West Aussie Stage 1

Greg White · Post by **Greg White** » Thu Apr 27, 2006 8:11 am

Hi Folks

I am the proud, allbeit recent owner ove a series 3 stage 1 Land-Rover.
I am mostly enjoying the experience apart from the fuel bills and an ongoing tuning issue that i am having .

I live in the South West of Western Australia.

Managed to get the landie out into the bush a few times now. Mainly Sw west and South Coast. I am planning a trip out to Kalgoorlie ( red Desert country) in the next couple of weeks

The Rover is an Australian built 1982 Series 3 Stage 1, 3.5 ltr V8, constant 4x4 Station Wagon with safari roof. Its pretty original apart from a electronic ignition system and upgraded front axels that I have fitted.

ever noticesd that 4X4 and $X$ require the same keystrokes?

I have heaps of jpg's. cant find how to post them.

Regards Greg

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jonnyboy · Post by **jonnyboy** » Thu Apr 27, 2006 10:54 am

Hi Greg, Welcome to the forum.

If you want to post pictures you will need to upload them to a website first. Photobucket is used by a lot of people.

Once you have your pictures uploaded, right click one and go to its properties and then copy the Addreess (URL). If you then paste that address into your message between image tags [img]and[/img] the pictures should appear.

Does that make sense?

Jon

arcticrover · Post by **arcticrover** » Thu Apr 27, 2006 8:38 pm

Hey weren't a lot of the Australian Stage 1s fitted with LR approved 4.4 V8s? I seem to remember reading about that in the Series III Performance book . . .

Bumpkin · Post by **Bumpkin** » Sun Apr 30, 2006 6:54 am

Greg
Welcome to the forum. Members from every corner here.
terry

Greg White · Post by **Greg White** » Wed May 03, 2006 3:07 am

Thanks for the welcome folks.

The engine varriant that artic rover mentions probably from a leyland P76.

My Land-Rover V8 Supplement "repair Operation Manual Supplement (1981) doesnt mention any other V8 other than the 3.5 ltr Rover.

The P76 was a large Australian built sedan, renowned for its unreliability , poor build quality, and that you could fit a 44 gallon drum in the boot. which was handy given the fuel economy.
There are P76 clubs in Aust for total masochists with to much money.

speaking of masochism, my landy has just returned from the local Land Rover dealer no better than when i took it there.

It has been running very rough, I thought this must be a distributor issue so i replaced the points with a optical electronic system,. Cleaned the fuel filters, adjusted the timing , changed carb diaphrams. still no better so i bit the bullet and sought professional help.

They think that the zenith stombergs need overhauling.( they cant find any other cause for the performance problem)

So the issue is now , whether to persist with the strombergs or convert to another system.

That of course throws up the issue of originality . At the momment I just want the rover to go so i can get out there and enjoy it.

Any thoughts gentlemen?

Also found this excellent site that may be of interest http://www.csse.monash.edu.au/~lloyd/4/LandRover/

Thanks and regards Greg

Bumpkin · Post by **Bumpkin** » Wed May 03, 2006 5:46 am

Exactly what do u mean by running rough?
tel

Kiwistage1V8 · Post by **Kiwistage1V8** » Wed May 03, 2006 8:42 am

Greg White wrote:

They think that the zenith stombergs need overhauling.( they cant find any other cause for the performance problem)

So the issue is now , whether to persist with the strombergs or convert to another system.

Any thoughts gentlemen?

Yep. 4 barrel holley and a manifold to suit.

easy to tune, and better fuel economy than the twin stormys

I slapped a 465 holley and edelbrock performer on mine, and have been pleased as punch with the results

Alternatively, the Buick 215 (rover 3.5 in disguise) came out with a twin throat downdraft carby. I am sure that the 350/500 holley 2 barrel would go straight on.

foggydave · Post by **foggydave** » Fri May 05, 2006 5:37 am

I have just put a 4 barrel weber on mine
More grunt
Better mpg
Far more responsive

Remember though that the exhaust will need uprating as all that air going in has got to get out.

Regards Dave

Ginga · Post by **Ginga** » Fri May 05, 2006 8:20 am

foggydave wrote:I have just put a 4 barrel weber on mine
More grunt
Better mpg
Far more responsive

Where did you get them from?
How long did it take you to fit them?
Any Problems?
The big one - How much???

Regards

Ginga

jonnyboy · Post by **jonnyboy** » Fri May 05, 2006 10:49 am

I have looked into fitting a 4 barrel carb before and got put off by the price. You are looking at £4-500 for the carb and manifold. You may be able to get it cheaper from the states where these are more common.

foggydave · Post by **foggydave** » Fri May 05, 2006 10:24 pm

I was really lucky ( in the right place at the right time)

A mate was going to uprate a V8 in an old MG but never got round to it, then ran short of cash soooooo

1 brand new 4 barrel Weber
1 Edlebrock manifold
1 Real Steel high lift cam
1 set Rhoades lifters

All for £200

Also just bought a crane off him for £50

Does,nt happen often.

The Weber and manifold fitted ok but had to buy a special thermostat housing from RHP

Ran perfect first time but took it to my mates garage who just adjusted the mixture a tad

Webers seem to be recommended over Holly carbs as they stay in tune better

MPG went from 14 mpg to 17mpg although there is a great temptation to just floor it at times Given the cost of buying brand new off RHP or Real Steel etc I don,t think I would have done it but at £200 could not resist.

I have not fitted the cam or lifters yet as I am trying to get hold of a 3,9 engine and make it all worthwhile power wise as I have a low comp 3,5 engine at the moment.

Just fitted tubular manifolds and chopped a Range Rover exhaust to fit but have not run yet as I am doing new foot wells/front inner seals and other stuff etc so off the road for a few months.

mattv8 · Post by **mattv8** » Tue Mar 27, 2007 8:14 pm

if your prob is that (only way i can explain it is as a stamer when u put your foot down or can run roughly) its a earthing fault. the best way i was told to sort it is to take a wire from the battery to a dash mounted switch then to the live side of the coil, no fues uesd, so when you turn on your ignition, flip the switch on n then start, when you turn ignition off youl have to flip the switch off to stop the engine, but i found it was a lot better. ive also put in a fuel pump cutt off switch, for sev resones, you can work on things tha need the ignition on n not have the pump gpin constantly n also if any thevin sod trys to nic your most pressious item, well they wont get far if the fuel pump isnt workin will they!!!!!