New power train

meph373 · Post by **meph373** » Mon Feb 25, 2008 3:18 am

Hello all,

I am preparing to replace the engine and rebuild my gearbox. I bought a new 4.0 long block locally and pick it up this weekend. I bought an edelbrock preformer manifold and a Holly 500 carb. I can see how this could get out of control quickly.

This is my first time, I guess I just need a sanity check to make sure I'm not overlooking anything obvious. Is there anything I should be paying attention to as well? I guess I could consider refurbishing the propshafts (Ill have to print some more money) but I dont really have much play or vibration out of them.

Any tip, tricks, or lessons learned would be appreciated.

Cheers,

Eric

Rob · Post by **Rob** » Mon Feb 25, 2008 5:27 pm

make sure the braking system is in tip top condition as
you'll need stopping power with this engine fitted!! any
idea how much horsepower it'll develop?

meph373 · Post by **meph373** » Mon Feb 25, 2008 5:46 pm

No idea on the HP increase, but I'd imagine it's going to be substantial considering the upgrade to the Holley as well. Do they make block hugger tubular headers for the Rover V8? Ive heard some horror stories on trying to get headers working.

I was considering upgrading with the Torrel Disk Brake conversion. They call for no less than 16in rims for this. I already have some tire rubbing form the tire I have fitted currently. If I spring for 16 in steel rims and tires I suppose I can sort out a lower profile all terrain tire as well. This is the sort of thing I was afraid of, financially speaking...the snowball effect.

One more question. I often see the displacement numbers sorted oddly. What I mean is 4.0L is usually sorted in a different catagory than the 3.5,3.9 ect. Is this an issue, I havent gone and bought a long block that Ill have to use computer controlled ignition or something because it's hard wired for injection and no distributor? Perhaps it is a coincidence, it seems just a matter of the proper timing chain cover and gearing for a distributor ect.

I suppose I am getting nervous at the time draws nigh. At any rate, I look forward to any and all support.

Cheers,

Eric

jonnyboy · Post by **jonnyboy** » Wed Feb 27, 2008 10:04 am

They call for no less than 16in rims for this. I already have some tire rubbing form the tire I have fitted currently. If I spring for 16 in steel rims and tires I suppose I can sort out a lower profile all terrain tire as well.

Eric,

What size wheels and tryes are you running on at the moment?

16" is standard fitment on a land rover (I assume you are running 15") and I am not sure what you mean by "lower profile". The usual size of tyre fitted would be 235/85R16 (85% profile) or aproxx 32/10x16

Jon

meph373 · Post by **meph373** » Wed Feb 27, 2008 11:53 pm

I am running 235/75 R15, BF Goodrich All Terrain T/As on stock rims. I think the next time I need new tires I'll probably buy some 16" Wolf rims and put some Dunlop Radial Rover's on it. I don't do much off roading and they'll be quieter. I'll also have enough space to do a disk brake conversion.

I'm not sure what I meant by low profile, it just sounded right. I was concerned about rubbing on the body, which happens now with the 15' tires.

Eric

jonnyboy · Post by **jonnyboy** » Thu Feb 28, 2008 9:57 am

Eric,

One thing to be aware of is that 235/75R15 tyres are only 29" in diameter where as standard fitment for a stage 1 is 32". I would imagine you are very under geared but probably have pretty good acceleration!

Jon

stirlsilver · Post by **stirlsilver** » Thu Feb 28, 2008 9:36 pm

put the 0.992:1 transfer gears into your transfer box and the engine will do 2500rpm @100km/h on 30" tyres. Very worth while conversion. But the gears are very pricy!

primsil · Post by **primsil** » Thu Mar 06, 2008 9:05 am

stirlsilver wrote:put the 0.992:1 transfer gears into your transfer box and the engine will do 2500rpm @100km/h on 30" tyres. Very worth while conversion. But the gears are very pricy!

how pricy? actually I think they are .996, I have a spare set on the shelf for US$100.

The 4.0 has a different crank and oil pump to a 3.9. The main bearings are larger. They also only have 10 head bolts, I think they are also crossdrilled blocks, but that may be only later ones.
You can use an old style front cover, sump and oil pump on a 4.0 block but have to use a spacer for the crank pulley. They are also serpentine belt drive for the ancilliaries. I would use the efi myself, far better than any holley or edelbrock.

stirlsilver · Post by **stirlsilver** » Mon Mar 10, 2008 11:20 am

I paid $600 for a new set of gears....