Newbie from Virginia

Skye Stage 1 · Post by **Skye Stage 1** » Thu Jul 12, 2007 6:02 pm

Lovely Stage 1; like everyone else, I agree it looks much better without the stripe.

Re you brakes Q - I don't think it can be the calipers, as the Stage 1 was fitted with all-round drums. I can't remember off-hand what is the most common cause for pulling brakes (though it could be something basic like air in the system - I always check the very basics first), but it is a fairly simple system, so fixing it shouldn't be beyond you. If you don't have a manual, then search the internet for info on these braking systems - I'm sure you'll find something.

If you can't find any info, then post on here and I'm sure people with far more expertise than I will be able to help (though I'll happily assist if I can).

Londoner · Post by **Londoner** » Thu Jul 12, 2007 6:35 pm

If you need manuals then check out Jon's website as he has kindly scanned and posted the Series III and Stage One manuals.

http://stage1v8.org.uk/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=257

SPYDER ROVERS · Post by **SPYDER ROVERS** » Thu Jul 12, 2007 11:57 pm

It does sound as if it warrants going thru. I have rebuilt brakes on an old 1960 mercedes round body that consisted of merely cleaning the goonk out of the inside cups and seals. This freed up motion with no parts replaced. you could get that lucky. Dont forget to check the brake line to that caliper as a partial restriction may slow the pressure release. Good luck and please let me know what you find. Oh yes, if the seals are good check the fit and by all means reuse them but if you have any doubt, replace them. The cost and wait is more important than sacrificing family safety

Skye Stage 1 · Post by **Skye Stage 1** » Fri Jul 13, 2007 4:44 pm

Again, what Spyder Rovers says is helpful - you may just need to give the system a really thourough going over: when I bought my MGB the rear brakes (the drum brakes on the vehicle) were seized solid; all it took to get them up to, and beyond, MoT standard, was cleaning and adjusting.

Perhaps that should be the mantra of a Land Rover owner - 'clean and adjust'.

Larry · Post by **Larry** » Mon Jul 16, 2007 7:06 am

Perhaps that should be the mantra of a Land Rover owner - 'clean and adjust'.

. . . . . . and if that doesn't work, hit it with a big hammer!

Raggylad · Post by **Raggylad** » Mon Jul 16, 2007 12:34 pm

In Army-speak 'Tool, Fine Adjusting, 10 Lbs' !

Skye Stage 1 · Post by **Skye Stage 1** » Mon Jul 16, 2007 4:43 pm

Or how about 'Landrovers - not matter what colour, you'll soon turn the air blue'.

Sorry to have dragged this post off topic...

stirlsilver · Post by **stirlsilver** » Fri Jul 20, 2007 12:20 am

My car always tends to initially pull one way or another. And I think I have worked out why. The screws that are used to set the released position of the pads keep somehow undoing on me making one pad come in contact before the other!!! I think i'm going to have to take a file to the notches and make them a little deeper.

dlittle · Post by **dlittle** » Sat Dec 29, 2007 12:19 am

Thanks for all your help and sorry I have not given any update.

Update: Took off the left front drum and everything was covered in oil. Decided to rebuild the whole front end. Bought a new brake kit, balljoints and swivelball rebuild kit since the swivelball was rusty, pitted and leaked. Took it all apart and swivelball did not fit. Called parts place and they said "Sorry, the kit does not cover the Stage 1 and they don't make a replacement". Called around to see if I could get it rechromed. Found a place 30 miles from my home. Brought the swivelball in and the guy says I have chromed lots of these. I thought he was out of his mind. Turns out that RoversNorth sends their swivelballs to this guy to be rechromed. Three days later and $150 US less in my wallet, I had a most beautiful completely rechromed swivelball. I almost hated to get it all dirty.
Everything went back together without a hitch.

Again, thanks for all your help.

Dane

Bumpkin · Post by **Bumpkin** » Sat Dec 29, 2007 8:04 am

Sounds to me like a pretty good deal, especially getting them back in 3 days.Nice one.
Tel

AAXD · Post by **AAXD** » Wed Jan 30, 2008 6:52 am

Thats a beautiful stage 1 you have there. It's amazing what some rubbing compound and a little elbow grease can do to old paint. Here are some before, after and after-after pics of my Stage 1. The original african paint was faded pretty badly,

but after a few hours I had it looking like this.

I originally intended to replace the front wings and spray them to match the rest of the paint. A friend told me my truck was Lincoln green so I had a few gallons mixed up. When the paint arrived it turned out to be real Lincoln green, which I liked even more than the color on the truck, so off came all the paint. Heres how she looked after the repaint and replacement front body work from a donor NADA Series Three and Defender 90 bonnet.

dlittle · Post by **dlittle** » Mon Feb 11, 2008 4:24 pm

Great looking Stage 1. I looks like you had to do a little more work than I did. I had seen your Stage 1 somewhere and read about it. That is where I got the idea and the name of the polishing compound. It does do wonders. I am thinking of painting the bonnet since it did not come back after the polishing. The Stage 1 came with a quart of red paint but it was the wrong color red. I think the correct color is maize red and it came with a can poppy red paint.

Next project is rebuilding the steering box/relay. Lots of play in the steering.

landdani · Post by **landdani** » Tue Oct 21, 2008 8:14 pm

Hi dlittle, nice one, how do you worm your self in winter? I have a bad heater.
Hi terry, what is the correct web site for Clifton? I did not find it on www.clifton.com? I want the chesk the VIN.
What is special about (county) model ?

Bumpkin · Post by **Bumpkin** » Tue Oct 21, 2008 8:40 pm

http://www.clifton.nl/contact.html
Try this.
Tel