Restoration

Technical questions and answers
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Mik
Posts: 227
Joined: Wed Sep 20, 2006 10:25 am
Location: Denmark

Re: Restoration

Post by Mik »

Looks great - I have just receied a valve from Bryan too- so very much apprecited to see how you're takling it :)
Michael
1965 109 FC SIIA
1982 109 V8 SIII CSW Stage One
1982 109 V8 SIII HCPU Stage One
1990 RRC Vogue SE
Cliff4WD
Posts: 246
Joined: Fri Aug 10, 2018 2:39 pm
Location: Rye, East Sussex, UK

Re: Restoration

Post by Cliff4WD »

Keep tripping over the radiator I'd put inside the workshop for safe keeping, so thought I'd do the refurb and get it refitted to the vehicle. It's in good condition but paint flaking and a bit of rust on brackets, etc.

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Paint stripper gets the paint off quite nicely although not so effective on powder coated parts. Brass tank looking cleaner.

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There were quite a few areas where the vanes had been crushed or bent.

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After some frustratingly tedious straightening, the vanes were looking better and the whole thing clean and ready for paint...

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...well it would be but I have the other side to do 😕

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More mind numbing time passed, finally ready for paint.

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I just used a rattle can for this as I still had a can of stove enamal spare (wood burner refurb). So finally, the finished result

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Next, sort the support struts, etc.
Cliff

1981 109 V8 Stage 1
2000 Discovery 2 Td5

109 V8: viewtopic.php?f=6&t=2161
My Disco Thread: http://www.thed2boysclub.co.uk/viewtopi ... =3&t=58130

LAND ROVER. TURNING OWNERS INTO PAUPERS FOR 70 YEARS
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Mik
Posts: 227
Joined: Wed Sep 20, 2006 10:25 am
Location: Denmark

Re: Restoration

Post by Mik »

Christ , you're effective :)
Michael
1965 109 FC SIIA
1982 109 V8 SIII CSW Stage One
1982 109 V8 SIII HCPU Stage One
1990 RRC Vogue SE
disco2hse
Posts: 1599
Joined: Sun Apr 27, 2008 3:51 am
Location: Auckland NZ

Re: Restoration

Post by disco2hse »

TBH, I'd have got it rodded and had the pipes pressure checked before doing that.
Alan

1983 ex-army FFR 109 Stage 1
2005 Disco 2 HSE TD5
Cliff4WD
Posts: 246
Joined: Fri Aug 10, 2018 2:39 pm
Location: Rye, East Sussex, UK

Re: Restoration

Post by Cliff4WD »

disco2hse wrote: Tue Jun 01, 2021 7:39 pm TBH, I'd have got it rodded and had the pipes pressure checked before doing that.
It's fine. Remember it was running ok with no leaks or noticable problems before I started the strip down and restore. It has no leaks, is clean inside and in great nick. It had already been reconditioned as part of the previous rebuild. A while ago I know, but apart from the paint and accumulated crap on the surface and some corrosion on the mounting brackets it's really in very good order. I was going to send it off for rebuilding assuming it would be old and rotten until I realised it was just superficial crud making it look tatty. I can still have it rebuilt if I find out it's not what I think.
Cliff

1981 109 V8 Stage 1
2000 Discovery 2 Td5

109 V8: viewtopic.php?f=6&t=2161
My Disco Thread: http://www.thed2boysclub.co.uk/viewtopi ... =3&t=58130

LAND ROVER. TURNING OWNERS INTO PAUPERS FOR 70 YEARS
Cliff4WD
Posts: 246
Joined: Fri Aug 10, 2018 2:39 pm
Location: Rye, East Sussex, UK

Re: Restoration

Post by Cliff4WD »

Pushed on and continued with rad etc.

I dug out the grill top panel and tie bars. I had taken these off as they were assembled and left them in one piece

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It has suffered the usual corrosion...

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... so dismantle and cleaning time.

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I've documented cleaning and painting quite enough already, so I shan't bore you with it.

I stripped and cleaned the bonnet latch assy and gave it a coat of high zinc primer.

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Thought I'd best refit the viscous fan now rather than struggle later. (just realised typing this that I've forgotten about the cowl).

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I refitted the grill panel/rad support in place and checked on positioning with front panel.

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Something odd is going here. I was trying to understand why there is a step in height between panel and radiator. The support struts were bolted back in the holes that they came from and there were two extensions plates on the top panel brackets, but the hand crank handle hole in the panel wasn't aligned with the same hole in chassis crossmember. Now this may come back and mess with me later but I decided to take the extensions off and align it all as per the parts diagram. I moved the support strut fixing bolts up to holes above those that had been used before (why are they there if not for the struts?).

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Well it all fits much better now. Everything lines up as it should. I have no clue why it had been fitted the way it was; I guess I'll find out down the line.

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So having gotten the rad back in, fitted the top and bottom hoses


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... and, feeling very bored with the drudgery, I decided to bling it up and fitted my nice new plug leads

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These are the super duper Magnecor leads that are made specifically to fit the Rover V8.

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Should soon be time to fit the Edelbrock 500 and start her up!
Cliff

1981 109 V8 Stage 1
2000 Discovery 2 Td5

109 V8: viewtopic.php?f=6&t=2161
My Disco Thread: http://www.thed2boysclub.co.uk/viewtopi ... =3&t=58130

LAND ROVER. TURNING OWNERS INTO PAUPERS FOR 70 YEARS
Fish
Posts: 50
Joined: Fri Dec 28, 2018 7:35 pm

Re: Restoration

Post by Fish »

Looking good.. no movement on mine since I broke my hand but should be back to it soon..
Cliff4WD
Posts: 246
Joined: Fri Aug 10, 2018 2:39 pm
Location: Rye, East Sussex, UK

Re: Restoration

Post by Cliff4WD »

Hope your hand heals soon and you can share your resto experience.
Cliff

1981 109 V8 Stage 1
2000 Discovery 2 Td5

109 V8: viewtopic.php?f=6&t=2161
My Disco Thread: http://www.thed2boysclub.co.uk/viewtopi ... =3&t=58130

LAND ROVER. TURNING OWNERS INTO PAUPERS FOR 70 YEARS
Cliff4WD
Posts: 246
Joined: Fri Aug 10, 2018 2:39 pm
Location: Rye, East Sussex, UK

Re: Restoration

Post by Cliff4WD »

Having fitted the radiator and viscous fan but forgetting the cowl, I had to remove the fan and fit the forgotten cowl. It needed a good clean, it was covered in dust and cobwebs. The expansion tank holder was covered in rust as were most of the nuts bolts and screws. After a lot of cleaning and derusting, I took the fan off and fixed the cowl in place.

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It's annoying that the previous owner decided to hack the top of the cowl off and fix it back in place with cable ties. The height of laziness IMHO as it's easy enough to release the 5 screws holding the Cowling in place. I shall have to find a good replacement sometime.

Next it was back to plumbing in the heater control valve and heater matrix. I had found it particularly irritating that the valve ports and the matrix and pipes are all 16mm external diameter whilst the water pump and manifold ports are all 19mm. It's also annoying that the heater was an optional extra and so isn't included in the parts catalogue. It is In the optional parts catalogue (which I don't have) but without diagrams, so it's a part number searching game if you want these parts.

It would have been fairly simple if I could just buy the various connecting hoses to fit. The control valve is of course obsolete so chances of getting the correct size hoses seemed slim. I was iinformed that they were in fact all available, so I ordered up what I thought I needed. Of course, like an idiot I ordered from the standard parts catalogue and got myself 2" and 4" sections of 19mm ID hose for the manifold outlet to valve and return. I don't know why I thought they would work and sure enough, just straight 19mm ID hose. What I needed was reducing diameter hose. It turns out that that is exactly what the optional catalogue lists.
Part nos. for RHD are:

NRC2985 x2 (Heater box)

NRC3316 x2 (Hose Elbow)

NRC3317 x1 (Heater Valve hose)

NRC2984 x1 (Heater Valve hose)

ERC3485 x1 (Water Outlet to Heater Valve)

ERC3486 x1 (Heater Valve to Return Pipe

However, actually finding suppliers with these in stock and with some being now obsolete, and one short piece of rubber pipe priced at £50, I decided to do my own thing. I bought a 1m length of 16mm heater hose and cut to length! I heated one end with hot air gun until it softened enough to push onto the 19mm manifold outlet. I did same for water pump return port and everything else was correct size.

I did use new genuine LR S bend for pump to manifold bypass connection

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The 16mm hose after moulding to go over 19mm pump outlet runs under the edelbrock manifold.

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Similar situation at the control valve (excuse the old jubilee clips)

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It's then just a case of joining up the valve with the original alloy pipes

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and to the heater matrix

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So, that's that out the way for now. I then filled the rad and block with water and checked for leaks. I need to pressurise it to get a proper check for water tightness but so far all leak free.
Cliff

1981 109 V8 Stage 1
2000 Discovery 2 Td5

109 V8: viewtopic.php?f=6&t=2161
My Disco Thread: http://www.thed2boysclub.co.uk/viewtopi ... =3&t=58130

LAND ROVER. TURNING OWNERS INTO PAUPERS FOR 70 YEARS
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Geoff
Posts: 593
Joined: Sat Oct 29, 2011 2:21 am
Location: Leicester UK

Re: Restoration

Post by Geoff »

I provided these part numbers on here last year:

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=2228

Seems like a lot of trouble and expense to go to for the privilege of blowing non-heated air into the vehicle when you can just open the bulkhead flaps instead.
2 1981 Stage One 109 V8 SWs
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Cliff4WD
Posts: 246
Joined: Fri Aug 10, 2018 2:39 pm
Location: Rye, East Sussex, UK

Re: Restoration

Post by Cliff4WD »

Yeah, probably a spectacular waste of money. Shame I didn't search the forum on the subject and find your post before. Of course, I didn't realise then that there were part numbers I didn't have, so no reason to search then. Hindsight is a wonderful thing. Anyway, silly money for a few short lengths of rubber pipe so I was always going to be looking for a more reasonable solution.
Cliff

1981 109 V8 Stage 1
2000 Discovery 2 Td5

109 V8: viewtopic.php?f=6&t=2161
My Disco Thread: http://www.thed2boysclub.co.uk/viewtopi ... =3&t=58130

LAND ROVER. TURNING OWNERS INTO PAUPERS FOR 70 YEARS
Cliff4WD
Posts: 246
Joined: Fri Aug 10, 2018 2:39 pm
Location: Rye, East Sussex, UK

Re: Restoration

Post by Cliff4WD »

Time to fit the carburettor

I've had the new edelbrock 500 sitting in its box waiting to be fitted since last year. Time has at last come to bolt it onto the manifold and connect it up.

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Cleaned the tape off of the manifold that was covering the large inlet...

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...put the gasket in place...

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...and bolted the carburettor in place.

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Next job was to fit a nice new throttle cable. Pretty straight forward at the carb end. Bracket fits over a carb mounting stud and the cable is held in place in standard manner with a couple of nuts. I had to drill an extra hole for the return spring so that it cleared the mechanism when in place.

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Next, attach the other end of the cable to the accelerator pedal. RPI who supplied the carburettor kit, include a U bracket for this purpose. Snip off the bobble from the end of the cable and insert in the bracket and clamp tight with integral grub screw. This bracket is machined with the Defender throttle pedal in mind, so I found that a slight bit of fettling was required. The hole in the bracket for the pivot pin didn't quite align so I had to file away a little inside the U to accomodate the lever on the end of the throttle pedal shaft.

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After a lot of too and throw adjusting the length of the cable to give the full range of throttle response, I finally found the length and tightened everything up.

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I next turned my attention to the fuel supply. The edelbrock is fitted with a banjo with a 10mm push on fitting. I'd ordered a few meters of 10mm ID fuel line and a pair of 1/2" UNF to 10mm fittings for the fuel filter. The filter had the original 8mm pipes, rather than discard the LR filter housing and fit a plastic in-line filter instead, I wanted to keep the original but change to the 10mm line. I was pleased to find the 1/2" fittings with 10mm push ons as this meant I could go the way I wanted to.

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Short length of rubber fuel line from filter to carburettor

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Last job for the moment was to check and fit the air filter in place. Nothing complicated about this, just cut the threaded bar used to bolt the filter in place to length and drill hole and fit union for the breather pipe (I need to fit a T piece and connect breather from RH rocker cover as well).

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Cliff

1981 109 V8 Stage 1
2000 Discovery 2 Td5

109 V8: viewtopic.php?f=6&t=2161
My Disco Thread: http://www.thed2boysclub.co.uk/viewtopi ... =3&t=58130

LAND ROVER. TURNING OWNERS INTO PAUPERS FOR 70 YEARS
Cliff4WD
Posts: 246
Joined: Fri Aug 10, 2018 2:39 pm
Location: Rye, East Sussex, UK

Re: Restoration

Post by Cliff4WD »

I seem to have contracted a cold, eyes puffy and watering, sore throat, etc. so not much going on. Last bit of work I did was fitting the new fuel pump.

I unbolted the pump from its location on inside of chassis rail behind driver and drained off the little petrol that was still in the line from tank...

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...and took out the fuel feed line and niw redundant return line

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The pump I took out has only been in since I needed to fit a replacement in order that I could drive the vehicle into my garden. I'll be keeping it in the spare parts box.

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As mentioned, I'm fitting a Facet Red Top with its higher flow rate to feed the CFM500. I have the Glenco box kit...

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...which contains everything needed to mount the pump.

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The red top uses 1/4 NPT unions. The kit came with the 2 elbow unions. First add a little thread sealant...

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...then screw into the body of the pump
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I didn't like the position that the unions ended up when tightened, so I added a couple of copper washers and positioned them to better suit the pump location setup.

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It was then just a case of mounting it in place on the chassis on the rubber mounts provided, remembering to connect the earth wire.

I did connect up the new rubber fuel lines but didn't take photos, so I'll add them when I get back on it.
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Cliff

1981 109 V8 Stage 1
2000 Discovery 2 Td5

109 V8: viewtopic.php?f=6&t=2161
My Disco Thread: http://www.thed2boysclub.co.uk/viewtopi ... =3&t=58130

LAND ROVER. TURNING OWNERS INTO PAUPERS FOR 70 YEARS
Cliff4WD
Posts: 246
Joined: Fri Aug 10, 2018 2:39 pm
Location: Rye, East Sussex, UK

Re: Restoration

Post by Cliff4WD »

It's been a good month since I last did any significant work on my vehicle. I resumed yesterday by fitting a replacement indicator stalk and screw in washer push microswitch. I'd threaded the loom back through the bulkhead and put the instrument pod/panel in place. Problem now is trying to unravel the wiring and reconnect everything. I'd left the instruments connected and thought I'd labeled everything that I'd disconnected but it turns out I didn't do quite the fastidious job I thought I had. Of course, the previously restoration and modifications have altered some of the wiring, but to further complicate matters, the wiring schematics that I have from the 109V8 supplement don't fully tally with what I have.
I know it's been asked a 1000 times before, but does anyone have a reliable wiring diagram for UK spec 1981 model year 109V8 Stage 1?

I had originally thought I'd be replacing the entire harness, but since Autosparks are way behind with 16 week lead times due to covid impact I decided to keep what I have. It's in good condition in the main so doesn't need to be replaced and I want to push on.
I guess I should consider remaking my own loom and incorporating some upgrades like decent fuses and relays, but right now I just would like to reconnect what was on it before I took it apart. Whatever I end up doing, I could still use a reliable and matching wiring schematic, so if anyone can help I would be most appreciative.

A few photos:

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Cliff

1981 109 V8 Stage 1
2000 Discovery 2 Td5

109 V8: viewtopic.php?f=6&t=2161
My Disco Thread: http://www.thed2boysclub.co.uk/viewtopi ... =3&t=58130

LAND ROVER. TURNING OWNERS INTO PAUPERS FOR 70 YEARS
disco2hse
Posts: 1599
Joined: Sun Apr 27, 2008 3:51 am
Location: Auckland NZ

Re: Restoration

Post by disco2hse »

but does anyone have a reliable wiring diagram for UK spec 1981 model year 109V8 Stage 1?
:lol: Sorry. Nope.

Imagine how hard it was with the military version in NZDF where they "adapted" things to suit. Even birds would turn their beak up at the mess in my binnacle :wink:

From the photos, it doesn't look too bad unless you have the dreaded colour morphing like I have throughout mine. In my case, I just routed new wires and pulled out the offensive mismatches as they occur. Hard part is finding the right colour coded wire.
Alan

1983 ex-army FFR 109 Stage 1
2005 Disco 2 HSE TD5
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