It just wont run right
It just wont run right
I finally thought everything was ready for the MOT but the engine decided it didnt want to play.
I just cant get my engine to run well.
Every time I think its running right I go for a run and after half a mile it starts to pop and fart and loses all power. It seems to start backfiring through the carbs.
Heres what I have done:
I have checked the tinming marks corespond to TDC on cylinder 1 and set the timing with a strobe to 6 BTDC.
I have fitted new plugs, leads, rotor arm and cap with some better quality ones than the cheap crap that was on there.
I have balanced the carbs (strombergs) and adjusted the mixtures using the technique described http://www.gerull.nl/mg/technics/carb/carb_tuning.html
I went through it all this morning, backing the mixture adjustments right back and starting from scratch and initially it ran sweetly. It had a smooth idle and reved freely.when for a drive around the yard and it was all fine. Went for a run down the road and had to get towed home.
Any suggestions??????????????
Thanks
I just cant get my engine to run well.
Every time I think its running right I go for a run and after half a mile it starts to pop and fart and loses all power. It seems to start backfiring through the carbs.
Heres what I have done:
I have checked the tinming marks corespond to TDC on cylinder 1 and set the timing with a strobe to 6 BTDC.
I have fitted new plugs, leads, rotor arm and cap with some better quality ones than the cheap crap that was on there.
I have balanced the carbs (strombergs) and adjusted the mixtures using the technique described http://www.gerull.nl/mg/technics/carb/carb_tuning.html
I went through it all this morning, backing the mixture adjustments right back and starting from scratch and initially it ran sweetly. It had a smooth idle and reved freely.when for a drive around the yard and it was all fine. Went for a run down the road and had to get towed home.
Any suggestions??????????????
Thanks
-
- Posts: 59
- Joined: Wed Oct 19, 2005 1:01 pm
- Location: staffs
-
- Posts: 59
- Joined: Wed Oct 19, 2005 1:01 pm
- Location: staffs
Good idea.
You can get the carb kits from craddocks, there are 2 types of kit one has more parts than the other althrough you will need both for a strip down of each carb, you will end up with some duplicated items for spares.
you will also need a steel ruler to set the float height.
Did you check the filtter in the base of the fuel pump?
You can get the carb kits from craddocks, there are 2 types of kit one has more parts than the other althrough you will need both for a strip down of each carb, you will end up with some duplicated items for spares.
you will also need a steel ruler to set the float height.
Did you check the filtter in the base of the fuel pump?
1982 109 V8 Station Wagon
1965 88 Short Wheel Base
1965 88 Short Wheel Base
-
- Posts: 29
- Joined: Sun Jan 08, 2006 4:24 pm
- Location: beverley, east riding
I finally binned my leaky Strombergs after unsuccessful re-builds & got a Webber. Together with a 1:283 rear diff I didn't think I was in the same vehicle! Accellerates effortlessly, makes the vehicle seem lighter. The power no longer fizzles out as the revs rise. I'm not kidding. I've had the "Truck" for past 20 yrs & done loads to it, but nothing has made a difference like this. But now I'm stuffed because its making water disappear at rate of 26m to the half-litre!! Just needs a new engine, that's all! That's Landrover life!
Yep, that was full of gunk as well!Did you check the filtter in the base of the fuel pump?
I plan to fit either a weber or a pair of SU's but need to get it running first for its MOT. Then I can bring it home as its currently on a mates farm near york and I am in Barnsley!I finally binned my leaky Strombergs after unsuccessful re-builds & got a Webber
Might even get really silly and fit a megasqurit EFI system I am already planning to get rid of the dizzy when I get it running.
I have stripped down one of the carbs tonight and there is a lot of play in the shaft so it looks like I will either have to rebush it or throw them away and find a cheap alternative.
-
- Posts: 59
- Joined: Wed Oct 19, 2005 1:01 pm
- Location: staffs
Not thought of that so will give it a try. It now gives me problems when cold so I am not sure if its temperature related.Could it be the ballast resistor breaking down under temprature load
I have been offered a pair of SU's from a discovery that I am hoping to pick up this weekend so will give them a try asap.
What ignition system are you using.
I use Lumenition electronic and had problems with cutting out when hot
I was told that Lumenition wires from the module to the dizzy especially the 3 pin connector hate getting hot so I re-routed them away from the heat and also shrouded them in a bit of washing machine tube and everything now seems ok
Also the module does not like getting hot either.
OR
This guy had fuel pump pressure problems ie pressure too high which gave the same symptoms as you are getting
http://www.v8register.net/subpages/V8NOTE328.htm
Hope this helps
I use Lumenition electronic and had problems with cutting out when hot
I was told that Lumenition wires from the module to the dizzy especially the 3 pin connector hate getting hot so I re-routed them away from the heat and also shrouded them in a bit of washing machine tube and everything now seems ok
Also the module does not like getting hot either.
OR
This guy had fuel pump pressure problems ie pressure too high which gave the same symptoms as you are getting
http://www.v8register.net/subpages/V8NOTE328.htm
Hope this helps