Oil Filter Difference? And Oil Pan Suggestions?

Technical questions and answers
KR
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Oil Filter Difference? And Oil Pan Suggestions?

Post by KR »

Hi!

I just registered on this board, I had never in my dreams imagined there was a actual Stage One forum out there, but here I am. Pretty cool, 116 members and all.

Anyway, I have just resurrected the 3.5 litre beast in my Stage One after six years (or so) of sleep. So I bought some new (semi synthetical) oil and an oil filter, from the local car parts lot (Biltema, for those who know). Well, it seems like the filter I got (which originally is for 4-cylinder Volvo cars, and supposedly some diesel Toyota engines) is a little different from the unit which was mounted earlier.

The new filter has about 1/3 less capacity, six (versus eight) flow holes, one turn of thread area less, and seems to have a different (more modern?) construction inside. I took this picture to make it a little easier for you:

Image

So, question is, is it totally sound to use the filter I have bought? Could there be any possible ill effects from using it?

Then on to the next issue I have. You see, I decided to pull the oil pan when I had drained of the old oil, and I was met by a tragic view. The Land Rover engineers have for some rather dumb reason painted the inside of the pan, and to make matters worse, with a terrible paint that is flaking off (as a result of heat, I guess). I took a picture here also:

Image

As you can see, the area at the rear (of the engine) is flaking off. Not only above, but also under the splash plate (which is an area very hard to reach). The rest of the missing paint is removed intentionally somehow.

The best thing, of course, would be to sandblast the whole thing, but I unfortunately don’t have the access to such equipment. I however, used a (water) pressure washer first, this stripped off some paint and all the oil/sludge debris. Then I proceeded with a wire brush to remove the excess from the cork seal, this seemed to clean the metal pretty decently, as you can see.

And theeeen comes the question, what would you do with the rest of the paint? My options are to leave it as now, or use the wire brush on the top part (which is reachable) and strip it all off. (Would the unreachable paint under the plate have a bigger chance of falling off if this procedure is applied?) Also, if you have a suggestion on how to remove any of the paint (that didn’t come off with the pressure washer) on the back wall, under the plate, please speak up.

I assume hot motor oil (how hot warm are we talking?) will have a very different effect on the paint than what water under pressure has? The reason about all the fuss is that I would preferably avoid having paint leavings pumped around in the motor, destroying machined surfaces, etc. The filter on the oil pickup was surprisingly fine, alas.

So, please let me know your thoughts on this.

Thanks!
Last edited by KR on Sun Aug 06, 2006 11:28 pm, edited 1 time in total.
KR
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Location: Norway/US

Post by KR »

Sorry about the huge pictures.
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jonnyboy
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Post by jonnyboy »

Hi,

Welcome to the forum.

I have resized the pictures a bit for you.

I use oil filters from 2.5l 90/110 engines. They are a bit shorter than the original ones. Theres is nothing really wrong with using a bit smaller capacity filter just change it more often.

When I rebuilt my engine there was flakes of green paint on the strainer (It was an ex army recon and the spray everything with paint). I jetwashed and scraped off as much as possible and left it as bare metal. Seems ok so far.

Jon

Jon - M1CQO

109" Stage 1 V8 Station Wagon - Now gone!
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Bumpkin
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Post by Bumpkin »

Hi KRÅVL
Welcome to the forum. Had gone a bit quiet. I think we had covered alot of items.
Terry
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1 Series 3 HiCap
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1 300 TDi Disco
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KR
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Post by KR »

Thanks for the warm welcome. Are you all from Britain?

How many litres of oil should this thing have? I have been told 5.5 litres, but is that including the filter, and what size filter? (I bought semisynthetical 10W-40 oil).

But you are saying my small oil filter will work fine, even though it's made for a four-cylinder engine?

I stripped of the paint of the sump's inside with water-mixed natrium chloride, worked decently. Now I just have to get my hands on a new gasket for the pan.

Thanks.
KR
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Post by KR »

KRÅVL wrote:How many litres of oil should this thing have? I have been told 5.5 litres, but is that including the filter, and what size filter?
Anyone?
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db
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Post by db »

Hi KRÅVL,

The manual says 5.4 litres + 0.5 litres for a new filter.

The ERR3340 genuine part oil filter has 8 holes and is about 10cm long and 9.5cm diameter.

David
KR
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Post by KR »

OK, so we're talking like six litres in all, maybe a little less with my filter?

When tightening the pan back again, how much torque should be applied on the bolts? I assume the "criss-cross- procedure" should be used while tightening, also?

I rather not have any leaks. :)
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dennis
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Post by dennis »

On the topic of oil, its been recommended to me, by various sources that the V8 doesn't really like anything but high detergent mineral oils EG classic GTX.

Anyone else heard this?

On the subject of hard to remove paint...you could try swilling it around with brake fluid and then giving it a damn good clean
Dennis & Eryl
Ex RAF V8 110 Soft top
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KR
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Post by KR »

Hm, I guess torqing the bolts by "feel" is sufficient, then? I hate leaks!

I bought a dunk of semi-synthetic, I hope that's OK?

Yeah, I know the effect of brake fluid, found out the bad way... spilled it all over the roof of a other car I have, once.
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db
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Post by db »

KRÅVL wrote:Hm, I guess torqing the bolts by "feel" is sufficient, then? I hate leaks!
There's no torque figure given in the book. It does say to use sealant at the join between the timing chain cover (if I remember right) and block.

David
KR
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Post by KR »

Yeah, I thought of moisturising the gasket (just a finger-touch of motor oil?) - or SHOULD it just be bolted in dry?
KR
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Post by KR »

KRÅVL wrote:Yeah, I thought of moisturising the gasket (just a finger-touch of motor oil?) - or SHOULD it just be bolted in dry?
Any word on this?

I'll hopefully have the thing together this weekend, if I can get some help.
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jonnyboy
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Post by jonnyboy »

As far as I am aware you only oil on cork gaskets. A smear of gasket sealant might help things but the last couple I have fitted I put on dry.

Jon - M1CQO

109" Stage 1 V8 Station Wagon - Now gone!
My Website
KR
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Post by KR »

It is a cork gasket. I guess that means I should? :)

And BTW, I've got my hands on some Chesebrough-Ponds petrolatum - I hope it works for priming the pump?
Last edited by KR on Fri Sep 15, 2006 6:07 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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