Stage 1 Cracking front Mudguards

djam1 · Post by **djam1** » Sun Nov 23, 2008 8:44 am

Does anyone have any views as to why the Stage 1 front Mudguards crack??
They crack near the headlight on the inner edge I remember running tours in
them 25 years ago and they were almost like it from new if used on dirt roads.
I am caught between 2 minds are they mounted too well or not well enough??

disco2hse · Post by **disco2hse** » Sun Nov 23, 2008 11:00 pm

I think you have got some of your answer from the aulro forum. I haven't encountered this myself, but I would think that any cracking would result from stress fractures and possibly caused by the headlamps flexing.

I would think that any remedial solution would best be performed by installing a backing plate between the headlamp housing and the inside of the fender. In other words, to spread the load stress across a wider surface of the aluminium. I would be inclined to use 1-1.5mm aluminum.

stirlsilver · Post by **stirlsilver** » Tue Nov 25, 2008 9:36 am

Mine is cracking also, the RH side, which is the original panel.
The crack is forming towards the top where pair of bolts are located.

At the end of the day the cars are 25-30 years old and they have a lot of vibration so it's probably natural fatigue. I haven't really become overly concerned though, it's only a small crack... athough it will grow but it will take a long time.

disco2hse · Post by **disco2hse** » Tue Nov 25, 2008 7:33 pm

Agreed. If the crack is small you could probably halt its advance with Aradite or Sikaflex 252, or something similar, and slap a smallish aluminium plate on the underside of the damaged area.

landdani · Post by **landdani** » Wed Nov 26, 2008 8:12 pm

Hi all, could you explain to me what is the (front Mudguards) ?

disco2hse · Post by **disco2hse** » Wed Nov 26, 2008 8:20 pm

Dani,

Have a look at Stirlings signature. The left photo shows the front mudguards and the area we are talking about. Where the headlights are.

A quick lesson in English

Mudguard is two words. It is a piece of the truck's body that stops mud from being thrown all over the place, and so it guards or protects.

landdani · Post by **landdani** » Wed Nov 26, 2008 9:32 pm

Hi disco, thank you as usal.

I thoght you call them (bumbers) .

Do you have any activities with gary_in_nz ?

disco2hse · Post by **disco2hse** » Wed Nov 26, 2008 9:34 pm

No, that's the bit that sticks out the front. On Stirling's again, he has bull bars attached to his.

landdani · Post by **landdani** » Wed Nov 26, 2008 9:36 pm

Ok, Thank you.

disco2hse · Post by **disco2hse** » Wed Nov 26, 2008 9:43 pm

landdani wrote:Do you have any activities with gary_in_nz ?

No, not outside the forum. Gisborne is a long way from where I am (about 6 hours drive, more or less).

djam1 · Post by **djam1** » Thu Nov 27, 2008 7:45 am

Thanks guys
Its very hard to get anything on the underside of the guard due to the headlamp mountings.
I have Stikaflexed some aluminum angle to the bottom of the additional cracks that I created by strengthening things up.
I drive on rough roads a lot so that's why mine is so bad.
Stirling is right the cars are now close to 30 years old as per my original post I used these things in the Territory back in the 80s when they were new and they were cracked then.
So they don't deteriorate that much over the years just annoying in something that I have spent a lot of money on.

stirlsilver · Post by **stirlsilver** » Thu Nov 27, 2008 1:44 pm

I doubt sikaflex will do the job. It's rubbery and will not stop the movement between the panels. You will need something that is hard like Araldite or Epoxy. The 24 hour cure stuff would be the best to use because it is stronger and harder than the 5 minute.

Really to do a proper job you will probably need to take the guard off and sit it with the light facing down and glue in the reinforcement. After you are done you should also fill the crack with the same stuff.

Well, that is what I would do anyway

But the sikaflex isn't going to do much...

djam1 · Post by **djam1** » Thu Nov 27, 2008 8:57 pm

Stirling I understand what you are saying about flexing but I worked in Alice Springs for 25 years and used Big 4x4 buses (Unimogs etc,)
We used Sikaflex for all our bodywork and it was fantastic yes it will move but Ive never seen it let go.
Remember I have already promoted new cracks by making things more rigid (oh and they are in new places)

Larry · Post by **Larry** » Mon Dec 01, 2008 8:23 am

Just a little thing that may help.

If you find a crack in aluminium or anything else for that matter (also very good for plastics and GRP), drill a small hole at the extreme ends of the crack. This should stop the crack propogating further, you can then fill, dress or repair as you like.

This technique is/was used on military aircraft so should work on a Landy!

I also think that Sikaflex will work with the technique above, but will allow the cracking to continue if used on its own (albeit much slower).