New Stage 1 Owner Needs Help

[NZstage1]

Hi all my names josh and I'm a new stage 1 owner from New Zealand.
 
I'm currently in the throes of tidying up my new stage 1 V8 and ive come across a couple of issues.
 
Firstly, there's an annoying vibration when I accelerate to 50kph. It feels like the truck is driving on a road made of tiny speed bumps. It stops at 60kph but comes back at 70kph. The prop-shafts are properly greased and gearbox/diffs have good clean oil in. Also makes a funny knocking noise when slowing from approx. 10kph to 0kph. What's likely to be the culprit there?
 
Secondly, my fuel system appears to be a bit of a mish-mash and I would like to return it to standard. I found what looks to be the original facet fuel pump in the under-seat box. What's the best way to check if its junk or still useable? The pump on there now is called a FuelFlo. It looks a bit tinny, and it has a far smaller input/output than the facet. Also has a cheap plastic inline fuel filter on it. I would like to re use the facet if possible.
 
Another thing is the truck is sometimes quite hard to start. It often needs foot to the floor throttle to get it to turn over but once going, runs nicely and seems to pull well.. but ive never had a v8 so could be completely wrong! I filled the dash pots, changed all the spark plugs to NGK BPR6ES and changed leads a couple of days ago but hasn't made much of a difference to starting. I cant help but think that its a fuel issue? The truck will hesitate and stutter if I put my foot down hard whilst driving, then it will take off.
 
Also, Im not sure if my fuel tank is original. Its monstrous, sits rearward of the back axle, and the fuel line coming out is too small to fit the facet pumps input tube.

Any info will be greatly appreciated as Im totally new to V8's and I would like to use the truck as my daily driver/work wagon.
 
Josh

[disco2hse]

Howdy.

Already replied to you on LR4x4, but hopefully someone else will chime in here.

[NZstage1]

Thanks Alan, your advice has been invaluable so far!

I removed the cheap inline filter and put In a full length of hose to the pump, and the starting has become far better. The pump is way quieter, and the truck starts much quicker.

Im making progress!

[NZstage1]

Forgot I had this!

Truck is going well, being used as a daily driver with a serious drinking problem! Starting is still so-so, but is definitely improved from when I first bought it. I cleaned out the wee valves that go on the hoses from the rocker covers to somewhere.. there was a lot of gunk in them! I'm guessing they are part of the crankcase ventilation system.

As a matter of course I'm swapping my leads, rotor arm and dizzy cap out for (hopefully) genuine ones, so I have a firm base to start on. Once that's all done, I want to send it somewhere to get the carbs tuned/set up. Then its full steam ahead with a camper fit out in the rear, and a big push on boosting fuel economy as much as I can without being overly unrealistic.. after all, it is a Twin carb V8!

I'm also trying to sort some new wheels and tyres for it, I want to fit some Land Rover steels and 750/16 tyres (or 235/85/16) with a dedicated on road tread pattern. Basically I want to drive it to the camping destination (which may be a fair distance) and every little bit helps in terms of fuel saving. Will be a nice change from the M/T's as well.

The vibration has disappeared completely. I don't know why, but I'm happy its gone! I think it has to do with removing an overload and standard leaf from the rear spring pack, to soften the ride a little. I also did this on the front, and refurbished all leafs with a wire wheel and Dry lube spray. This has completely transformed the ride.

Also on the horizon is looking into whether I can refurb my gearbox due to very worn synchro's (which disagree with downshifting unless double declutched) or converting to a ZFHP22 auto (Kick-down cable) from an RRC or early Disco which would make traffic navigation a bit less of a pain.

Other than that, just been slowly tidying the body/underside as I'm planning a respray (In desert sand) and a set of work lamps/reverse lamps.

Josh

[disco2hse]

Where are you based? Got some photos?

What kind of dizzy are you using?

What is your present rate of fuel consumption? I think my fuel consumption is good and I am getting 17 miles/gallon (~16 l/100km) on the open road. Town driving is not much worse but I drive with a light foot. The amount of fuel you use is heavily dependent upon your driving style.

For 750R16 tyres, look for light truck. There are plenty available and they are relatively cheap. Run them with moderately high pressures (high enough so that it doesn't make the ride harsh but not so soft that it is hard to turn the steering wheel when stationary). For 8 ply cross plys, 26psi is normal but for radials, probably 36psi.

If you are going to change the wheels (are the ones you have damaged or excessively rusty?), then you must make certain they have the right offset. The Stage 1 has a different offset to standard series vehicles. 35mm IIRC.

[NZstage1]

Im based in Christchurch.

Here a few photos. His name is Hercules!!

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Its a civilian version so its got 12v electrics, I think its got the Lucas non-electronic dizzy. Its got a blue cap.

I don't have an exact figure of consumption but it costs $140 to fill up and it only lasts around 400km on the open road mixed in with town driving. I would like to get more km's per tank basically.

In terms of wheels, it has Disco steels at the moment which I have sprayed black and they have 265/75/16 BFG M/T tyres on them. I want to swap them because it doesn't really look right without landy steels in my opinion! Plus the wheels are too wide and rub the front leaf springs at full lock.

Cheers for the heads up with the wheels, definitely saved me some pain!

Josh

[Geoff]

If you are going to change the wheels (are the ones you have damaged or excessively rusty?), then you must make certain they have the right offset. The Stage 1 has a different offset to standard series vehicles. 35mm IIRC.

What's this about the Stage 1 having different wheels to standard series vehicles? As far as I know, they use the same standard long wheel base steel rims - my parts book doesn't say otherwise - the part number given is NRC 7578 PM - both my Stage 1s came fitted with these, and they are marked as having an offset of 33mm, although I have now replaced them on one vehicle with tubeless steel rims from a 110 Defender, which I understand are the same dimensions. Is this an NZ spec thing or something?

(Cool number plate by the way)

[disco2hse]

Thanks for the pic's. Always useful to know what it looks like. Don't know why.

Its a civilian version so its got 12v electrics, I think its got the Lucas non-electronic dizzy. Its got a blue cap.

I think I'd just recommend you either go with HEI or Pertronix. With HEI, you get more adjustment in th spark settings. Pertronix is dead easy to install and set up. Either way, no more points or condensors. Just set it and forget it.

I don't have an exact figure of consumption but it costs $140 to fill up and it only lasts around 400km on the open road mixed in with town driving. I would like to get more km's per tank basically.

The rear fuel tank is supposed to hold 68l but due to its odd shape, I only seem to be able to get about 60 into it. I would guess that is how much you are putting in with cost. If you are getting 400km out out of that, then you must be doing about 15l/100 or 18mpg. That is OK and better than mine.

In terms of wheels, it has Disco steels at the moment which I have sprayed black and they have 265/75/16 BFG M/T tyres on them. I want to swap them because it doesn't really look right without landy steels in my opinion! Plus the wheels are too wide and rub the front leaf springs at full lock.

You can adjust the turning circle so there is less rubbing. Yes, I understand why you want different wheels. Limestone wheels look right and you will find the steering much easier.

[disco2hse]

What's this about the Stage 1 having different wheels to standard series vehicles? As far as I know, they use the same standard long wheel base steel rims - my parts book doesn't say otherwise - the part number given is NRC 7578 PM - both my Stage 1s came fitted with these, and they are marked as having an offset of 33mm, although I have now replaced them on one vehicle with tubeless steel rims from a 110 Defender, which I understand are the same dimensions. Is this an NZ spec thing or something?

You're right. 33mm offset.

My confusion was with other wheels around the place that have less offset.

[NZstage1]

Excellent, I'll look through the pertronix kits on Summit when I get a chance.

I have a pair of landy wheels at my place now so I'll bolt them up and see how they go, then ill go find some new tyres when the bank account permits!

I bought a rear door last night so now all I need is to find a roof somewhere close by and I can get cracking!

Josh

[NZstage1]

Picked up a really nice condition roof last weekend and fitted it over the last few days. I fitted and centred the rear door as well and its all working as it should be!

Its bloody loud inside though, so I need to get on with some insulating. Im cutting up my marine carpet for the tub tonight as well so its all moving forward!

Starting is STILL very slow. Its getting really annoying too, its no worse than before but I want it to turn after the first couple of cranks.. not the first 15 seconds! Any ideas?

Josh

[disco2hse]

Then start from the basics and work through:
1. Spark. Is the spark strong enough?
(a) Replace leads (spark leakage),
(b) Replace plugs, especially if they are oiled (or clean them, flatten the terminal with a spark plug file and reset the gap)
(c) Replace points and condenser
(d) Check that the top of the coil is free of dust and crud (electricity can track through it from +ve to -ve)
(d) Check the condition of the coil (how old is it)
(e) Check the condition of the battery (how old is it)

2. Fuel. Is there sufficient fuel getting to the carbs.
(a) Is the fuel pump raising enough pressure
(b) Are the fuel filters clean
(c) Are there air blockages/leaks in the fuel line

3. Mixture. Is the air fuel mix correct?
(a) Is it running too lean/rich?
(b) Service the carbs (replace the diaphragm and check the needle valve for crud)
(c) Have the carbs properly tuned and balanced
(d) Check that there is no air leak in the inlet manifold (does the engine cough and sputter until it is running hot?)
(e) Replace air filter.

4. Timing. Ensure the timing is correct.
(a) Indications of incorrect timing are poor fuel economy, sluggish acceleration, hard starting, backfiring, or pinking. Too little spark advance will cause low power, bad gas mileage, backfiring, and poor performance. Too much advance will cause hard starting and pre-ignition.
(b) Check the vacuum advance hose has no air leaks. Replace if necessary.

5. Other.
(a) Clean the earth straps on the engine and that the coil is correctly earthed.

[disco2hse]

Picked up a really nice condition roof last weekend and fitted it over the last few days. I fitted and centred the rear door as well and its all working as it should be!

Its bloody loud inside though, so I need to get on with some insulating. Im cutting up my marine carpet for the tub tonight as well so its all moving forward!

Starting is STILL very slow. Its getting really annoying too, its no worse than before but I want it to turn after the first couple of cranks.. not the first 15 seconds! Any ideas?

Josh

It is a very good idea to put neutral silicon sealer between the wall and roof sections. The clear bathroom grade stuff is perfect and lasts, ooh, about 20000 years.