100 Amp Generator putting out 40 Volts..eating everything

[robertstr]

Hi Guys,
So.... I finally figured out that my 100 amp stock nz army generator is putting out 40 volts...

plate.jpg (57.19 KiB) Viewed 12419 times

generator.jpg (57.83 KiB) Viewed 12419 times

I thought it was regulated via switch/ais multilarm thing on dashboard, but I think thats just what it says on the tin. An alarm.

So... I am not so hot with electrical, but tested few things to get to here,

Tested batteries at rest, each by itself- 12.8 and 12.7 after was ran for bit.
Tested them in series with out engine on.. 26 volts
Turn engine on... BAM 40 volts... water starts boiling outta batteries in about a min ..this is due to overfilling a bit to degree I suspect.

So, questions I have are...
Who makes this generator?
Where is the regulator located?
And some thoughts on maybe what to check first before I run it to an alternator shop and pray they can fix here in the States?

I am sure, I could have asked better questions, so feel free to just pile on...
If it matters , the ignition was swapped to flame thrower 12v two years ago...

Cheers ....everybody

[disco2hse]

The alternator is a Land Rover item. They are made for the military and if you want to buy one new, they are around 2000.

The regulator is located in the end unit where the big plug goes in.

Regulators tend to be pretty standard pieces of equipment, so it should be readily available.

So far as taking it in to check, just give them the symptoms and let them come up with a solution.

So, you have the Pertonix ignitor too?

[robertstr]

Hi Allen, yeah I have the p ignitor , I just had to replace it after three years, I am not sure that
it was not killed by the generator running amuck, but has worked well outside of that.

General question, does that split charge diode do anything useful if you are not charging two systems with it?
Or just add a variable you dont need?

I run two battery banks, but both are ran to the starter directly and charge at the same time. Racing mechanic Guy in FL set it up
and seems to have run great for 4 years. I know people do much more extensive set ups for this but has done
well.

I guess I am pulling the generator out today... oh joy,.. No Idea why that sucker at 100 amps would run 2k... Never brought me
coffee in bed

[disco2hse]

Hi Allen, yeah I have the p ignitor , I just had to replace it after three years, I am not sure that
it was not killed by the generator running amuck, but has worked well outside of that.

Most likely yes. They are pretty resilient (more than Mallory) but anything can fail. I had one fail for similar reasons (I think).

General question, does that split charge diode do anything useful if you are not charging two systems with it?
Or just add a variable you dont need?

Not really, and as a means for charging multiple battery banks, they are not very efficient. I have pretty much taken mine out of the circuit (they are still there but have no feed).

I run two battery banks, but both are ran to the starter directly and charge at the same time. Racing mechanic Guy in FL set it up
and seems to have run great for 4 years. I know people do much more extensive set ups for this but has done
well.

You mean you have four 12V batteries? If that is so, then you would definitely need a charge splitter of some kind.

The starter is 24V, and that makes it a valuable item.

I guess I am pulling the generator out today... oh joy,.. No Idea why that sucker at 100 amps would run 2k... Never brought me
coffee in bed

When the stator on mine collapsed, I just replaced the whole thing with a 24V Bosch alternator. That's also why I disconnected the split charge diodes. I am slowly pulling out the 60A cables as they get in the way of other things.

[robertstr]

Well she is in the shop, lets see what they have to say... Question Alan when you put in the bosch 24v alternator, did you get it modded to accept the same plugin?
or went with new connectors all across the board. My gut says I have to go this way ....

[map1275]

The unit is neither an alternator nor a dynamo but both. Looks to be the common unit shared with Unimog and not a Land-Rover part as with the previous Lucas/CAV part on earlier Series III and II, Ferret etc.
Internally controlled and output can be set at the back of the unit by removing the mesh cover. In FFR role it is set to 100amps in GS role set to 35.

[robertstr]

Some Useful info.

K so I have the NZ army manual it lists the NSN numbers for that 100 amp alt/gen
National Stock Number:
2920-66-095-0372

Federal Supply Class:
2920
National Item Identification Number:
660950372
Description:
REGULATOR,ENGINE GE

Which a bit more digging gets you this
Manufacturer Information:
DE290010019 Z5454 DEPT OF DEFENCE (DMO) LAND SYSTEMSDIVISION
930213-048 Z0259 MILSPEC MANUFACTURING PTY LTD

Which gets you this company in AU that is still in biz, http://milspecmanufacturing.com/ so I am hoping to get the internal voltage reg if possible. I will post up if they are still viable option for parts.

EDIT... OK just talked to milspec and they still support that generator. Only thing they cant get is the filter., Voltage reg is going to run 249 US dollars plus shipping, not cheap, but good to know,
Talk to very nice guy named Kieran works in sales and knows what it is... SWEET

[disco2hse]

Glad to hear your progress. Of course, you could probably get a new alternator for that price, but if it's original you want...

Well she is in the shop, lets see what they have to say... Question Alan when you put in the bosch 24v alternator, did you get it modded to accept the same plugin?
or went with new connectors all across the board. My gut says I have to go this way ....

All new connectors and I made a bracket to house the smaller alternator body in the original bracket and adjuster.

[map1275]

There isn't an off the shelf conventional alternator anywhere that has a cannon plug. Any auto elec will butcher your loom to fit whatever unit they insist "fits". Instead of buying a new male plug or salvaging your old one and from there, making an adaptor to suit the alternator. Male and female cannon plugs are readily available and usually quite cheap as they often need replacement from having been loose.
The ADF have countless units in service, in stores and undergoing repair as Land-Rover and Unimog still have an indefinite lifespan. The unit is also a rotable item, so can't be binned when faulty, it must go back through the system. So someone will be fixing them one way or another for some time to come.

[robertstr]

Update,
So the shop found bad diode, replaced that but its still putting out 40 volts. sigh...
They just called me and asked what the lettered pins go to for the generator connector.
ABCDEF We know which are pos and neg, but they are hoping maybe one of the lines is
part of talking to voltage regulator to control the voltage. hope that made sense and somebody
knows what they represent, OR has a diagram showing some detail.
Cheers

[disco2hse]

I tried uploading the wiring diagram but the file size is too large (11.9Mb). PM me your email address.

[disco2hse]

This is a link to a wiring diagram of the alternator/generator



This page is always interesting: http://www.winwaed.com/landy/mil/military.php It's where the wiring diagram came from

[robertstr]

Thanks Alan....!! Now hopefully 1 equals A
Super appreciated

[robertstr]

OK, a bit more useful information on that 100 amp alternator connection
Supplied by the really helpful company that made it, Milspec in AU. Really nice company it seems

The following is the pin out for the alternator.

Pin A – Positive 28V

Pin B – N/C

Pin C – Negative 28V

Pin D – Battery Sense line

Pin E – N/C

Pin F – Alternator warning light (optional)



To ensure that the regulator operates correctly there must be a light gauge wire that connects the voltage sense terminal to the battery positive terminal, normally through the ignition switch.

This connection allows the regulator to supply the correct voltage to the battery independent of the voltage drop through the main +ve wire.

Any additional load on this light gauge wire will cause the regulator to regulate to an incorrect voltage.

With the ignition switched on you should be able to measure the voltage on this pin. (Pin D to Pin C) The voltage measured should be the same as the battery voltage.

To get more that 32V from the regulator would mean that the regulator is faulty.

The diode that had failed is used to supply power to the field windings through the regulator. It is most likely that this failure has caused the regulator to fail

So thats all I got on the alternator , we will test today with a load/ light wire and see if its viable, if not will need to order from AU, and I think my baby will be down for the rest of the season here. Minnesota is not topless LR friendly after a point.
Offhand does anybody have one of these that may have a voltage regulator they would sell me? Thinking maybe somebody did the 24 to 12 conversion... Worth a shot.
Cheers
Robert

[disco2hse]

That's some great research.

I have one under the house that's been there for the better part of 10 years, but I suspect the cost of transport may outweigh the unknown value of the parts (ie I don't know if they are any good).

Are the parts Milspec used interchangeable with stock items?