends on what kind of stuff you find yourself driving through but I know that I will often find myself with either door hard up against a clay bank and sliding along it or pushing through dense undergrowth. That little plastic thing would be ripped off at once. As it is I have removed and redesigned the side storage doors on mine to take the punishment. The previous steel ones were about to fall off.
Map. You gotta link?
There is this:
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f6/snorkel-52666.html
Alan
1983 ex-army FFR 109 Stage 1
2005 Disco 2 HSE TD5
1983 ex-army FFR 109 Stage 1
2005 Disco 2 HSE TD5
- gary_in_nz
- Posts: 138
- Joined: Thu Jan 04, 2007 7:57 am
- Location: Gisborne, New Zealand
- Contact:
yeah i'm with disco2hse on this. and chances are if your that deep in water that you need a snorkel the electrics will cut out and the spark plugs will be all wet.
although in saying that i have had my one up to the head lights wadding a river at home lots of crc on the plugs and coil before going in!!! hahahaha, main thing is to whack a piece of ply wood or a tarp or something to stop it flowing throw the radiator and have the fan flick it everywhere!!
although in saying that i have had my one up to the head lights wadding a river at home lots of crc on the plugs and coil before going in!!! hahahaha, main thing is to whack a piece of ply wood or a tarp or something to stop it flowing throw the radiator and have the fan flick it everywhere!!
"If it ain't v8, take it back"
Hi gary, how are you?gary_in_nz wrote:yeah i'm with disco2hse on this. and chances are if your that deep in water that you need a snorkel the electrics will cut out and the spark plugs will be all wet.
although in saying that i have had my one up to the head lights wadding a river at home lots of crc on the plugs and coil before going in!!! hahahaha, main thing is to whack a piece of ply wood or a tarp or something to stop it flowing throw the radiator and have the fan flick it everywhere!!
Are you sayng that the snorkel will cause problem in water?
wonderful sport!
1984 SeriesIII ex-melitary, 109 inch, V8 stage one
1984 SeriesIII ex-melitary, 109 inch, V8 stage one
the problem is that if your in water deep enough to need a snorkel to stop the water getting into the engine, the ignition system will be covered in water. At that point you want hav eanay sparks getting to the plugs so youll be going no where anyway, unless you waterproof the igniton, (military may have done it already)
Dani,
The snorkel is there to provide air for the engine, nothing more.
The point that was being made is that if you get into so much water that the air intake is already under water, then the car's electrics will most likely have short-circuited before then and the engine will not run. Unless of course the engine has been water-proofed, such as with some military versions or it has had a hefty spray with WD40 or Inox before going into the water.
Exceptions are for those who live in very hot or dusty places and it is a good idea to raise the air intake to get cooler air or to lift it above the dust and dirt.
If you fit a snorkel it is not enough to merely stick the pipe on and connect it to the air intake. The rest of the system needs to be water-proofed too. The large barrel shaped air filter, for example, has a rubber drain nipple on the bottom that is prone to perishing. This is the first place water will get in. Otherwise the pipe work from the air filter to the carbs is generally in poor condition and needs to be strong enough not to collapse when it gets hot (it will have quite a lot of negative atmospheric pressure when the engine is running hot and fast) and have good quality hose clamps on all the joins. The joins also need to be siliconed to prevent water from being sucked in.
HIH - Alan
The snorkel is there to provide air for the engine, nothing more.
The point that was being made is that if you get into so much water that the air intake is already under water, then the car's electrics will most likely have short-circuited before then and the engine will not run. Unless of course the engine has been water-proofed, such as with some military versions or it has had a hefty spray with WD40 or Inox before going into the water.
Exceptions are for those who live in very hot or dusty places and it is a good idea to raise the air intake to get cooler air or to lift it above the dust and dirt.
If you fit a snorkel it is not enough to merely stick the pipe on and connect it to the air intake. The rest of the system needs to be water-proofed too. The large barrel shaped air filter, for example, has a rubber drain nipple on the bottom that is prone to perishing. This is the first place water will get in. Otherwise the pipe work from the air filter to the carbs is generally in poor condition and needs to be strong enough not to collapse when it gets hot (it will have quite a lot of negative atmospheric pressure when the engine is running hot and fast) and have good quality hose clamps on all the joins. The joins also need to be siliconed to prevent water from being sucked in.
HIH - Alan
Alan
1983 ex-army FFR 109 Stage 1
2005 Disco 2 HSE TD5
1983 ex-army FFR 109 Stage 1
2005 Disco 2 HSE TD5