Mallory dizzy for 3.5 V8 engine

Technical questions and answers
billingtond
Posts: 37
Joined: Mon Jan 19, 2009 4:36 am
Location: New Zealand

Mallory dizzy for 3.5 V8 engine

Post by billingtond »

Hi, can anyone help, I am currently running an X NZ army stage one V8. Standard 3.5 V8 engine Yrs 1985. The dizzy in it a present is Mallory, it has no part number on it. I have been told that the dizzy was designed for the NZ army hence the reason for no part number. it has optical sensors for the firing the spark plugs

Can anyone advise what Mallory dizzy part number would fit in the engine.
map1275
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Joined: Mon Jul 21, 2008 2:48 am
Location: Brisbane, Australia

Post by map1275 »

Download the NZ army parts list from this site.

Your car probably has a custom made NZ Army affair based on a Mallory.

You can however buy a choice of Mallory distributors from Mallory or their NZ agent (not played with ones) for the V8, either points or electronic. Grab any Land-Rover magazine at your local Newsagent and have a flip through.
billingtond
Posts: 37
Joined: Mon Jan 19, 2009 4:36 am
Location: New Zealand

Post by billingtond »

Thanks for the info,
Kiwistage1V8
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Location: New Zealand

Post by Kiwistage1V8 »

part number is:

army589
Stop Global Whining.
billingtond
Posts: 37
Joined: Mon Jan 19, 2009 4:36 am
Location: New Zealand

Post by billingtond »

Thanks for that, what does that equal, interms of Mallory dizzy numbers.
Cheers, Dave
disco2hse
Posts: 1637
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Location: Auckland NZ

Post by disco2hse »

You will not find that part number in the Mallory catalogue. It was a special run for the NZ Army. Actually they used two Mallory dizzies, that one - 589- and a fully waterproofed marine version. The visual difference btween the two are that the the standard one has a clip on cap and the marine one has a screw on cap (2 screws where the clips normally are).

If you need a replacement part there was a bloke on Trademe who has a whole bunch for sale, or get one second hand from a dismantled vehicle, or do what most seem to do and replace with something else like Chev HEI, etc.

The NZLROC mailing list on yahoo groups has had a bit of discussion about various approaches lately.
Alan

1983 ex-army FFR 109 Stage 1
2005 Disco 2 HSE TD5
Kiwistage1V8
Posts: 130
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Location: New Zealand

Post by Kiwistage1V8 »

auto one got a new optical thingame whatsit for mine, and all they quoted was 589 army.

:!:
Stop Global Whining.
disco2hse
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Location: Auckland NZ

Post by disco2hse »

Yes but that is not the distributor. The parts are mostly replaceable: cap, point system, etc.
Alan

1983 ex-army FFR 109 Stage 1
2005 Disco 2 HSE TD5
Kiwistage1V8
Posts: 130
Joined: Tue Oct 25, 2005 4:07 am
Location: New Zealand

Post by Kiwistage1V8 »

Correct, but what I was inferring was, that by quoting the part number- 589 Army, was that Auto one is able to source parts.

It's quite likely, the optical thingee, and other bits, are a common part throughout the mallory optical ignition series dizzies.
Stop Global Whining.
billingtond
Posts: 37
Joined: Mon Jan 19, 2009 4:36 am
Location: New Zealand

Post by billingtond »

Thanks for the info, NZLROC, is there a web page for this.

at some stage some one has converted the system to 12 V, the wiring and method used was sloppy. I have replaced the system. I am geting a good spark at the HT lead into the dizzy cap, however, the plgs are not sparking not sure why an ideas.
disco2hse
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Joined: Sun Apr 27, 2008 3:51 am
Location: Auckland NZ

Post by disco2hse »

billingtond wrote:Thanks for the info, NZLROC, is there a web page for this.
Try this: http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/NZLANDROVEROwners/
billingtond wrote:at some stage some one has converted the system to 12 V, the wiring and method used was sloppy. I have replaced the system. I am geting a good spark at the HT lead into the dizzy cap, however, the plgs are not sparking not sure why an ideas.
That is one of the problems we face with bodgers. Glad to hear you've done a proper job though. The wiring in the series is typically pretty simple once you get past all the weird army stuff.

- Check the condenser
- replace the points if you are using them
- check the optical controller if electronic and not points
- check that cap is not cracked
- check that rotor is not worn
- check to see if graphite stub in the cap needs replacing
- plug leads probably need replacing, try starting it at night to see if you get a light show as the spark leaks all over the engine. Quite something to watch :D
- plugs probably need replacing, check their colour, condition and gap
- distributor body may be worn and the rotor is not rotating in a circular fashion

See how you go with those and take it from there.
Alan

1983 ex-army FFR 109 Stage 1
2005 Disco 2 HSE TD5
billingtond
Posts: 37
Joined: Mon Jan 19, 2009 4:36 am
Location: New Zealand

Post by billingtond »

Hi Alan

The system, todate. I have put in a 24v to 12v reducer, (tapped into the ignition feed). 12V running to the coil and a petronix ignitor. (ml-183) and petronix flame thrower coil..

The ignitor fits in to the dizzy cap. On cranking there is a good spark at the HT lead. I have taken the dizzy out, the endfloat at the gear end is OK. However, there is about 1.5 mm movement in the top end of the rotor shaft. (rotor arm is new). The side way movement of the rotor shaft, dizzy cap end is nil. Graphite stub is touching the rotor arm and appears to be OK, Plugs look OK. I will check the leads in darkness.

I can no see any crack in the cap.

is there any place in NZ that I could get a replacment dizzy, or parts to repair the current one.

If I am getting a good spark at the HT, this would indicate that the electronc ign is OK, otherwise there would be no spark. I can not, as yet get to the bottem of why there is no spark at the plus end. Cheers Dave
disco2hse
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Location: Auckland NZ

Post by disco2hse »

It is sometimes difficult to see cracks in the cap, but if it were that small you'd still get a spark, albeit intermittent.

When you say a 1.5 mm movement I assume you mean it swivels by that much, which it shouldn't so again, you should still get a spark but timing would be affected.

If it were the leads it would unlikely that all the leads would be affected. But it may be possible. One way to check if the leads are leaking is to hold onto one and turn it over, but it *will* make your hair stand on end :shock: (just joking about that one).

So I wonder if the amount of charge getting to the distributor is insufficient for a spark to be generated. Have you removed one of the plugs and turned the engine over to see if there is a visible spark?

You can get pretty much all components from Segedins in Auckland. They are the Mallory agents. The distributor (if the army model) is no longer available but there some floating around and you should be able to get a second hand one that is serviceable.
Alan

1983 ex-army FFR 109 Stage 1
2005 Disco 2 HSE TD5
billingtond
Posts: 37
Joined: Mon Jan 19, 2009 4:36 am
Location: New Zealand

Post by billingtond »

Hi Alan

The movement is up and down is on the shaft. not sure if this is too much,

I tried the rotor arms not fully depressed on the shaft and the engine tried to fire. would it be poosable that the 1.5mm is sufficent to cause the rotor arm to sit too low, thus missing the contact in the dizzy.. Thanks for the Mallory contact I will ring them, they may have a suitable dizzy as a replacment to the army one. Cheers Dave
disco2hse
Posts: 1637
Joined: Sun Apr 27, 2008 3:51 am
Location: Auckland NZ

Post by disco2hse »

Actually, while I have never seen it I guess it is possible. It may also be that you have the wrong cap (?). The 1.5mm movement is normal. But if you are able to jack the rotor up a bit, safely, and try, and it fires then that may be the issue.

I meant to say too that when checking the plugs, if there is genuinely no spark they should be soaked in petrol and not be dry after you have turned it over. If they are dry you may have (also have) fuel supply issues.
Alan

1983 ex-army FFR 109 Stage 1
2005 Disco 2 HSE TD5
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