HELP 2

Technical questions and answers
Post Reply
martin hughes
Posts: 59
Joined: Wed Oct 19, 2005 1:01 pm
Location: staffs

HELP 2

Post by martin hughes »

Can any body help?
Bought a stage 1 v8 a few months ago, drove 500 or 600 miles no problems,
Carried out full service including coolant change and started to suffer intermitent over heating.

Cleaned out pipe on front of carb housing.
Topped up from heater matrix pipes.
Replaced thermostat.

Still no joy.

Few days later water pump "tell tail" leaks
Fitted new pump.

Now notice runs ok with cap off but pressurises with cap fitted.
Found small ammount of water on oil cap.

Removed both heads (10 thou out)
Machined and pressure tested,
Re-fitted heads.

First run up and top hose gets red hot, temp gauge goes moon bound, bottom hose still cold.

any ideas?

Following points also to note:
Radiator seems not in bad nick, tested with hose for flow.
Fan running.
All hoses seem ok, no kinks etc.
Will over heat whilst on tick over, no load required
Quality coolant used to corrrect mix.
Fan belt at corect tension.

Many Thanks
1982 109 V8 Station Wagon
1965 88 Short Wheel Base
glencoyne
Posts: 78
Joined: Tue Sep 27, 2005 6:29 am
Contact:

Post by glencoyne »

These V8s seem to suffer from airlocks when you have drained the system. Did your new thermostat have the little hole in it with the pin that waggles about? (Not a very good description I know, but if you have seen one you will know what I mean.) This can help the air to escape.

Try undoing the small bore hose that runs from the top front of the inlet manifold back to the radiator (and check it isn't blocked). Keep pouring coolant into the header tank until it comes out of the pipe that goes into the inlet manifold.

Richard
User avatar
Basil
Posts: 137
Joined: Thu Nov 03, 2005 1:12 pm
Location: Fife

Post by Basil »

Hi martin, it is possible you still have air trapped in the system, mine is a right bugger to bleed through if i have had to drain the coolant and the only way i can get it out require's two people.

What i do is fill it up and remove the top hose off the heater and get some one to hold it, then i ( know this sound's bad) put me mouth on the header tank and blow till i get a good stream of coolant flowing through the heater hose then while i am still blowing me mate refits the heater hose a bit of a faff i know but if i don't do it i can't get all the air out and coz i run lpg me vapouriser freezes up and me truck overheats.

hope this helps

Basil
Landrover, If it don't leak oil, it's ran out.

Stage1 station wagon, 3.9 V8, galv chassis, parabolic's, lpg
Huzey
Posts: 100
Joined: Sun Jan 23, 2005 2:56 pm
Location: Gloucestershire

Post by Huzey »

Hi Martin
You seem to have done everything I would have done in your situation. Just a thought, and you didn't mention it in your post, did you reverse flush the block at the same time as the rad? Other than that, I have no idea, apart from a duff new component maybe??
Sorry I can't come up with anything else.
Good luck
Huzey
I started off with nothing, and still got most of it left!
1989 110 V8 Hard Top

1955 Fordson Major E1a
glencoyne
Posts: 78
Joined: Tue Sep 27, 2005 6:29 am
Contact:

Post by glencoyne »

Forget that bit I said about pouring coolant into the header tank. I was thinking of my old 110 V8 which had a Sherpa header tank and strange plumbing. It won't work for a Stage 1. Basil's suggestion is good though.

Richard
martin hughes
Posts: 59
Joined: Wed Oct 19, 2005 1:01 pm
Location: staffs

Post by martin hughes »

Will try the blowing in the tank idea tommorow morning, regarding the thermostat it did have the pin in it which i aligned to the top.

Please do keep the ideas and advice comming in!

What a great bunch of guys (& girls?) such a posative response in such a short time.

Again many thanks.
1982 109 V8 Station Wagon
1965 88 Short Wheel Base
primsil
Posts: 176
Joined: Mon Sep 05, 2005 10:14 am
Location: New Zealand

Post by primsil »

Sounds like fitting a bleed tap to the top heater pipe might be a good idea when I put mine back together.
1985 110, 3.9 auto
martin hughes
Posts: 59
Joined: Wed Oct 19, 2005 1:01 pm
Location: staffs

Post by martin hughes »

Did the blow thing and it worked, I will get 2 pieces of copper pipe and a bleed valve from the plumbers tommorow ready for next time.

The problem now is that I had some corrosion behind the water pump on the housing plate (on the inside) which has now worn through and is dripping in to the V of the engine behind the pump.
1982 109 V8 Station Wagon
1965 88 Short Wheel Base
User avatar
Basil
Posts: 137
Joined: Thu Nov 03, 2005 1:12 pm
Location: Fife

Post by Basil »

Glad you got it sorted Martin.
Landrover, If it don't leak oil, it's ran out.

Stage1 station wagon, 3.9 V8, galv chassis, parabolic's, lpg
onno wielinga
Posts: 62
Joined: Mon Oct 10, 2005 8:20 pm
Location: the netherlands

Post by onno wielinga »

i have fitted a bleeding tap?nipple on the highest point in the system near the heater.

i took it from a scrap citroen or renault. it fitted straight away.
choc-ice
Posts: 59
Joined: Tue Jul 01, 2008 12:20 pm

Post by choc-ice »

Just found this after a search - I replaced 2 of the rubber pipes behind the water pump yesterday and now there's an airlock in the water system. I've run the car upto temperature a few times, refilled the expansion tank but the temp needle still has a few quick trips up and down the gauge :?

Don't think I can talk my wife into putting the heater hose on while I blow into the header tank, so wouldn't it refill properly if the header tank was the highest part of the system? Jack the front of the car up a bit to make sure it's higher than the heater matrix?
map1275
Posts: 1094
Joined: Mon Jul 21, 2008 2:48 am
Location: Brisbane, Australia

Post by map1275 »

If you actually get to this message:

I gather from your last line (after all the repairs) that your are reading hot but bottom tank is cold?

Not a dodgy earth to the gauges or v/stab? This scared the crap out of me one day.
choc-ice
Posts: 59
Joined: Tue Jul 01, 2008 12:20 pm

Post by choc-ice »

map1275 wrote:I gather from your last line (after all the repairs) that your are reading hot but bottom tank is cold?

Not a dodgy earth to the gauges or v/stab? This scared the crap out of me one day.
Don't think it's that. If it's a dodgy earth to the gauges the fuel gauge goes south at the same time, and that didn't happen.

When I refilled it the first time, the temp went up but the heater was blowing cold air (heater valve is jammed open by the way).

Then I refilled again and the heater worked ok but on a test drive the needle went up past "N" (normally it's just into the bottom of the N zone) and then came down to it's regular place over about 5 seconds. I'm fairly sure this is an airlock symptom?

I read on another forum that the Rover V8 can benefit from a few squeezes of the bottom radiator hose while the engine is running and the pressure cap is off, this can burp some air out.
agrojnr
Posts: 27
Joined: Mon Nov 17, 2008 1:22 am
Location: Perth Western Australia

Post by agrojnr »

I always drill 2 4mm holes in my thermostat before installing and then run the car up too temp with the cap off making sure you keep topping it up.

Then once at temp I put cap on radiator and continue to let it run for another 10mins or so keeping an eye on the header tank and top up if need be.

I have never had a airlock yet

Adam
One Life Live It
1982 Stage 1 V8 wgn
Larosto
Posts: 83
Joined: Thu Jan 11, 2007 2:56 pm
Location: Germany, N

Post by Larosto »

Hello,
after engine overhaul, mine does nearly the same as your`s. I didn`t drill any holes into the thermastat, because I never heard about this, but I can imagine that it works. I drove until the engine got warm (temperature gauge near red area) then I slowly opened the expansion-tank, (while doing so one can hear the air coming out very loud, and one can feel the pressure which comes out); and filled it up with HOT water. This I did three or four times, and the problem with the airlocks had gone.
A little bit of water at the oilfillercap can be normal, if the engine ran for short times, because it didn`t reach it`s normal working-temperature. Probably it is only condenswater. If you would have water in the engineoil because of a crack or a headgasket-failure, you would have water in the engineoil-tank and you would see it at your controlpin.
If you have got a hole in your steering-chain-cover you can try to repair it with a kind of quickmetall and sealpack. Hope this helps and
wish you the best

Horst :)
Post Reply