some exotic Stage 1 in Germany

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FBW
Posts: 51
Joined: Sun Dec 20, 2020 10:41 am
Location: southwest of Germany

Re: some exotic Stage 1 in Germany

Post by FBW »

ra ta ta ta Image


A Salisbury with Diff left! Image
Thanks to a lot of support from Australia, I got the cream. Image

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... and in with it!

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so I only need the right cardan shafts.

... further work on the rear tub can only continue when the parts are back from the galvanizer.
Until then, I'll turn to the topic of exhausts.


Originally the tailpipe runs to the right. This is only allowed in Germany with a special permit that is difficult to obtain.
Since the entire system is no longer the best anyway, I'll do it new and something different.

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It won't be the first exhaust system I build. Usually this is a very thankless task, where you spend hours under the car until the thing fits.
I still have an old V8 and another LT95 in my stock. With this I create a comfortable upside down solution. The gearbox is mounted on the V8 and turned around, at the perfect working height, in the workshop. So you can adapt the pipes perfectly. The car is right next to it so that the accuracy of fit can also be tested there.


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Craft supplies

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...and let's go...


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As you can see, you see nothing! I.e. the pot hangs high. ;)

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... and how do you like the result?


greeting
Frank
tomo_
Posts: 18
Joined: Tue Jul 05, 2016 11:37 am

Re: some exotic Stage 1 in Germany

Post by tomo_ »

Quite impressive I must say. I do standard Stage 1 HT now but it goes somehow slow.
Def 110 200Tdi, work in progress on Stage 1
FBW
Posts: 51
Joined: Sun Dec 20, 2020 10:41 am
Location: southwest of Germany

Re: some exotic Stage 1 in Germany

Post by FBW »

tomo_ wrote: Thu Feb 25, 2021 4:34 pm Quite impressive I must say. I do standard Stage 1 HT now but it goes somehow slow.
Hi tomo,
... I'm not as fast as it is here either. The construction of Sandy is a retrospective. I'm a little further on ...






The parts from the galvanizing are also back. The holes drilled out again and one or the other "snotty nose" sanded down.

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Unfortunately, three "visible parts" didn't turn out well. They have to go back to the zinc tub.

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So it can go on with the rear tub..

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Before the tub bottom comes in place, I want to finish the wheel arch.

First saw out the counter support for bending. Once hardwood for the inside, once for the outside.

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Sidewall cut to fit and what can I say ... well, it can be that easy Image

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Then the reinforcement bracket bent and riveted

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At the point where the two tubs are connected I glued / riveted a reinforcement bracket.

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The folded piece where the sill (rocker plate) is screwed on was also torn. The flank had twisted a bit there too.
So there was also a corner built in there. That reinforces the corner and at the same time straightens the flank.

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...the same procedure on the other side Image

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... then separated the last remains from the old tub floor. I left it in for stabilization

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Reinforcements riveted in

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... then "upside down" the base plate "inserted" and drilled with the wheel arches.

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The crossmembers are fixed

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and aligned the reinforcements, drilled and riveted.

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... 140 rivets later :shock:

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Then some more paint was applied

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Bottom plate completely drilled.

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Provide the contact surface with sealing tape, insert the plate, partially screw it down, forget about pictures.
Tub rotated, reinforcement profiles glued on.

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Crossmembers screwed and riveted ...

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... so the thing is largely finished Image

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greeting
Frank
FBW
Posts: 51
Joined: Sun Dec 20, 2020 10:41 am
Location: southwest of Germany

Re: some exotic Stage 1 in Germany

Post by FBW »

Hello everyone

I forgot to mention that before I riveted the floor in, I turned the tub and prettied it up inside.

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... the professional may outside!


Then it goes on at the exhaust.

ADDENDUM: For the whole system I got a five-pack of "universal axle bends" (there are a lot of bends for the money: O) and a 2m piece of straight pipe.
... that's about it:

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Then welded through the front part of the exhaust system:

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Unfortunately, my welding skills are not that good ... it doesn't work without grinding.
But I am sure that it will hold up and be tight. That’s what ultimately counts.

I wisely did not weld the first seam to the flange so that I could straighten it again. A little tick was also necessary.
Then a threaded bushing for a lambda probe was welded in.

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... don't worry, I'm not installing a catalytic converter. I have a lambda display so that I can test whether the carburetor setting is correct while driving.

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Then everything was put back on the car. During the all-round inspection, I discovered an error
I wasn't paying attention to the last correction. The distance to the cardan shaft was then OK. but the distance to the gear traverse was about 7 to 8 mm too little for me. The risk that the exhaust will hit is too great. So everything out again, separated at the appropriate place, a piece inserted, separated in another place, twisted, spotted, tried, etc. ... Of course there are no pictures :roll:



I had thought that I would have to go back to the pipes after the silencer. I only spotted them very lightly. There is always a certain risk to prepare something if there are still potential interfering contours missing. One tube has to be closer to the frame tube. But it was quite easy.

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Then again the "exit" checked .... fits!

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The supports for the rear tub are available except for two pairs.
Two in the back

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... and right at the front.

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It's good that I took them into account when designing the exhaust ;)

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Then ingeniously tinkered an exhaust bracket.

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greeting
Frank
tomo_
Posts: 18
Joined: Tue Jul 05, 2016 11:37 am

Re: some exotic Stage 1 in Germany

Post by tomo_ »

Take care of heat insulation, see exhaust in many places going close to chassis, shaft, etc.
Def 110 200Tdi, work in progress on Stage 1
FBW
Posts: 51
Joined: Sun Dec 20, 2020 10:41 am
Location: southwest of Germany

Re: some exotic Stage 1 in Germany

Post by FBW »

tomo_ wrote: Thu Mar 04, 2021 7:58 pm Take care of heat insulation, see exhaust in many places going close to chassis, shaft, etc.
Hi tomo

yes, you have to be careful. I have a distance of at least 1.5 cm everywhere. The Sandy is a big car but there is little space for the exhaust. I will attach the exhaust to strategic places to avoid bumping into it.




Trying on ...

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Exhaust fits!

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The filler neck is further back on the tub than on the flatbed.
Therefore the tank inlet had to be adjusted.

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Then looked through all the bottlenecks, "whether there is enough air"
... and lo and behold. It's too narrow at the front of the tank. There’s just ½mm clearance to the screws.
I still have to come up with something. :roll:

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The lower tailgate was drilled into the attached tub. As with all my Landys, this is posted on the right. Two of the lower hinges of the normal door are used for this.

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... then try whether you can dismantle the exhaust, even with the tub installed ...
even works! ... even without flex :D

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Struts mounted

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Then the tailgate worked up. The thing is quite good, but a few large holes spoil the look.

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Unfortunately I cannot weld aluminum. Then you think about one of the oldest connection methods. Immediately after gluing with birch pitch the rivets came up! ... then let's rivet that Image

Manges suitable round material a piece of square aluminum ground round and solution annealed via a burner.

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... sawed off a scrap.

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A piece of flat material with the same diameter as in the flap drilled through and countersunk on one side. The flat material is approx. 1 mm thicker than the sheet metal of the flap.

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Then put the piece of aluminum on the hole and apply pressure properly.

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The excess material was sanded off immediately

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... Voilà, there we have our rivets. Image

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Inserted into the hole, laid on tightly and riveted on the back.

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The visible side is still sanded ... the painter does the rest Image

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Then I welded and sanded the tailpipes.

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Now the tub can be taken to the painter ... ;)

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greeting
Frank
tomo_
Posts: 18
Joined: Tue Jul 05, 2016 11:37 am

Re: some exotic Stage 1 in Germany

Post by tomo_ »

good trick with exhaust.
welding alloy is tricky. Tried couple of times - metal needs to be super-clean. Otherwise oxidised alloy remannings are messing all up.
Need to get some pictures of my restoration 109HT into my thread finally :mrgreen:
Def 110 200Tdi, work in progress on Stage 1
FBW
Posts: 51
Joined: Sun Dec 20, 2020 10:41 am
Location: southwest of Germany

Re: some exotic Stage 1 in Germany

Post by FBW »

... and on it goes!



Next act: Bend and flare the brake lines again.

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The rubber hoses are still being replaced by performance steel braided lines

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The chassis, which was previously only plugged together, has now been finally screwed.
Damper mounted, axles finally screwed, axle control straps mounted. Leaf springs screwed >> only applied, finally tightened only at the very end, when there is load on the axles.

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The typical Series III brake failure valve is located in front of the passenger footwell. I overhauled that and installed a new switch. Unfortunately, the old one was firm.

Deviating from the standard, there is a branch in the front brake circuit (front right in the picture) which leads to the rear parallel to the rear brake circuit.

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The line connected to the front brake circuit leads to the right wheel of the center axle
In the rear brake circuit there is also a branch that leads to the left wheel of the central axle.
So each circle brakes three wheels!

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A line then leads to the rear axle.

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There should also be steel flex lines.

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... now I just have to convert the front wheel tubing to Santana. I do that when I button up the front axle.
It is finally assembled! BUT ... I'll take another look to be sure! Image

As you can see in the pictures, the chassis has gotten its fat. The external Mike-Sander assignment has "worn off" due to the tinkering and should of course be reapplied.

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greeting
Frank
FBW
Posts: 51
Joined: Sun Dec 20, 2020 10:41 am
Location: southwest of Germany

Re: some exotic Stage 1 in Germany

Post by FBW »

... it continues with the next assembly:

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... the clutch is brand new!

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... when I see the sealing compound sausages I get the crisis. How can you ... Image

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Allegedly: ... engine and gearbox were checked by a specialist ... "
... luckily you can see relatively easily what he had open Image

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>> Then we'll be curious to see what it looks like in the engine!

... so it can be 17.316 mls look under the valve covers :P

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... as already described above, a lot doesn't always help a lot! Image


Here you can see where this is going. The oil runs through the hole in the middle from the filter to the engine. Anything that can loosen there will clog the engine's lubrication holes! As I said, the engine and gearbox were at a specialist workshop that received money for this work! :P
... so professionally applied >> red engine death << ... luckily the engine has not yet been running since the fact.

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Engine cleaned and the necessary little things done. The remaining dirt is removed by two or three oil changes in quick succession.

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Then another set of SU's prepared. But they are only attached ... I still have a bit of work to do.

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:shock: :shock: ... I looked very carefully! The sealing compound on the "frost plug" in front of the camshaft alley is original. Fortunately, the specialist didn't have his fingers on it Image

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... the bearings on the old alternator were suspiciously loud ... then a new one should be installed.

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The engine wiring harness was covered with fabric. It was probably the turn of the moths: D
It had to be spruced up again. In the train, cables for the MSD and an electric fan came in.

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it will...


greeting
Frank
FBW
Posts: 51
Joined: Sun Dec 20, 2020 10:41 am
Location: southwest of Germany

Re: some exotic Stage 1 in Germany

Post by FBW »

Next act >> Front axle:

.. I'll see you again> red <

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Then out with that thing ...

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Thick paint is "smeared" over all screws ... I don't like that at all Image
And if you unscrew something, it looks like this underneath. I feared the worst Image

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All clear! Image ... at least on the left :roll:

Axle balls, thru axles, homokinets, plain bearings from the same, Railko and tapered roller bearings ... everything is OK.

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Then everything cleaned and greased and reassembled ... of course with new locking plates etc.

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Then dismantled the wheel brake cylinder. They were completely resinified but could still be saved!



Yes exactly! In order to be able to clamp the wheel carriers in a vice, I built a holding board. Thick board drilled, such a wheel carrier is quite heavy and adapted to the contours with the jigsaw >> done :D

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The routing of the brake lines on the wheel carrier was then changed. This is how you get the air out of the braking system ...

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... and dismantled the other side.
I was lucky too !! Image

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Chassis paint that is applied really thickly will certainly meet with positive approval.
But there are a few places where it doesn't work out that well. Fortunately, I had a photo from before the paint job and knew exactly where to look.
>> partial paint stripping Image

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... and then another horror job >> Replace tie rod ends.
Only with intensive use of a welding torch, WD40 and brute force could I persuade the things to terminate the connection of the tie rod ...

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It looks good on the drive side. Warehouse and Railco is also OK >> Clean everything up and nail it back together.

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The toothing has slight pressure points but no trace of torsion.

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I was able to save the wheel brake cylinders on the first page, but these are ripe for the bin.

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>> Fundus :D

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Of course, I also checked the oil filler plug of the ball housing, whether it was "passable", they can also annoy you ...

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Then tinker brake lines again.

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... the lines up to the main train station are still missing. The old ones still look perfect. I'll probably put them back in.
That could conclude the subject of the brake pipe. There was very little waste and still only a little bit left ... of 20m :o

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Front axle: Diff. expanded. There was so much paint on the screws it was almost impossible to get the nut over it: P
Here, too, everything is okay. >> Reseal and mount with new screws

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Then the wheel carriers were completed (I missed the mounting plates for the Sealing rings).
Leather gaiters greased and mounted together with the Sealing rings and retaining plates.

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mounted ...

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... and the wheel bolts were replaced by long ones (for the Wolf rims).

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greeting
Frank
FBW
Posts: 51
Joined: Sun Dec 20, 2020 10:41 am
Location: southwest of Germany

Re: some exotic Stage 1 in Germany

Post by FBW »

Go on

I didn't like the large amount of sealant on the front cover of the LT95. I'd rather have a look. Image


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The sealant would certainly not have bothered the bearings much (at first). What the grated stuff in the oil would have done in the long run is the question.
What is certain is that the oil pump would not have survived. In the upper area, 6 or 7 interdental spaces from the hol wheel were almost completely filled with sealing compound. I think after half a turn it would have sheared off the shaft of the drive wheel. It should be mentioned that the gears are made of a hard woven plastic. The gearbox, too, would sooner or later have broken down.


... a seal kit for the LT95 costs little money

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So I have to expand my statement:
... professionally applied >> red engine + gearbox killer <<
... luckily the engine and gearbox haven't been running since the fact.


Front cover and oil pump from LT95 with seal and very thin sealing compound installed.

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The slave cylinder is over too ...

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Reverse gear switch checked >> works!

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Then the "gear lever cover" was removed.

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Oh, it looks like new in there! : D ... very good, another ray of hope!

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... when the lid is off >> STOU filled! Cover, gear lever and hoses mounted ...

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... when I put the cover on, one of the shift rod locking springs tumbled into the gear train :shock:
A special tool helps again >> a small samarium cobalt magnet (they are extremely strong) plugged into a silicone tube results in a flexible magnetic rod ... perfect for fishing in cloudy conditions. Image

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then the flywheel mounted ...

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Axial run checked >> 0.025 is good enough

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Wedding!! ...or do you call it in this case reunification Image
(... oh yes, I also installed the clutch ...)

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The paint man is doing the tub Image

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greeting
Frank
disco2hse
Posts: 1591
Joined: Sun Apr 27, 2008 3:51 am
Location: Auckland NZ

Re: some exotic Stage 1 in Germany

Post by disco2hse »

I have never before seen an engine rebuilder use filler like that. One hopes that the bolt heads are tightened to correct specs.

We would not normally use gaiters in this part of the world. Mud, grit, and water can get trapped inside and cause rust and pitting on the balls.
Alan

1983 ex-army FFR 109 Stage 1
2005 Disco 2 HSE TD5
FBW
Posts: 51
Joined: Sun Dec 20, 2020 10:41 am
Location: southwest of Germany

Re: some exotic Stage 1 in Germany

Post by FBW »

disco2hse wrote: Sat Apr 17, 2021 8:14 pm We would not normally use gaiters in this part of the world. Mud, grit, and water can get trapped inside and cause rust and pitting on the balls.
I have had quite good experiences with the gaiters. I also don't assemble them as specified. I place the seam at the bottom and also cut a hole at the lowest point so that any water that has penetrated can run off.


greeting
Frank
FBW
Posts: 51
Joined: Sun Dec 20, 2020 10:41 am
Location: southwest of Germany

Re: some exotic Stage 1 in Germany

Post by FBW »

Air filter box and ignition cable mounted

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Then the Stahlflex cables were in the mail ... they were also installed immediately!

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... and then I started assembling the body! It looks completely different Image


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>> As you can see, this was also treated with Mike Sanders anti-corrosion grease.


Steering gear and the complete transmission mechanism including damper mounted in front of. However, this can only be finally fixed after the bulkhead has been aligned.

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... made a lot of little things, installed the tank and exhaust


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You can see that the tank is mounted from below (I forgot to take the picture from above:?).
Everything is built up in the area of the central axis. Letting the exhaust turn left was the right decision. Getting through would have been an even bigger fumble!

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... then digged up the next construction site from the depths of the fund


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The covering is over 50 years old. But it is still amazingly flexible.

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Unfortunately, the ravages of time had severely gnawed at some corners.
Ventilation is provided ...

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So the base is ok.
The roof frame is straight and complete.
The same goes for the mechanics of the roof bunk beds.
The ventilation flap is DIY. You can buy them again.
New window seals and coverings for the beds and the rest a little prettier.


greeting
Frank
FBW
Posts: 51
Joined: Sun Dec 20, 2020 10:41 am
Location: southwest of Germany

Re: some exotic Stage 1 in Germany

Post by FBW »

Cooler mounted.

The solder seams often tear on the small tubes. Prophylactically, there was a reinforcement on Sandy with such two-component putty

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I always mount the hose clamps for these things on a suitable mandrel first. The transverse forces to rotate the first time are already considerable. This can cause damage to the tubes. You can bang them on the thorn without hesitation, so that they cling nicely to the rather small Ø. Then turn it back on, put it on the hose and tighten.

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It wasn't that far anymore
... I couldn't hold back :D

Oil in the engine, oil filter filled to the brim with oil ...

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Oil pressure built up with the drill and the hydros filled.

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Distributor installed, cooling water in, on-the-fly construction of the necessary electrics

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... and after one turn of the crankshaft he speaks to me! Image
>> Big Sandy is alive! <<

https://www.dropbox.com/s/b4bm23l904a88 ... 4.MP4?dl=0


I think the exhaust system topic seems appropriate. The device sounds wonderfully dull and sonorous. If the engine is set correctly, it should be even better. It doesn't seem too loud under load either.


greeting
Frank
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