Carb/vacuum piping

[Chris_G]

Hi guys

It's been a while since I've posted here but found my way back to this forum.
Finally after almost 3 years of hard work, the stagey is back on the road but it's still not running very well.
Engine has been fully rebuilt with a new crower cam. Compression is perfect but it's still missing some power, especially at acceleration.
Max speed is now around 90 km/h and uphill is a real struggle, speed decreases very fast.
Still fitted with the original carbs but all checked and cleaned out and balanced/tuned by ear/smooth running on idle.

I'm still thinking of some problem with the carbs or the ignition (don't know exactly how much advance it needs with this changed cam) and i run out of advance because my distributor
hits the water pump!!
Where do i take the vacuum advance for the distributor, some previous owner messed with the vacuum piping and i should find some schematics of how to run this piping without the
cold start valve on the front of the engine.
So I want to run just the air filter and minimum of vacuum pipes needed for good running.

Anybody who can help me with some pics?

Cheers and thanks
Chris

BTW this is a pic of how the stagey looks now

[datsta]

Your Stage 1 looks good!

The vacuum pipe connects to the tapping on the left hand carb flange, just above the butterfly valve. Note that it does not have any vacuum at idle, unlike other vehicles.

You need a timing light to set your ignition. If the problem is the distributor will not rotate far enough, lift it out , rotate the drive gear one tooth and re-install.
With vacuum disconnected, timing should be TDC at idle and 14 or 15 degrees when you have 3000 or 4000 rpm.

Cheers.

[Chris_G]

Thanks for the response on my question.

Now I'm still thinking what to do with the other 2 vacuum connections that remain open.
I still have one open on the right hand carb (viewed from inside LHD car ) and one on the inlet manifold just under the water outlet pipe
which goes to the top of the radiator.
Can I just blank them off?

I've inserted 2 pics for a better view of my open connections.





Thanks

Chris

[datsta]

Hi Chris,

someone else will need to post some help here as my engine only has one carb with a vacuum connection and only one small pipe coming out of the centre of the manifold, going to the top of the radiator. I'm sure you can simply block the spare carb connection.

Cheers,

Doug

[Geoff]

As datsta says, the vacuum advance unit on your distributor should be connected to the tapping on the left hand carb flange in your picture (vital!) Neither of my Stage 1s have anything similar on the right hand carb, so I would say the one on that carb in your picture can/should be blanked off, if it's not already been.

The pipe from the inlet manifold just under the water outlet pipe that you refer to on one of my Stage 1s is connected to the lower of two little tappings on the right hand side of the air filter housing (the pipe from the upper of these is connected to the flap valve on top of the original air intake) On my other Stage 1, the original air filter housing has been replaced by two separate K & N filters and the connection on the inlet manifold has been blanked off. The pipe from the inlet manifold to the air filter housing (where it is actually connected to a temperature sensing device), if fitted, should have a non-return valve in it (part number 614866) - obviously there's no point in connecting this pipe and valve unless both the temp sensing device and the flap valve on top of the original air intake are working, if they're there at all on your vehicle.