Restoration

Technical questions and answers
Cliff4WD
Posts: 332
Joined: Fri Aug 10, 2018 2:39 pm
Location: Rye, East Sussex, UK

Re: Restoration

Post by Cliff4WD »

After a lot of struggling alone I got some help, together it was not too hard to lift it out of the way.

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I decided to sort the rear axle before starting on the tub, so with it now out of the way, I got to work jacking the rear end of the chassis up and onto stands.

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Soon had the axle free

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I then half killed myself trying to get it onto my dolly

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Managed it but absolutely cream crackered now, so wrapped up and off for a long hot shower.

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Most likely I'll have to rest up tomorrow as I can hardly move now for back, neck, arms, and shoulder pain.
Cliff

1981 109 V8 Stage 1
2000 Discovery 2 Td5

109 V8: viewtopic.php?f=6&t=2161
My Disco Thread: http://www.thed2boysclub.co.uk/viewtopi ... =3&t=58130

LAND ROVER. TURNING OWNERS INTO PAUPERS FOR 70 YEARS
Cliff4WD
Posts: 332
Joined: Fri Aug 10, 2018 2:39 pm
Location: Rye, East Sussex, UK

Re: Restoration

Post by Cliff4WD »

I decided to clean the old paint and surface rust off of the axle case and final drive unit as my my next job, so today was rear axle day. It was the usual one man struggle getting the axle up to working height; the 2 tonne engine crane does a wonderful job at lifting but is a right b'stard to move on the soft surface that is my garden. I used some plywood board to aid the effort but it was still an absolute pain. Anyway, I eventually managed it after a lot of swearing and deep breathing breaks.

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I set about it with needle gun and wire wheel. The majority of the surface flakey stuff was actually old paint or under-seal as far as I could make out, but some rust flake too. Overall, the axle is in very good condition.

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After a few hours of working at it, I applied a coat of phosphoric acid based rust converter. This will protect it until I can paint it.

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I'll sort the hub, drums and brakes next.

The good news is that the salisbury final drive unit appears to be in good order. There is very little backlash and the shafts are turning nicely with no knocking noises or play. I don't think it did much mileage at all since probably having been refurbished before.
Cliff

1981 109 V8 Stage 1
2000 Discovery 2 Td5

109 V8: viewtopic.php?f=6&t=2161
My Disco Thread: http://www.thed2boysclub.co.uk/viewtopi ... =3&t=58130

LAND ROVER. TURNING OWNERS INTO PAUPERS FOR 70 YEARS
disco2hse
Posts: 1648
Joined: Sun Apr 27, 2008 3:51 am
Location: Auckland NZ

Re: Restoration

Post by disco2hse »

Like the LT95, they were a good decision on the trucks.

For a long time, I desired having an electric rear diff locker installed into mine. Now I'm glad I didn't mess with it.
Alan

1983 ex-army FFR 109 Stage 1
2005 Disco 2 HSE TD5
Cliff4WD
Posts: 332
Joined: Fri Aug 10, 2018 2:39 pm
Location: Rye, East Sussex, UK

Re: Restoration

Post by Cliff4WD »

Back on the Salisbury axle today. What a struggle. I spent a good couple of hours fighting the bolts holding the drive flange in place. This was after already having to resort to chiseling off the hub cap which had rusted on solid. I tried heat, penetrant, shock, psychic commands, and harsh words, blood sacrifice, and my 600mm breaker bar to eventually tease 5 of the 6 bolts free enough to then rattle gun clear, the 6th though was having none of it and refused to budge. Eventually the head sheared. Not so bad as at least I could then remove the flange and then remove the hub.

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I'll probably have to drill it and re-tap although I'll try welding on a nut first and see if that does the trick

The up side, is that everything is in excellent condition. The Timkin bearings are lovely, the brake shoes and cylinder are like new ...

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... and the drive shaft has no spline wear.

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The oil I drained was good with no sign of water ingress inside the axle case ...

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... and no sign of any oil leaking past the seal.

Overall, I'm pretty pleased with the condition. I'm only having to touch it at all for the obvious reason of checking condition, and to address the surface corrosion. It looked pretty crusty when I dropped if off of the springs, but it's all cleaning up nicely.

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The brake drum and back plate are in the electrolysis bath to get a thorough derust.

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I have to do it all again of course, and deal with the sheared bolt (I hope I don't have the same on the other side). Anyway, it should all look nice again when its back together and has been painted.
Cliff

1981 109 V8 Stage 1
2000 Discovery 2 Td5

109 V8: viewtopic.php?f=6&t=2161
My Disco Thread: http://www.thed2boysclub.co.uk/viewtopi ... =3&t=58130

LAND ROVER. TURNING OWNERS INTO PAUPERS FOR 70 YEARS
Cliff4WD
Posts: 332
Joined: Fri Aug 10, 2018 2:39 pm
Location: Rye, East Sussex, UK

Re: Restoration

Post by Cliff4WD »

Today was as predicted, a repeat of yesterday; however, I managed to unbolt the drive flange without shearing any of the bolts this time. It took a lot of heat and perseverance with the rattle gun but eventually, I got all 6 bolts out undamaged. The rest was just repetition of what I did before.
I gave the drum and back plate the needle-gun treatment ready for the electrolysis tank. I'll put them in tomorrow when I take the first ones out; they're looking good already but will benefit from another night of treatment.

This is the before photo

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I'll put the after shot up when I get them out of the bath.

The next thing will be to remove the final drive (diff) cover and inspect inside.

Axle case is ready for paint.

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I've ordered up some of the 'Rustbuster EM121 Epoxy Mastic Rust Proofing Paint' to give it a try.
Cliff

1981 109 V8 Stage 1
2000 Discovery 2 Td5

109 V8: viewtopic.php?f=6&t=2161
My Disco Thread: http://www.thed2boysclub.co.uk/viewtopi ... =3&t=58130

LAND ROVER. TURNING OWNERS INTO PAUPERS FOR 70 YEARS
disco2hse
Posts: 1648
Joined: Sun Apr 27, 2008 3:51 am
Location: Auckland NZ

Re: Restoration

Post by disco2hse »

All looks pretty good to me. My guess is that the diff will be fine, but it's good to have the feeling of settlement about it.
Alan

1983 ex-army FFR 109 Stage 1
2005 Disco 2 HSE TD5
Cliff4WD
Posts: 332
Joined: Fri Aug 10, 2018 2:39 pm
Location: Rye, East Sussex, UK

Re: Restoration

Post by Cliff4WD »

I've been concentrating on cleaning the rust off so hadn't rushed to look inside. Received my first order of new bits n bobs, inc. diff cover gasket, so opened up for inspection.

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All looks perfectly fine. No sign of wear or anything to worry about

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Backlash is minimal and well within spec, so nothing to do here thankfully.

Carried on with the cleaning and will be painting it all soon.

Drums all good

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Backplates done ...

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... so they're ready for paint.

Sorting the hubs, stub axles, and drive flanges now. I do have the sheared bolt in the rear offside hub to extract though and it's been stubbornly resisting all efforts so far. I tapped a thread and put an M10 nut on it which I'll weld on next session. Hopefully that will work.

It's all taking a lot longer than normal as I just don't seem to have the energy for it any more. The effort just slaughters me, which is embarrassing since it's not that hard work in the grand scheme of things. Breathing is a buggar with the PPE on

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and my back is screaming through all the stooping involved. Never mind though, I'll get there eventually.

I decided to order new rear springs as the thought of dismantling and wire brushing was too much to contemplate. Also, could all be a waste of effort since I note that the last MOT it had advised: "Offside Rear Leaf spring deteriorated but not seriously weakened (2.4.B.1a)". The extra expense is unwelcome, but it's worth it to save the pain. I've gone with Jones Springs, here in Blighty.
Cliff

1981 109 V8 Stage 1
2000 Discovery 2 Td5

109 V8: viewtopic.php?f=6&t=2161
My Disco Thread: http://www.thed2boysclub.co.uk/viewtopi ... =3&t=58130

LAND ROVER. TURNING OWNERS INTO PAUPERS FOR 70 YEARS
Cliff4WD
Posts: 332
Joined: Fri Aug 10, 2018 2:39 pm
Location: Rye, East Sussex, UK

Re: Restoration

Post by Cliff4WD »

Whoever would have thought that one bolt in an axle drive flange could be so difficult. Glad I'm not having to do a "bush" repair. If you remember, I had the one bolt that just wouldn't shift and eventually sheared while trying to get it loose.

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No problem I thought, just weld on a nut and with all that heat involved in doing so, it should come off easy. I duly welded on a nut ...

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... and tried again to free the bolt. Absolutely having none of it! No mater what I tried, more heat, shock, etc., it was stuck fast and not shifting. Eventually, the nut sheared off. I repeated the exercise with a second nut that I welded on much more than the first, still didn't work and sheared off again. Time for plan B then. I cut the bolt off flush and carefully found the centre and punched it ready for drilling.

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Now, as anyone whose done this knows, finding and drilling straight and dead centre is not so easy, it does take a bit of care unless you have centring jigs or other aids. I just had to do my best and hope for the best. The risk of damaging the thread is high and to be honest, I'm not so confident that a thread insert would be a good option in this situation (probably be alright I guess, but reserve that for plan C).
I drilled the bolt using successive larger diameter bits until I was almost right there on the thread. It's a 3/8" BSF thread in there and would require an 8.3mm drill bit. Closest I have is an 8mm, so that's what I went up to. I was bound to be a bit off-centre anyway so 8mm was the limit if I was to avoid plan C. Fortunately, seems I managed to drill the bolt away and stay concentric without damaging the thread.

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It was this point I realised that I didn't have a 3/8" BSF tap. More money to spend on tools then and more delay. The price of tools is shocking so toss up between HSS or cheaper Carbon Steel tap (I'm probably not going to use it again), so found an affordable one at Engineering Supplies https://www.engineeringsupplies.co.uk/ and put that in my basket. Shame about the VAT and carriage as this more-or-less trebled the cost. Anyway, needs must.

Tapped the thread clean today

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and checked that a new bolt will fit

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Relieved that another annoying distraction is out of the way. I'll finish cleaning up the hub and flange ready for paint and re-assembly.
Cliff

1981 109 V8 Stage 1
2000 Discovery 2 Td5

109 V8: viewtopic.php?f=6&t=2161
My Disco Thread: http://www.thed2boysclub.co.uk/viewtopi ... =3&t=58130

LAND ROVER. TURNING OWNERS INTO PAUPERS FOR 70 YEARS
Cliff4WD
Posts: 332
Joined: Fri Aug 10, 2018 2:39 pm
Location: Rye, East Sussex, UK

Re: Restoration

Post by Cliff4WD »

The rear propshaft looks to have suffered quite a bit of surface rust, but the joints and sliding spline seem to have been maintained. However, the UJ on one end was stiff on the shaft yoke side. No problem, just whip out the spider and pop a new one in (thanks Map for confirming UJ part number). Nothing ever goes so simple though. That joint was in tight. I only have hand tools, clamps, and bench vise; no press, so it took a bit of effort and a lot more time than planned for, but eventually I got it out.

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Just as well state of that one cup

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After an awful lot of wire brushing and treating with phosphoric acid to convert the rust, the shaft looked a lot better

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I spent a lot more time treating any remaining rust that was visible anywhere so that all the axle and brake parts were nice and black from the acid conversion.

The axle looks a whole lot different now to how it started.
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It was now time for painting everything. I'd bought a 1:1 epoxy mastic paint to protect from future rust damage, so it was time to spray it on.

These photos are wet paint shots, so the gloss look should die down

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[Now if I can just sort out which of the brake backplates is LH and RH (I cannot for the life of me work out what's the difference?) I'm worried I have two of the same and not a pair.]

Edit: Sussed it. Actually it's pretty self answering once you actually try and refit the plates. The Bolt hole alignment only works if each plate is on the correct side, and the drain holes in the plate are dead bottom to align with the stub axle cutout. It was the drain holes that gave it away, as they are left and right of the bottom bolt hole on the plates. As for the adjusters, well, I was holding the leading edge shoes in place and trying to work out which side was which and scratching my head for quite a while before the penny dropped. Anyway, I'll crack on with re-assembly tomorrow; today is a day of rest don't you know. 😇
Cliff

1981 109 V8 Stage 1
2000 Discovery 2 Td5

109 V8: viewtopic.php?f=6&t=2161
My Disco Thread: http://www.thed2boysclub.co.uk/viewtopi ... =3&t=58130

LAND ROVER. TURNING OWNERS INTO PAUPERS FOR 70 YEARS
Cliff4WD
Posts: 332
Joined: Fri Aug 10, 2018 2:39 pm
Location: Rye, East Sussex, UK

Re: Restoration

Post by Cliff4WD »

Nothing exciting to add to the rather mundane axle refurbishment chapter, but I'll carry on anyway for completeness.

I'm pleased with the paint so far, it's cured nice and hard and looks like it will afford a great deal of protection. Obviously this one is a UK product, but I'm thinking similar 1:1 epoxy mastics will be much the same https://www.rust.co.uk/product/cat/em12 ... ing-paint/

After all my unnecessary fretting about the backplates, etc., I got on and refitted them.

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As I said, align the small drain hole at the bottom of the plate with the cutout section on the stub axle flange.

I then refitted the brake cylinder and shoes

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All good, the snail adjusters are engaging with the pegs on the shoes and doing their job.

Time for the hub. With the inner bearing cleaned and re-packed with grease, with it in place, fitted a new seal

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The hub slid on the stub and outer bearing nicely, shim and nut on, tighten and adjust for end float.

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Spec for end float is 0.05mm - 0.12mm; I adjusted to 0.05mm (yes I know most just tighten up and then slack off a bit)

Fittted the lock nut and lock washer, and then put the brake drum back on. The brake shoes were adjusted in case I forget later.

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It was then drive flange on drive shaft, refit the drive shaft, bolt it tight, and fit a new cap. I forgot to take photos of any of that what with greasy hands and all.

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All torqued and happy. All repeated of course on the other side.

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So, with that out of the way, I'm refitting the diff cover, new breather, and then it will be brake lines. Just waiting on some CuNiFer to arrive.
Cliff

1981 109 V8 Stage 1
2000 Discovery 2 Td5

109 V8: viewtopic.php?f=6&t=2161
My Disco Thread: http://www.thed2boysclub.co.uk/viewtopi ... =3&t=58130

LAND ROVER. TURNING OWNERS INTO PAUPERS FOR 70 YEARS
User avatar
Mik
Posts: 259
Joined: Wed Sep 20, 2006 10:25 am
Location: Denmark

Re: Restoration

Post by Mik »

Wow, that's nice!
Michael
1965 109 FC SIIA
1982 109 V8 SIII CSW Stage One
1982 109 V8 SIII HCPU Stage One
1990 RRC Vogue SE
Cliff4WD
Posts: 332
Joined: Fri Aug 10, 2018 2:39 pm
Location: Rye, East Sussex, UK

Re: Restoration

Post by Cliff4WD »

Continuing on, smeared some hylomar blue and fitted a new diff cover gasket before bolting the cover back on. The cunifer pipe had arrived, so made up the brake lines.

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The lines will be fixed to the brake pipe shields when the next parts order arrives and the axle and shields get refitted.

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Next on my list was to give the chassis some attention. I'd pressure washed it and removed a layer of old dry mud and dirt. Although absolutely sound and free of any rust, the galvanised surface of the rear end is very different to the front. The section that was under the tub has a rough texture,

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this is in marked contrast to the front section which is still quite smooth by comparison

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Anyway, I set to and coated it with oil to give it a bit more protection. I just brushed it on so that it was well soaked

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I've ordered up a whole load of stuff, inc. new exhaust hanging hardware and rubbers, etc., so removed the rear section and got it out of the way of the spring shackles that were still in place. The shackles unbolted relatively easily, but the front spring to chassis pin bolts were seized solid in both springs. I spent a very long time trying to get them free so that I could remove the springs I'd left hanging, but it wasn't happening. I
had no choice other than to resort to cutting the bolts. Even that wasn't straight forward as there isn't enough clearance for the 115mm cutting disc on the grinder; I need a bigger grinder or a reciprocating saw. Anyway, I managed, but it was a right ball ache.

Next up was the fuel tank. Now this had been replaced by the previous owner shortly before I bought it from him. He'd seem sealed it, but I don't think he did much else to it. It looks like a Britpart tank to me (definitely aftermarket), it had already started to rust in a few places and the crappy powder coating was flaking off in some areas. I don't know why powder coating is seen as so great a thing as it seems overrated at best. I decided to give it a coat of the epoxy mastic.

So a lot of pre paint prep

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and then sprayed it

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That's it for now then untill stuff arrives. I'm hoping the new springs make an appearance soon so that I can get the axle back on. That will pretty much be the mechanicals completed and the bodywork/painting can commence in earnest.

TTFN
Cliff

1981 109 V8 Stage 1
2000 Discovery 2 Td5

109 V8: viewtopic.php?f=6&t=2161
My Disco Thread: http://www.thed2boysclub.co.uk/viewtopi ... =3&t=58130

LAND ROVER. TURNING OWNERS INTO PAUPERS FOR 70 YEARS
disco2hse
Posts: 1648
Joined: Sun Apr 27, 2008 3:51 am
Location: Auckland NZ

Re: Restoration

Post by disco2hse »

Do you think the oil on the galv will give it long lasting protection? I've had good results with both waxoyl and lanocote grease (no the spray version, that dried off and went powdery over time).
Alan

1983 ex-army FFR 109 Stage 1
2005 Disco 2 HSE TD5
Cliff4WD
Posts: 332
Joined: Fri Aug 10, 2018 2:39 pm
Location: Rye, East Sussex, UK

Re: Restoration

Post by Cliff4WD »

disco2hse wrote: Sun Jun 09, 2024 2:06 am Do you think the oil on the galv will give it long lasting protection? I've had good results with both waxoyl and lanocote grease (no the spray version, that dried off and went powdery over time).
Well, as far as I can ascertain, the original restoration and rebuild on this chassis took place in 1996, so it's been in use now for about 28 years with no other protection than the zinc coating. I have no history other than the original rebuild date of the engine, but it seems logical that the then new chassis would have been purchased at the same time. In that time, the zinc has done its job well and it hasn't rusted anywhere, just the surface zinc oxide where it has come into contact with water and salt. (I have my suspicions that the vehicle may have been used to tow and launch a boat, which may account for the rear end surface oxidation).
Oil is a water repellent, so, same as any grease/oil protection system (Lanoguard, etc.), it helps to stop road salty water/mud from sticking and attacking the surface. Like any protective coating, it is sacrificial and will dry and lose its protective properties over time. Frankly, under body and chassis protection like this is an annual maintenance task. I doubt that it is actually necessary, but I see no harm in adding the extra little protection while it's all accessible.
Cliff

1981 109 V8 Stage 1
2000 Discovery 2 Td5

109 V8: viewtopic.php?f=6&t=2161
My Disco Thread: http://www.thed2boysclub.co.uk/viewtopi ... =3&t=58130

LAND ROVER. TURNING OWNERS INTO PAUPERS FOR 70 YEARS
disco2hse
Posts: 1648
Joined: Sun Apr 27, 2008 3:51 am
Location: Auckland NZ

Re: Restoration

Post by disco2hse »

Sounds reasonable :)
Alan

1983 ex-army FFR 109 Stage 1
2005 Disco 2 HSE TD5
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