People,
I need some help...
My Stage 1's transfer case went phut (intermediate shaft I think), I sourced a repacment LT95 out of a 101.
Put the stage 1 bellhousing on and all was well until it came to the front output shaft.
The flange on the double jointed stage 1 shaft fouls the diff lock actuator (with either the stage 1 or 101 oiuput shaft on the transfer case.
It seems that I will have to have a new (longer shaft made up to connect thedrive back up.
Has anyone done this?
Thanks in advance.
Les
LT95 from a 101 into a Stage 1- front driveshaft problem
LT95 from a 101 into a Stage 1- front driveshaft problem
1983 Stage 1 CSW, 3.9 & Weber
-
stirlsilver
- Posts: 339
- Joined: Tue Nov 21, 2006 9:45 am
- Location: Wheelers Hill, Victoria, Australia
- Contact:
Some photos always helps here.
So the front output shaft on the transfercase sits further back from the front differential?And even when you try to bolt the flanges together it fouls? Is this right? Is the rear output shaft in the right spot?
If the output shaft is simply sitting too far back, I suppose you could just get an extension made up that bolts onto the output shaft of the transfer case and then you bolt the drive shaft to it?
If the output shaft is in the same spot relative to the front diff, but simply fouls with the actuator, extending it further forward will put the universals at a greater angle and the universal close to the diff will be misaligned. Also, you may bottom out the spline on the drive shaft.
I hope something i said helped
So the front output shaft on the transfercase sits further back from the front differential?And even when you try to bolt the flanges together it fouls? Is this right? Is the rear output shaft in the right spot?
If the output shaft is simply sitting too far back, I suppose you could just get an extension made up that bolts onto the output shaft of the transfer case and then you bolt the drive shaft to it?
If the output shaft is in the same spot relative to the front diff, but simply fouls with the actuator, extending it further forward will put the universals at a greater angle and the universal close to the diff will be misaligned. Also, you may bottom out the spline on the drive shaft.
I hope something i said helped
Stirling
Videos:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a8Xljp6DD9g 17 June
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_mlJblv9iUo 24 May
& Others!
Videos:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a8Xljp6DD9g 17 June
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_mlJblv9iUo 24 May
& Others!
Hi there,
Unfortunatly the beast is where I am not, so no pics.
The issue appears to be that the diff lock actuator on the 101 case is either further forward or closer to the body of the gearbox/transfer case.
The flange on the stage 1 shaft is evidently the largest flange the guys in the garage (a LR specialist) have ever seen on a LR!
They have tried various combinations of the 101 output housing (small flange) and every drive shaft that they have around but they are all short.
the solution seems to be make up a longer (small flange) drive shaft but that (a) cost money and (b) loses the double jointed section on te stage 1 shaft.
Given that I don't need lots of articulation I will probably have the new shaft made and check the joints a lot.
At least when i have all the parts back home I will be able to either rebuild a new stage 1 LT95 box or just live with the loss os the double cardan joint.
TTFN
Les
Unfortunatly the beast is where I am not, so no pics.
The issue appears to be that the diff lock actuator on the 101 case is either further forward or closer to the body of the gearbox/transfer case.
The flange on the stage 1 shaft is evidently the largest flange the guys in the garage (a LR specialist) have ever seen on a LR!
They have tried various combinations of the 101 output housing (small flange) and every drive shaft that they have around but they are all short.
the solution seems to be make up a longer (small flange) drive shaft but that (a) cost money and (b) loses the double jointed section on te stage 1 shaft.
Given that I don't need lots of articulation I will probably have the new shaft made and check the joints a lot.
At least when i have all the parts back home I will be able to either rebuild a new stage 1 LT95 box or just live with the loss os the double cardan joint.
TTFN
Les
1983 Stage 1 CSW, 3.9 & Weber
-
stirlsilver
- Posts: 339
- Joined: Tue Nov 21, 2006 9:45 am
- Location: Wheelers Hill, Victoria, Australia
- Contact:
Well, sounds like you know what to do to get it sorted.
One thing you need to remember... which I found out the hard way, is that the stage 1 front diff housing is rotated so that the differntial input shaft is inline with the drive shaft. If you fit a single cardan driveshaft keep the fact that the transfer case output flange and the diff input flange aren't parallel.
If you do go away from the double cardan setup, let me know, i'll be interested in your drive shaft. Mine shot out earlier this year and I had it reconditioned. But the guy didn't do a very good job and it is already on its way out...
One thing you need to remember... which I found out the hard way, is that the stage 1 front diff housing is rotated so that the differntial input shaft is inline with the drive shaft. If you fit a single cardan driveshaft keep the fact that the transfer case output flange and the diff input flange aren't parallel.
If you do go away from the double cardan setup, let me know, i'll be interested in your drive shaft. Mine shot out earlier this year and I had it reconditioned. But the guy didn't do a very good job and it is already on its way out...
Stirling
Videos:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a8Xljp6DD9g 17 June
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_mlJblv9iUo 24 May
& Others!
Videos:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a8Xljp6DD9g 17 June
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_mlJblv9iUo 24 May
& Others!
I gues I am hopeing someone will tell me a secret fix...
However in real life I guess not. I have read that doing away with the double joint and replecing it with a single one has ben done but I was hoping that someone who had really done it would be around, still maybe
At least i will be able to get it home and us it, replacing worn out UJs is not bad when you can crawl under the brute to do the work !
Bye for now.
Les
However in real life I guess not. I have read that doing away with the double joint and replecing it with a single one has ben done but I was hoping that someone who had really done it would be around, still maybe
At least i will be able to get it home and us it, replacing worn out UJs is not bad when you can crawl under the brute to do the work !
Bye for now.
Les
1983 Stage 1 CSW, 3.9 & Weber
I'm a little confused by this, though I read it a few times! Are you saying that because the flange on the front output is so big, it's hitting the side of the main gearbox housing?
Did you try the Stage I output shaft and housing? They are peculiar to the model. The output shaft housing is longer than on a Range Rover, (but of course I don't know in comparison to a 101.) You do really want to keep the double-cardan shaft - it's there to avoid vibration from the front diff being tilted up, (which is its normal position), and therefore not parallel with the gearbox, a setup also peculiar to the model.
Countys came out with a single-joint front driveshaft but the two halves of the shaft were assembled out of phase. The two UJs were not even, as with most shafts, but out by a spline or two on the sliding shaft. This was Mr. Rover's cheapo way to avoid vibrations.
Did you try the Stage I output shaft and housing? They are peculiar to the model. The output shaft housing is longer than on a Range Rover, (but of course I don't know in comparison to a 101.) You do really want to keep the double-cardan shaft - it's there to avoid vibration from the front diff being tilted up, (which is its normal position), and therefore not parallel with the gearbox, a setup also peculiar to the model.
Countys came out with a single-joint front driveshaft but the two halves of the shaft were assembled out of phase. The two UJs were not even, as with most shafts, but out by a spline or two on the sliding shaft. This was Mr. Rover's cheapo way to avoid vibrations.
Hi there,
The problem is the Diff-lock actuator. It seems its in a different position on the 101 version of teh LT95 box.
The flange on the stage 1 drive shaft is large and it fouls the actuator, I am going to get a new (longer) shaft made up that will fit the small flange 101 output flange and then look at fixing the problem with the transfer case on the original stage 1 box.
I suspect that the case is toasted as if the bearings have seized on the shaft they will have damaged the case.
I will try and find another LT95 and rebuild a good one form the parts.
TTFN
Les
The problem is the Diff-lock actuator. It seems its in a different position on the 101 version of teh LT95 box.
The flange on the stage 1 drive shaft is large and it fouls the actuator, I am going to get a new (longer) shaft made up that will fit the small flange 101 output flange and then look at fixing the problem with the transfer case on the original stage 1 box.
I suspect that the case is toasted as if the bearings have seized on the shaft they will have damaged the case.
I will try and find another LT95 and rebuild a good one form the parts.
TTFN
Les
1983 Stage 1 CSW, 3.9 & Weber
have put rangie box and a 101 box into stage ones over the years.
All i did was undo the front out put housing bolts from the donor stage one box. shaft, bearing,flange & seal to come out as an assembly.with the housing. ( sometimes the locating dowels stay in the old box (2) they
are needed in the stage 1 front housing before it goes on the 101 box. Take the actuator housing off first as one of the bolts for the front housing sits inside. Upon assembly ensure the difflock dog is around the right way,the fork correctly engaged and vac hoses the right way !
All i did was undo the front out put housing bolts from the donor stage one box. shaft, bearing,flange & seal to come out as an assembly.with the housing. ( sometimes the locating dowels stay in the old box (2) they
are needed in the stage 1 front housing before it goes on the 101 box. Take the actuator housing off first as one of the bolts for the front housing sits inside. Upon assembly ensure the difflock dog is around the right way,the fork correctly engaged and vac hoses the right way !