ENGINE JUST DIES!!! Then Lives, then dies....

[robertstr]

Merry Xmass to everybody here!!

So FRUSTRATING UPDATE, I got the new ignition, and WOW, what a difference
, can had about 30 plus percent more power and
proceeded to run like a bat outta hell, SWEET! ...I had zero idea this was such an
important part of the car, lol......... SO thats the good bits

The UGLY, two days later, exact same problem returned, runs fine for 30 mins or so, and then just
dies , only difference now it dies pretty much AT or Coming to a stop. So seems I still have something
else going one, any ideas would be great....

ALSO random question, does anybody know the bulkhead this stage one would have?, I am not sure if its totally unique, if so
which one is it closest to the 90, 110 or just the plane series111?

[disco2hse]

Subject: ENGINE JUST DIES!!! Then Lives, then dies....

Merry Xmass to everybody here!!

So FRUSTRATING UPDATE, I got the new ignition, and WOW, what a difference
, can had about 30 plus percent more power and
proceeded to run like a bat outta hell, SWEET! ...I had zero idea this was such an
important part of the car, lol......... SO thats the good bits

The UGLY, two days later, exact same problem returned, runs fine for 30 mins or so, and then just
dies , only difference now it dies pretty much AT or Coming to a stop. So seems I still have something
else going one, any ideas would be great....

ALSO random question, does anybody know the bulkhead this stage one would have?, I am not sure if its totally unique, if so
which one is it closest to the 90, 110 or just the plane series111?

The firewall is series 3 with some changes for the larger gearbox.

What you describe looks like a timing issue. I have seen similar when the electronic ignitor is not forming the correct firing curve. It may also be the vacuum advance. Vacuum things to check: there are no splits inthe vacuum line, the distributor is tight (doesn't move), the ignitor unit is correctly situated in the distributor, the ignitor is not faulty, the distributor maybe worn, the graphite post in the distributor cap is not worn. You also check that your timing is set correctly. An additional thing to look at is a blown head gasket (do a compression test).

It does not look like a fuel starvation problem.

As I said before, dump the Mallory and go pertronix. One problem is that the split diode charging system sends massive spikes through the electrical system and the sensitive electronics get fried. They are designed to get spikes and shut down, then reset.

Pertronix are 12 v. You need to either use a voltage reducer or take your feed from one of the batteries, then install something to rectify the different draw from the two batteries. I use a charge balancing system, but others recommend a voltage sensitive relay.

[robertstr]

Ok, I will run through that list tomorrow, a buddy also mentioned to check for vapor lock, as in Florida its a common problem, Will start looking for fuel lines that
are coming to close to the engine and move em off..see if that was an issue. I am trying to hold off on redoing the Carbs and adding the protonix stuff, as I am
really thinking hard about swapping in a Merc 617. Thinking I will add the power steering as next project as that would just be nice for the wife, and is a pre curser
to adding the Merc. Dam I love this car, but spend way toooooooo much time thinking about it!!

Thanks for all the advise, its a hard problem to track down for sure so far!

[robertstr]

k, I seem to just keep proving my lack of machanical skills. I had a buddy tell me to check for spark when the engine dies by sticking in a screwdriver into a
plug lead and holding it next to any metal while somebody tries to crank it, ....sure enough NO SPARK. Then about a few mins later....spark and away she goes.

So I am going to start throwing parts at it starting with killing all that 24V Mallory hybrid NZ army thing.

I am going Pertronix and a flame thrower. I have scanned several of the threads here and
can not seem to get a real idea of Exactly what protronix unit to order, If anybody has this info
would be super appreciated, just dont want to order the wrong stuff (i do that a lot)

The distributor I have looks exactly like this with the 589ARMY tag on the side, I went to call summit and they kept thinking i had a lucas distributor, So
I am not totally what to order, any buddy who went down this path please chime in..

[disco2hse]

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pnx-9ml-182
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pnx-45111

[disco2hse]

As said already, the ignition is 12V, so you need to decide whether you are going to use a voltage dropper or take your feed from one of the batteries. The latter is the better option for protection against spikes, etc. but you also need to look at how you are going to take account of the draw differential between the two batteries. If you choose to do nothing, then you will need to replace the batteries more often. I have a charge equalising unit. Mine is industrial grade but Redarc do one that is lighter.

http://www.redarc.com.au/products/categ ... e-reducer/
http://www.redarc.com.au/products/categ ... equaliser/

[robertstr]

Thanks disco,
Question...about the 182 part, isnt that based on a lucas? I think this thing is a mallory unilite with optical sensor. Will it still work?
I am going to buy a step down from 24 to 12..but you are right..i did not think about spikes, hmmm
Cheers, again.

[disco2hse]

The Pertronix Ignitor is for Unilite Dizzy. It is a straight screw-in replacement to the Mallory optical unit. You will need to adjust the position of the ignitor about 15º because it is slightly different to the Masllory ignitor.

One thing I forgot to mention. The ignition switch (from the key) has a 24V feed. On mine, since I take the coil feed directly from the battery (and this acts as a "spike sump", so to speak) I have included a 60A, 24V relay with the feed 12V crossing over when it is closed. If you use the voltage reducer, you may be able to forego this part but make certain you include a heavy duty power filter to protect the reducer from spiking.

[robertstr]

SOME exciting news I think!!!!!!!

OK this may solve a lot of issues for x NZ army stage ones.... SO I was debating either to balance the batteries OR use 24 to 12 step down converter before the flame thrower. I was on the phone with Pertronix tech and he says......drumroll, why dont you just get the 24 volt version? I about stopped in my tracks....

SO you can order any pertornix product custom made in 24 volt!! About a whopping 30 US bucks more, made in about a week.
So after i make sure I have the right mallory dist body type, looks like I can just order the flame thrower..part number 40511
and a custom 9ml 182 for 24 volts, ...run straight to the ignition wire and pow, bobs your uncle. Unless I am missing something its a way
easier option than I have seen before, will take pics and post results.

Does anybody know the base model for the mallory that the army started with? Mine says 589 ARMY, but that does not cross over to anything.

[disco2hse]

Well now, that is interesting.

What about the ignitor? That is only 12V too.

As has been said before, the 9ml-182 ignitor goes straight into that dizzy. Let me reiterate for you...

The 9ml-182 ignitor goes straight into that dizzy.
The 9ml-182 ignitor goes straight into that dizzy.
The 9ml-182 ignitor goes straight into that dizzy.
The 9ml-182 ignitor goes straight into that dizzy.

[robertstr]

lol, disco...

I think I almost got the point. Talked to pertronix head geeks and he said that part number 40511 will do 24v and with special order for the 182 and you are
straight from key to engine, no problems , and under warranty.

Pertronix wont sell direct, so they sent me to a company that as they put it, wont screw up the custom order... 1800 685 1492 cbs electronics is the name
I think. But it seems a super easy solution to a lot of peoples headaches if it pans out. Ordering it up tomorrow will post with pics in about week or so.

Thanks for all the help from everybody.

[disco2hse]

Please keep us up to date on that.