No hi beam and intermittent indicator problem

Technical questions and answers
disco2hse
Posts: 1641
Joined: Sun Apr 27, 2008 3:51 am
Location: Auckland NZ

No hi beam and intermittent indicator problem

Post by disco2hse »

OK. Taking a huge leap here.

Lost the hi beam lights again and the indicators stop, intermittently. Low beam works.

The bulbs are OK and using the hi beam flash on the indicator stalk works, so there is a feed to the lights and from the battery.

I am thinking it is the indicator stalk (the huge leap is that it is one cause) that is faulty, but in thinking further about it I was wondering it might be something to do with the convoy lighting circuit playing up.

Whatcha reckon?
Alan

1983 ex-army FFR 109 Stage 1
2005 Disco 2 HSE TD5
map1275
Posts: 1077
Joined: Mon Jul 21, 2008 2:48 am
Location: Brisbane, Australia

Post by map1275 »

Then try the horn and anything else that is on the blackout circuit when it happens.
disco2hse
Posts: 1641
Joined: Sun Apr 27, 2008 3:51 am
Location: Auckland NZ

Post by disco2hse »

Good idea.

Well the convoy circuit "seems" to be working properly.
Alan

1983 ex-army FFR 109 Stage 1
2005 Disco 2 HSE TD5
5988
Posts: 692
Joined: Fri Mar 13, 2009 8:57 pm
Location: Lincolnshire

Post by 5988 »

Ive no idea on how the convoy set up is wired on a stage 1 as mines a civi one, but

In my eexperience of S3's it will be the PITA indicator stalk
If you take it of the column (a screw and should be on a multi-plug) so you can look arround it you can see all the contacts and see if they ar where they should be
They bend quite easily and also like melting to each other.

There is a NOS one on ebay uk for 30 Gbp if you end up needing one
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/lucas-5403373 ... 35b4fc9808
map1275
Posts: 1077
Joined: Mon Jul 21, 2008 2:48 am
Location: Brisbane, Australia

Post by map1275 »

Military spec vehicle!

Different switch!
Kiwistage1V8
Posts: 130
Joined: Tue Oct 25, 2005 4:07 am
Location: New Zealand

Post by Kiwistage1V8 »

our nzdf stage 1's have a standard indicator etc stalk
Stop Global Whining.
5988
Posts: 692
Joined: Fri Mar 13, 2009 8:57 pm
Location: Lincolnshire

Post by 5988 »

map1275 wrote:Military spec vehicle!

Different switch!
As I said, not familiar with the set of NZ military LR's so based my answer on UK ones

Anyway - Sorry for trying to help the OP :shock:
disco2hse
Posts: 1641
Joined: Sun Apr 27, 2008 3:51 am
Location: Auckland NZ

Post by disco2hse »

The OP says: You are welcome, any suggestion is good. It is up to me to sort out what to do :)
Alan

1983 ex-army FFR 109 Stage 1
2005 Disco 2 HSE TD5
disco2hse
Posts: 1641
Joined: Sun Apr 27, 2008 3:51 am
Location: Auckland NZ

Post by disco2hse »

Plan of action.

Managed to get the lights working with the help of some solder and sandpaper, a nail, and a screw driver.

Will need 30A wire, four 24V relays, four 15/30A fuses, two dual fuse holders, and two tupperware boxes.

Mount the fuse holders and relays in the tupperware boxes and drill holes for wire in/out.

For each side:
1. Run fat wires from the main battery feed to the head lights.
2. Split the main beam wire and put in a relay that takes the feed from the new fat wire, but that switches from the indicator stalk.
3. Wire in the fuse. It goes before the relay.
4. Do the same thing for the dipped feed wire.
Alan

1983 ex-army FFR 109 Stage 1
2005 Disco 2 HSE TD5
noexitroad
Posts: 73
Joined: Sat Dec 04, 2010 8:51 am
Location: thames, new zealand

Post by noexitroad »

its a good idea and you will probably have nice bright headlights but your indicators will still be a problem????
disco2hse
Posts: 1641
Joined: Sun Apr 27, 2008 3:51 am
Location: Auckland NZ

Post by disco2hse »

Yeah, not sure about them. They are on a much more complex circuit with the trailer wiring, flasher, etc. Probably would need another four relays and a lot more wire. I assume relays will handle the regular on/off signal from the flasher.

Looking like I will need to put in a buzz-bar to run all the wire from. I think I will need to talk to my local auto-sparky to find out the correct diameter of wire over longer distances (could be a significant drain on battery if they are too large).
Alan

1983 ex-army FFR 109 Stage 1
2005 Disco 2 HSE TD5
noexitroad
Posts: 73
Joined: Sat Dec 04, 2010 8:51 am
Location: thames, new zealand

Post by noexitroad »

i have left my wiring diagram in the shed tonight but i think we should check that again before you carry home an armload of stuff from your friendly auto store. if it is anything like my stage 1 it has had more than it's fair share of water ingress into the electrical system over the years so it may just be a shitty earth or something like that. if you want a drive in the country you could swing by my place and we could swap a few things over before you change a whole bunch of stuff to no avail.
disco2hse
Posts: 1641
Joined: Sun Apr 27, 2008 3:51 am
Location: Auckland NZ

Post by disco2hse »

Let me get back to you later in the week.
Alan

1983 ex-army FFR 109 Stage 1
2005 Disco 2 HSE TD5
disco2hse
Posts: 1641
Joined: Sun Apr 27, 2008 3:51 am
Location: Auckland NZ

Post by disco2hse »

Sent you a PM:)
Alan

1983 ex-army FFR 109 Stage 1
2005 Disco 2 HSE TD5
disco2hse
Posts: 1641
Joined: Sun Apr 27, 2008 3:51 am
Location: Auckland NZ

Post by disco2hse »

Job is finally done.

Got a Hella relay unit with built in fuses. Wiring off the alternator feed, so uninterrupted and constant. Nice thing with the new unit is it clicks when I switch from low to high and vice versa.

The indicator switch I bought from Craddocks (bought two actually). Found the replacement unit has one multi-plate plug and four spade terminals but I need two multi-plate plugs. So, cut off the spade terminals and soldered the wires to the original plug wires. All good now.

The new switch did not fix the intermittent flashing. Turns out that was because there were several broken solders and dry joints in the Hella flasher unit. Soldered them back up and good as new.

In the meantime, the fuel gauge decided it was going to start playing silly buggers. It was randomly moving up and down as I drove. Figuring that it was either one of three things, I first checked the sender connection and wire. That looked pretty sad so cut out a chunk and reconnected with new wire. Problem still there: so it must be either bad earth or the voltage stabiliser was on the way out. The latter seemed doubtful because the other gauges were working fine. Flipped the binnacle out and found the earths were loose. Clean and tighten. Put back together, Bob's yer uncle.

Last thing, I need to replace the head light lenses because they silver coating is corroded. Ordered and arriving Monday. Hella Heavy Duty jobbies.
Alan

1983 ex-army FFR 109 Stage 1
2005 Disco 2 HSE TD5
Post Reply