some exotic Stage 1 in Germany

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disco2hse
Posts: 1601
Joined: Sun Apr 27, 2008 3:51 am
Location: Auckland NZ

Re: some exotic Stage 1 in Germany

Post by disco2hse »

Outstanding! :D
Alan

1983 ex-army FFR 109 Stage 1
2005 Disco 2 HSE TD5
tomo_
Posts: 19
Joined: Tue Jul 05, 2016 11:37 am

Re: some exotic Stage 1 in Germany

Post by tomo_ »

nice!
can't wait to get my engine kick in. im in the middle of the project as well but standard 109 and way behind your progress.
Def 110 200Tdi, work in progress on Stage 1
FBW
Posts: 51
Joined: Sun Dec 20, 2020 10:41 am
Location: southwest of Germany

Re: some exotic Stage 1 in Germany

Post by FBW »

disco2hse wrote: Wed Apr 21, 2021 9:20 pm Outstanding! :D
tomo_ wrote: Thu Apr 22, 2021 4:58 am nice!
can't wait to get my engine kick in. im in the middle of the project as well but standard 109 and way behind your progress.
Thank you very much, I am happy if you like my work.


greeting
Frank



I still had an e-fan in the fund. The placement is due to the fact that, with a little luck, I will get a second, identical one.
The fan mask stays that way.
... yes, yes, there is a strut in the middle!

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... and then the second fan was in the mail.
That is really tight in the fan cowl. But what doesn't fit is made to fit. The black thing is made of thermoplastic :wink:

Sawn out insert

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... warmed up the bottleneck with the burner and clamped everything together.

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The missing millimeters bulge ;)

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The second fan was once installed in front of the cooler. You just have to loosen the clip, pull off the fan wheel, turn it around and clip it back on.

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But the clip is stuck> needle-nose pliers >> ... it's out >> ... pling !! >> ... he's gone :o :x :twisted:
For over half an hour I search the workshop floor on all fours ... in vain Image

Where can I get such a clip from >> O.k. do it Yourself.
It is stupid when the fan is mounted behind the cooler, the load pulls the fan wheel in the direction of the clip from the shaft and thus in the direction of the cooler >> coolers are expensive! The craft solution must be absolutely secure:

„et voila“ Clip made from the turn of a matching spiral spring. The washer is countersunk so that it presses the clip into the groove.
There are also wire fuses. It'll hold up better than the original. Image

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there we have the airy duo Image

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greeting
Frank
FBW
Posts: 51
Joined: Sun Dec 20, 2020 10:41 am
Location: southwest of Germany

Re: some exotic Stage 1 in Germany

Post by FBW »

Hello everyone


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The long wait for the painted tub...


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... has come to an end!



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... you slowly see what it should be Image

There are still too many little things to do. These sometimes take a long time, and when you are done with it you don't see any of the effort. :P
Bulkhead aligned and fixed.

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Bright spots at the rear

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Seat box completed.
The right storage box was drilled out before painting. There weren't any on the left, there was an additional side tank. Replacement has been waiting in the fund for a long time.

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stubborn, pimped up and stapled together.
For that she had to be opened the second pack of 500 cup rivets :shock:

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.. again something for the eye!



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The sheet metal between the upper and lower part of the dashboard is normally black. Like many other things, the thing was painted in limestone.
After thinking about it for a while, the idea came up to leave it that way. So the shelf is not such a dark hole. I like itImage

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You can now accelerate too!

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... but don't heat it up yet. :) . Something is still missing.
E.g. the aluminum pipes from the engine to the heat exchanger. I don't have it, I have to tinker with it.

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Currently there is still a very rare special component installed :o :P

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greeting
Frank
FBW
Posts: 51
Joined: Sun Dec 20, 2020 10:41 am
Location: southwest of Germany

Re: some exotic Stage 1 in Germany

Post by FBW »

Gordian knot also called wiring harness

The thing is in pretty good condition and apparently unencumbered. Which is not to say that everything is OK. is.

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The line running through the frame to the rear is probably torn off when you pull it out of the frame. When looking through whether it got something else, I found a thickening. As a precaution, I took a close look at them.
oha! The cables were lengthened at the factory (!). Image

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... after my surgery it looked like this ...

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And here the "new", ready-to-install cable for the rear.

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It doesn't look much better, but you could say that "the mess now has a system" :D

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Pulling in the wiring harness is not one of my favorite tasks!
You need a bit of variety in between Image

The brake lines between the master brake cylinder and the brake circuit failure valve, or whatever it is called, were still in great shape, so I wanted to reinstall them. Unfortunately, the "in good shape" only referred to 95%. The last two inches to the failure valve were rotty ... too rotty! Since the rest of the brake pipe would not have been enough anyway, I ordered two pieces and replaced the last few cm.

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Then the water pipes to the heating heat exchanger were tinkered.
I got a suitable aluminum pipe at a trusted hardware store. Warmed up with a soft flame until it can be easily bent.


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It is a pity that you will no longer see the beautiful pipes behind the air filter box.

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In most areas, the Landy has a nice, logical structure and is easily accessible.
The developers did not have a good day with the dashboard and the wiring behind it. It is absolutely incomprehensible to me how one can build such a botch in series Image


To compensate, I always have to look for a job that is more fun.

Holder for the AHK socket including wiring harness made from existing material.Image

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The main wiring harness remains unchanged.
>> I had already worked up the engine wiring harness.
>> I had to make all the wiring harnesses to the rear. I didn't want to leave the "original" piece like that. The new main wiring harness to the rear now corresponds to the original, except for the stretched length.
>> At the same time, I tinkered another strand that organized the connections to the gearbox and a separate power supply to the rear.

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A long time ago I installed additional 12V + USB sockets including switches and volt meters on the Shorty. This has proven itself and is also implemented 1: 1 with the Sandy.

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Everything is connected at the back. I think I mentioned it that I put a thick cable with a secured permanent plus to the back. Among other things, it supplies a relay for driving. The original cable now only switches the relay.
It's pretty easy to see what's on it.

2x taillight +
2x license plate lights +
2x taillight on the trailer +
1x license plate light on the trailer

... and the electricity does not only run through the thin cable but also through the light switch, the switch on the steering column stalk and the ignition lock!
The measure relieves all of this and, as you can see, it is secured separately again.

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.. Everything was already fixed..

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... and even here there is a legitimate chance that the lid will fit on it at some point ... Image

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... let there be light

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greeting Frank
disco2hse
Posts: 1601
Joined: Sun Apr 27, 2008 3:51 am
Location: Auckland NZ

Re: some exotic Stage 1 in Germany

Post by disco2hse »

:lol: :lol:
> It is absolutely incomprehensible to me how one can build such a botch in series Image

It is the delights of British motor vehicle manufacturing.
Alan

1983 ex-army FFR 109 Stage 1
2005 Disco 2 HSE TD5
tomo_
Posts: 19
Joined: Tue Jul 05, 2016 11:37 am

Re: some exotic Stage 1 in Germany

Post by tomo_ »

Is just superb and also comprehensive description
Def 110 200Tdi, work in progress on Stage 1
FBW
Posts: 51
Joined: Sun Dec 20, 2020 10:41 am
Location: southwest of Germany

Re: some exotic Stage 1 in Germany

Post by FBW »

disco2hse wrote: Thu May 13, 2021 8:00 pm :lol: :lol:
> It is absolutely incomprehensible to me how one can build such a botch in series Image

It is the delights of British motor vehicle manufacturing.
... the truth has never been wrong :wink:

tomo_ wrote: Fri May 14, 2021 6:47 am Is just superb and also comprehensive description
thank you, I'm happy if you like the report...





continue with the seat box,

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Most of the cables stowed away, heating cables connected and additional driver entertainment installed. Image

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If you then put the floor panels and the transmission tunnel in the car, it almost becomes cozy :D

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... the cables and vacuum lines under the seat box were sorted and fixed.

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I still have to tidy up the front of the bulkhead a bit.
... well, what cables come together. :o

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Then the sheet metal in the footwell and the transmission tunnel were finally installed.
I sealed it with one-sided adhesive foam rubber. So it's halfway tight and you can get it apart again without fumbling.

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Unfortunately, I am missing a rubber grommet for the second vacuum switch, none of the usual suspects have this thing in their range.
The grommet can easily be fiddled with afterwards ... time will come rubber.

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I measured and aligned the distances between the Bulkhaed and the bathtub, but trying it on brings security.
... then fix one of the doors >> fits!

The color and the degree of gloss also work pretty well. Image

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Then you can continue with the rear structure.



The following idea has been tried out and worked on for a long time:
# Mount a side part of the 88 station at the rear.
# The angled rear section is cut off on another and mounted at the front.

So I have both the back and the front end in the sack and only have to take care of the middle.

So that's how:

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If you unscrew the front end from the side part then you already have a suitable transition for the middle piece.

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so I only have to tinker a suitable adapter
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So, the front side part slightly modified. That means cut off and with a few matching holes a right, front end strip can now be mounted on the back of the left side part. It looks like it has always been like that.
A suitably bent sheet metal comes in there. The profiles for the seal are stapled in at the top and bottom and the gap filler is ready.

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The side panels are fixed to the original points at the front and back. In the middle I put M8 screw nuts in the cappings. That should last.
The second page is in preparation ...

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... and a certain sense of space is created.

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here the intermediate pieces in their raw state

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..to complete the gap fillers, the separated corner pieces of the side parts were boned.
I need the guides for the top and bottom seals for the metal sheets.

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... snip, notch, drill, glue / rivet.

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The bottom bar is just glued. The glue now has to dry first.

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Then put the lid back on ... already looks like a Landy :o :shock: :D

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Unbelievable, because you can see how little longer the Sandy is compared to the standard 109.

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... the sunroof is still missing ;)

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Don't worry, I didn't tear up the Dormobile roof.
..it has always been proven to have several roofs in the fund Image

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greeting
Frank
FBW
Posts: 51
Joined: Sun Dec 20, 2020 10:41 am
Location: southwest of Germany

Re: some exotic Stage 1 in Germany

Post by FBW »

... then I want to continue reporting.
Coupling filled and bled >> works.

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Brake filled and bled >> almost works. The system is tight. In other words, when pressure is built up, the pedal no longer gives way.
There still seem to be one or the other bubble in the system. But unfortunately I have found that it is not a good idea to put empty cans next to full ones. Say to me the DOT3 went off :?
OK. then the vesicles now have a few days to collect and then be collectively removed. :D

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Then tinkered a pipe for the electric fan switch and installed the same.
One of the two electric fans is thermostatically switched and the other is manually switched.

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The ventilation flap seals are also missing. I installed them with Sikaflex. I've heard several times that Pattex is also popular. Unfortunately, you only have one chance with contact adhesives. If the seal doesn't sit in place, things get stupid quickly ...

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Window frame dismantled, pimped up, windows reinserted and assembled.

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The other panes were prepared for assembly and one of the short Santana Alpine windows was broken Image
Annoying but the damage is limited. The panes are (luckily) too long and would not have fit anyway. >> You can talk about everything nicely:P


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Then fetched the parts from the paint man.

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... looks strong Image



Of course I couldn't leave the nicely painted parts lying around ...
... then installed the window guides and attached the fixings.

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Seals on and off on the 6x6 ...

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One side is already assembled Image

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... the boy has to get some fresh air! Image






























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For logistical reasons I had to rearrange the garage. I think the device looks even better in daylight!

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And here the next step is being prepared ...

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greeting
Frank
FBW
Posts: 51
Joined: Sun Dec 20, 2020 10:41 am
Location: southwest of Germany

Re: some exotic Stage 1 in Germany

Post by FBW »

Great events don't just cast their shadows
... but also iron in the yard :D

Such a Dormobil roof is really rare. I'm afraid you don't have to search for a Sandringham 6 139 ". That doesn't exist.
>> So: Do it yourself. Image


For a long time I have been "brainstorming" how to get the roof shell connection done. I think it's like building a house if the foundation is no good it's nothing.
Then I came across something suitable just in time. A set of two-dimensional telescopic scaffolding trestles ... you really feel like screwing :D

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Unfortunately, there was once again no staff on site to lift the Dormobile roof to the scene. But, time will come, staff will come :)


Until then there was a short interim employment.
On the Dormobile roof, the "GRP REAR ROOF GUTTER MOLDING", i.e. GRP rain gutter, has crumbled. They're new for just under £ 80. That was too expensive for me because these things are not much good. A little carelessness and the part splinters.
It can be done better ...

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... aluminum profile from the trusted hardware store and the compression-stretching device attached ...

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... then riveted and glued.

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Then the Dormobile roof was stripped. The bunk beds and all interior panels removed.
Then separated the skirt hem :D

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... then the special metal sheets that organize the transition from the roof reinforcements to the Dormobile roof had to be removed.
Man was a dignity. There were rivets that were far too short. The wire was still in front of everyone. Thus it does not work with just a quick drill. It just went on under the metal sheets. The person who did that had a lot of things but certainly had no desire for this work :P

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Of course, the sheets were in the bucket afterwards :twisted:

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... but it's not that bad, I have one more sentence Image

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... then measure and draw the cutting line and forget about taking pictures :?




-- Dormobile roof slices --


... marked ...

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... roughly pre-cut ...

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...recut and sanded...

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...the entire range of tin snips was in use again... ;)

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Then let's cut the backside of the 88 roof :o

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The zigzag in the cut should serve the stability ... so far the idea :roll:

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... and what remains is a special truck cap

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I don't want to praise myself more than necessary ( Image ) But I like the result a lot better than the original Dormobile version.

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Then tried a few more times, made final corrections and ...
>> fits << Image

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The extension means that the Dormobile hood also has to be adjusted. The front end runs over the sloping front area from the roof. This has now been replaced by a high area. This means that the front edge of the GRP hood must also be shortened. No problem with the serrated lock washer, but a huge mess.
... after at least 10 times trying / marking / grinding etc. it now fits again.

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Everything is still just put together, but I think the biggest hurdle has been overcome Image

First I drilled everything in alignment and fixed it with the CLECO connecting elements.

The rivets on the top of the roof area are all within the "tent", so tightness is not critical.

To glue / seal a thick sausage Sikaflex came on the left and right. The two "swords" protruding forward were also coated with Sikaflex.
And of course the gutter filled.

Then put together again, aligned, fixed with CLECO's and riveted. At the very end I welded and sanded the frame.

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The tent skin had a few fox marks. I removed them with an "organic cleaner": shock: . Went wonderful. A few splashes also went on the hood. At first I was amazed at the resulting white spots on the dirty brown-gray inside.
At second glance I noticed that it was going to be clean too. :D
>> For the inside of the hood I already got some fabric to stick on. The topic is hereby deleted Image

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... I think I'm a giant step further.

greeting
Frank
disco2hse
Posts: 1601
Joined: Sun Apr 27, 2008 3:51 am
Location: Auckland NZ

Re: some exotic Stage 1 in Germany

Post by disco2hse »

Extremely impressive Frank.

I wondered how you were going to do it.
Alan

1983 ex-army FFR 109 Stage 1
2005 Disco 2 HSE TD5
User avatar
Mik
Posts: 227
Joined: Wed Sep 20, 2006 10:25 am
Location: Denmark

Re: some exotic Stage 1 in Germany

Post by Mik »

Fantastic - awesome work and machine!
Michael
1965 109 FC SIIA
1982 109 V8 SIII CSW Stage One
1982 109 V8 SIII HCPU Stage One
1990 RRC Vogue SE
FBW
Posts: 51
Joined: Sun Dec 20, 2020 10:41 am
Location: southwest of Germany

Re: some exotic Stage 1 in Germany

Post by FBW »

Mik wrote: Tue Jun 29, 2021 12:24 pm Fantastic - awesome work and machine!
disco2hse wrote: Mon Jun 28, 2021 11:31 pm Extremely impressive Frank.

I wondered how you were going to do it.
thank you very much for the nice comments... :D


...go on


The ventilation flap dismantled ...

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Ah, there we have the reason why the original hood is no longer fitted. There was once contact with the enemy!
Of course, I also patched the damaged area again (forget to take a picture :D )

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Test assembly of the hood seal >> fits <<

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Then I started mending the holes. That worked (until now :roll: ) easier than expected.

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... the next one please!

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I still have the big hole ...

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... next phase!


first move ...

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A little more spatula and then primed.

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Then dismantled the hood hinges ...

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"Painting booth" closed and first paint application ...

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I don't like it when screws or the like are simply brushed over.

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Since I didn't want to dismantle the tent skin and masking off the screw heads didn't really work, I cut a template and sanded the heads bare again.
For information: The screws are made of brass and get a brown patina from the water.

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Looks a lot better ... ;)

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Aufstellmechanik der Lüftungsklappe

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...prettified.

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Ditto the tent poles and the hood stand.
(... yes, yes, there is also some color around it!)

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Then the rest of the hassle was assembled and the roof rolled in the front area.

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A couple of seals fitted ...

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>> et voilà <<

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>> fits! << Image


... even in the garage :D

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greeting
Frank
FBW
Posts: 51
Joined: Sun Dec 20, 2020 10:41 am
Location: southwest of Germany

Re: some exotic Stage 1 in Germany

Post by FBW »

... finally a decent job again. :roll:


...I'll let the pictures speak for themselves Image

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The tailpipes only have approx. 5mm clearance in the elongated hole at the top and bottom and should of course not hit. They are fixed directly on the inside of the square tube. I still have to make a suspension.

For the right side, of course, I also cut all the parts to the same size, which should then be finished quite quickly.


Tinkered a bracket for the tailpipes.
The two pipes are screwed to an angle with a clamp each. This allows the pipe spacing to be set and fixed. The bracket is attached to large silent rubbers on both sides. These are screwed to the slider at the bottom. The height position is adjusted here with washers.
In this way, the tailpipes can be precisely adjusted to the oval. The whole thing is hung up flexibly, but cannot swing and strike very large.

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... I added a reinforcement under the oval. The opening takes away the stability of the square tube and it could be bent upwards if you sit down there stupidly. The thick-walled angle should prevent a lot. In the pictures above it was already there, but you can hardly see it due to the bevel. Image

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... next step >> galvanizer!

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The galvanizer did a quick and good job ...

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greeting
Frank
disco2hse
Posts: 1601
Joined: Sun Apr 27, 2008 3:51 am
Location: Auckland NZ

Re: some exotic Stage 1 in Germany

Post by disco2hse »

It reminds me of the cross member I made to replace the bulldozer blade under the transmission.

I wish the original manufacturer had taken so much care, but then I would never have been able to afford the one I have :lol:

Come to think of it, I need to keep mine because I cannot afford to buy one now! :shock:

Yours gives so much inspiration and mine is coming to the point in its life when it will need a complete rebuild (>330000 km of hard use).
Alan

1983 ex-army FFR 109 Stage 1
2005 Disco 2 HSE TD5
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