Restoration

[Cliff4WD]

I've now been out and removed the frame from the tank; results are pretty good all said and done. Yep, the welding wire didn't fare any better and had dissolved leaving the charger O/C; however, it had lasted long enough for the remaining rust to be converted/removed. I now know how to improve the setup next time.



This end looks much better now. I can see what needs repairing



And the hidden side is much improved, all that flakey rot no more.




And a video short by way of update.

https://youtu.be/LB0L3Wu7zRI?si=5435PonvqiQqh7L1

[Cliff4WD]

I almost forgot I had this thread it's been so long.
Repeated here for completeness:

Rolled back the tarp, cleaned away some cobwebs, cleaned a few other bits n bobs, then checked it was still turning over. Checked oil was pumping around to the rockers. Hopefully I can get back to work on it now the weather is warming up.

[Cliff4WD]

Checked I had No.1 piston at TDC after compression stroke and the distributor in correct position. Next it was fit the new Bosch coil and spark amplifier in place of the one on the dizzy. Connected up ignition feed to coil and the amp and earths. I took the HT lead off the dizzy and put a spark plug on it and tested coil and amp for spark. I have a nice big fat spark, so happy days. Next up is to jerry rig a fuel supply to the carb and see if it will fire up. It should do as it was running nicely before I had it all apart, but - I had it all apart! All being well, I should be able to set up the timing and then concentrate on getting the fuel tank hooked up to the fuel pump and have it running again.



The main jobs apart from all the remaining bodywork finishing and painting, are the rear brake lines, drum brakes, and suspension springs. Bodywork includes the doors which I think are going to need steel frame repairs, etc. I may go down the rolling restoration path if I can get it to that stage, but it's more likely I'll need to just crack on and get the work done while its where it is. Oh for an indoor space!

[Cliff4WD]

Put some fuel in the carb and cranked the engine, it fired and purred! I need to get a strobe and adjust the timing, but it sound lovely. Only stressful moment was a small fire at the carb after getting greedy and adding a bit more fuel . Won't be doing that again, good job I was prepared for such an eventuality. :oopsy:

I'll post a video when I have it plumbed in and timed properly. Happy days.

I'm now compiling a very long to-do list.

[Cliff4WD]

Here's a short video of first start up having connected up the fuel pump fed from a fuel can. I'd primed the fuel system and this was first of the ignition key after that.



https://youtu.be/sMwHE1FZ2DM?si=R1KY2OODZsXhJUz8

[disco2hse]

Thanks for the updates. The engine sounds great in the video.

[Cliff4WD]

Set timing today, took all of 3 mins! Oil pressure steady 30psi at idle. Not sure of temp but seems ok, cold/hot gauge normal. Trying to decide next job to get on with now.

[Mik]

Wow, nice progress Cliff!

[Cliff4WD]

Since all my efforts thus far have been at the front end of the vehicle, it's about time I did a bit more on the back half. I've obviously got to finish off several jobs I started but have not finished, but taking a linear approach makes for pretty slow progress. I need to get the tub off to move forward on several areas needing attention, so that's what I've been up to.
Typically, freeing nuts and bolts turned out to be less than straight forward. The fuel tank was also in the way of accessing nuts (none were captive) on the rear cross member. Dropped the tank with quite a struggle getting the rubber pipe free of the filler pipe. I managed to shear 5 of the 10 bolts holding the tub on the cross member, but got all the seat box side ones undone bar one which I had to cut off. Now in a lot of pain for my contorted efforts.

Just a couple of pics.





Question now is how I'm going to lift the tub off?

[disco2hse]

Yes, the rear end was obviously designed for assembly and not maintenance. The position of the rear fuel tank also makes removal of stuck chassis spring bushings something to pause about.

So far as removal is concerned, I think I would get some drums or items similarly stable and use a jack to lift the tub, then shove boards across when each corner of the tub is high enough. Alternatively, if you have a stack of billets you could use, then raising each corner one billet at a time with the aid of a jack. A bit slow but I have done this lifting an ancient fishing boat.

[Cliff4WD]

After fixing my house central heating/hot water system, I managed to find time to have another look at my tub
First things was to pull the rear light wiring through, then free the stays at the front from the seat belt anchor points, and the 2 stays for the side seals. It was then a matter of jacking it up a bit to confirm it's free from the chassis and testing the lifting concept. All seems good, so time to empty it all out and decide where to put it.
Seems like a 3 man job to lift it to me; not light at all.

Clear at the front



Lifted free of the chassis and supported on a couple of 4x2s

[disco2hse]

Put the tub on drums, etc. and suspended by the boards.

If the tub is pointing to the back of the shed (engine to the front), can you roll the chassis assembly forward? This will leave the tub in the air and then stick a dolly under it for moving around. Or a trailer if one is handy.

If the tub is to the front, can it be raised above the firewall?

[Cliff4WD]

Thanks for your help. That would work well "if" the chassis was on wheels and could be rolled. Of course, in my scenario, I need the tub out of the way so that I can work on the chassis, remove the rear axle, springs, etc., while it's under cover. Not a problem though as I'll shift the tub with some help. Mind you, I have a lot of work that needs doing to the tub. The floor support cross struts are all rotten, so it might actually make more sense to leave the tub where it is for now and remove the floor from it first. Hmmm, I might have to have a rethink on the best way forward.

[disco2hse]

Sorry, I thought you had wheels on it.

okaaay then. Can you afford to hire a little digger or fork lift for a morning? Maybe some local Landie nut who has one who could help out?

A one ton digger with no bucket would easily lift it out, walk it backwards and plonk the tub on the ground

[Cliff4WD]

Having been pondering next steps, I decided to first off, get the rear tub emptied of everything sitting in it and reorganise my workspace. Actually, the tub isn't that heavy, but it is a pretty awkward thing to lift and manoeuvre without at least 2 people. However, I could pivot it off off the rear cross member utilising a couple of lengths of timber to aid it sliding. I have managed to get it off of the chassis without help and will get a second pair of hands to help shift it to a more convenient spot. I made a short video.

https://youtu.be/HYz2qaG45DU?si=4meI_b9dr_l-0A5i