JATE/Recovery rings - Where to fit?

Larry · Post by **Larry** » Wed Mar 19, 2008 8:04 am

While I'm sorting out all the issues with the Chassis, it occurred to me that this was the ideal time to fit JATE rings or similar. Before I go and spend the money, I have a couple of questions that hopefully some of you will know about:

a) JATE rings seem the best option, but are the swivel recovery rings worth condering?

b) Where is the best place to fit them, especially on the front i.e forward of the spring hanger, behind it, or on the front X-member?

c) I presume that tubing through the chassis is essential with these for strength. Is this correct?

d) Do you have to take them off for the MoT test? or can they stay fitted?

jonnyboy · Post by **jonnyboy** » Mon Apr 21, 2008 2:49 pm

As far as I am aware most stage 1's came with recover points bolted on to the top of the bumper using the mounting bolts. I have also fitted diy jate rings to a series 3 buy using some spring hangers and a bit of tubing. I found the longest spring hanger bolt I could and then used that to have some extra spring hangers sticking out forwards and then used another bolt with a tube sleeve to make a recovery point.

I have never had any problems with MOT's and I dont think they should make any difference.

Jon

Larry · Post by **Larry** » Tue Apr 22, 2008 7:06 am

Cheers Jonnyboy, I thought that this was going to be a very lonely thread!

Mine hasn't got the bumper top recovery points. I was told years ago that these weren't strong enough for recovery though and should only be used for tie down.

I do like the spring haner idea, though I'd pretty much decided to put a hole in the chassis and sleeve it for the JATE's. No problem on a 90 or 110 as there are no springs in the way at the front. I had thought that putting a hole half way up the front spring hanger and sleeving it would be ideal. If anyone has done this, let me know.

The other thought was to use the front X-member, but unsure if that is strong enough.

A friend did point out that he didn't see the point as I'd never got stuck in the Stage 1, it always seemed to power it's way out. Never say never though!

gary_in_nz · Post by **gary_in_nz** » Tue Apr 22, 2008 8:43 am

hi, hey have you considered rated recovery hooks?? some 4x4 clubs and trips/trip leaders etc... sometimes require you to have?? i guess how offten and how 'hard core' is the truck going to be used off the seal??

well thats how it is down under (NZ) most times, 8,000lb minimum.

gary

Larry · Post by **Larry** » Wed Apr 23, 2008 7:11 am

I only really used it off road on club days in some god forsaken mud hole in Wales. I just know that if I don't have anything fitted, I'll need 'em.

The last time I went, some poor sod got stuck in a mud hole. There were loads of people around until it started snowing horizontally and they all disappeared in about 2 minutes flat. We struggled to help him as he didn't have any safe way of attaching the winch on the front and no way to recover from the rear. I don't want to be that man!

The clubs usually insist that you have at least a rear recovery point , but front ones seem sensible also.

disco2hse · Post by **disco2hse** » Tue Apr 29, 2008 1:13 am

Like Gary said. Recovery points are easily obtained and have rated break points. I would not be so certain with any home made stuff and here at least, such things are generally not accepted unless they are constructed and tested (e.g. x-rayed).

The brush bar on the front of George is bolted onto the top of the chassis and incorporates recovery anchors. I can see no reason why you can't bolt in the same manner. On the other hand I would be reluctant to go drilling more holes in the chassis, especially up there where the springs are mounted. If there is no obvious place to put in a hole I would rather fabricate a two part sleave that wraps around the chassis member and onto which is mounted the recovery point.