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Posted: Sat May 04, 2019 1:39 pm
Time for a quick update. I've been experiencing bulkhead fatigue; the last 20% always seem to take 80% of the effort. I'm looking forward to putting the welder away for a while and getting back on the spanners. I moved the spare LT95 nearer my work area in readiness as I think I'll probably be pulling the original out and having a go at overhauling it, we shall see.
Back to the bulkhead then. Top corner first. The YRM panels are only £19 for the pair...
... so seemed pointless trying to make my own even though I only need a small section...
I cut the top corner piece and fettled to fit...
...then it was weldup and grind
Next, time to fit that strengthening piece I'd made when I started. Drilled it for plug welding and checked for fit...
...then did the welding
...and then the cleanup
Next job, the rusty vent surround. First off, the top rail was a bit out of shape and dented in places. There's damage including old grinder and hammer marks. God only knows what whoever did that thought they were doing. I spent a bit of time with hammer and dolly and put it right.
Started with this section
I decided to take out the rotted sections and replace with new steel. I did consider trying to source a replacement top rail but that would probably risk more than I gain, the rot is localised and so should be easy enough to deal with in sections, so out with section one
I then made up a replacement section...
...and welded n place
So on it goes, nearly there now.
Posted: Sat May 11, 2019 6:47 pm
Almost done with bulkhead rust repairs now. I have to admit, finding the motivation to finish it is not easy; the novelty of cutting out rot, making a patch piece, and welding it in and grinding has long since passed. But, the end is now in sight.
Cut out perforated section from top front panel...
...and tacked in replacement piece...
...then welded up and cleaned
Next, sort the LH side of the vent mesh housing
Cut out the rotten section...
...then fabricate the teplacement piece...
...weldup and clean
Next, the bubbling and rot on RH top corner
Same old story when you reveal what's hiding underneath
Clean it up and treat...
...then patch in new steel and clean up
Now for the RH top corner.
I was so tempted to just fill in the holes with weld, but that would be silly having done so much already. Just need to keep going and get finished without cutting corners.
Cut out the rot...
...make a piece for the corner...
...and weld it in
Time for beer! I'll finish the last bit next week and then sort out galvanizing.
Posted: Sat May 11, 2019 6:53 pm
On the upside, it will never have to be done again.
So glad our roads are not salted, but road builder use lime
Posted: Sat May 11, 2019 7:48 pm
disco2hse wrote: ↑
Sat May 11, 2019 6:53 pm
On the upside, it will never have to be done again.
I certainly hope not
Posted: Wed May 15, 2019 6:28 pm
I made an effort and finished off the welding repairs, so finally, can arrange galvanising and move on to the next phase.
Marked section to remove...
...cut out and cut patch piece to fit...
So, after refitting gutter and giving it a good clean, I finally have a complete bulkhead ready for galvanising
The really soul destroying part of this so far is trying to make good the damage done by whoever butchered the bulkhead in the past. There was a lot more hiding under the paint than was expected. It all looked good to begin with, but then found hammer dents, grinding cuts, deep sanding swirls, hidden rot, heat distortion, etc. Anyway, got there. I have had to leave the dents and dings I can't get behind and will have to fill them when it's painted, I just hope I'm able to make a decent job of it when it comes to it.
Posted: Wed May 15, 2019 7:31 pm
It's a work of art and I am sure the builders would be pleased with it.
Posted: Thu May 23, 2019 8:32 am
Bit the bullet today and sent bulkhead off for galvanising. What's the emoji for apprehension?
Posted: Fri May 24, 2019 9:23 pm
Time to move on with the project, so today it was gearbox day. I decided to lift it off while it's nice and accessible. I did attempt to remove the crossmember too but discovered the chassis was galvanised with it in situ! It can stay in place for now as it doesn't need to come off to lift the gearbox.
I bolted on my leveller and hooked up to the crane with engine weight supported on trolley jack.
Everything's disconnected and all bolts are out and the bell housing is separated from the engine, but SWMBO called me away so will have to continue tomorrow.
Posted: Sat May 25, 2019 7:02 am
You are finding some odd issues in there.
Posted: Sat May 25, 2019 4:26 pm
Continuing, managed to separate and lift the box.
Bloody heavy on your own and on uneven ground, managed it though.
So now sat on dolly.
There's a lot of oil and crud inside the bell housing. The release bearing is fubar too.
Need to decide what to do now; swap in the spare box or attempt an overhaul of the original. Mind you, I have no clue if the spare is good or not either.
Posted: Sat May 25, 2019 7:38 pm
Things I would do now.
1. Open and inspect the spare for a (hopefully) quick replacement. Replace and build as required.
2. Break off the cross member and paint over the bare metal with cold galv, etc.
3. Install the spare box and then rebuild the old one as a new known-to-be-good spare.
1a. Spare box is in worse condition than the original: rebuild the original and reinstall at 3.
1b. Rebuild spare if feasible, otherwise use as donor only and eventually sell the aluminium.
4. Have a beer.
Big lump though, aren't they. Going out the top is hairy, but unless you have a hoist to lift everything up and away from the box, taking out the bottom is scarier.
Keen to see what is inside now
Posted: Mon May 27, 2019 11:57 pm
I decided to strip down the original box and inspect it. If nothing else, I'm curious. First problem was draining oil and getting it into my workshop. Oil was done by lifting it up a bit with crane to give me the height to get my oil tray whatnot under. That was easy enough. The oil from the transfer box was like new; beautifully clean. The oil from the main gearbox was pretty good too although you could see iron in it. The plug magnet had picked up iron but there were not large bits of metal.
I then struggled with it trying to get the box up over a step and into my workshop, had to get help as my 1 man power wasn't enough today. Once in and back on the dolly it was no bother to wheel about. Next problem was getting the transmission brake drum off, the locknut had been done up far too tight. It took several minutes of continuous hammering from my rattle gun before it cracked off. Then the drum itself didnt want to come off. The shoes were not adjusting loose and it was full of old dried rusty muddy residue. A lot of persuasion eventually did the job.
It was then fairly plain sailing to remove the shoes, etc. I'd had enough at this point so popped the coupling back on the shaft for safe keeping. Will resume tomorrow.
Posted: Tue May 28, 2019 6:55 am
The magnet is pretty normal if the oil has not been changed for a long time.
Posted: Tue May 28, 2019 9:12 am
What I forgot to mention was that a lot less oil came out than I was expecting! Could the PO's complaint of noisy box all be due to lack of oil? So far We have fubar clutch release bearing and low oil level. There also felt like a pretty worn front diff when I took the prop off, so that could have been screaming for its life too.
Posted: Wed May 29, 2019 3:47 pm
The main problem on LT95 boxes are the lay shaft bearings. That makes the box noisy. After the rebuild I would recommend STOU oil instead of engine oil. STOU is a 10W40 engine oil with transmission oil additives in. The gear change is much better than before.
There is an overhaul kit available with all bearings, seals, gaskets and synchronizer rings. But be carefull: there are trust washers installed on the intermediate shaft consisting of bronze with a silver coating (may be zinc?). Sometimes these washers are made from steel with the correct coating...
It works... for just 200 miles!!! Don't ask why I know
the front lay shaft bearing was in bad condition. The car had 50000miles on the clock when I bought it 5 years ago. After the overhaul I nearly doubled the mileage without any problems or noise.