Oil Pump Service

firemanshort · Post by **firemanshort** » Wed Apr 22, 2009 7:23 pm

Has any replaced thier oil pump (pieces or parts)? If so, what specific parts were replaced? How were those pieces determined to be bad?

What were the signs and symptoms of the truck performance that indicated that oil pump needed work / replacement?

5988 · Post by **5988** » Wed Apr 22, 2009 8:54 pm

Whats your oil pressure like?
if its reasonably close to the value pubished by rover then the pump will be fine
if its low it could be worn pump but more likely a worn engine.

if youve got the pump in bits look for wear on components - not ahd a V8 pump apart so dont know whats in there to check

map1275 · Post by **map1275** » Wed Apr 22, 2009 9:23 pm

If you have it apart for any reason then replace it. The parts are cheap (except for the timing cover and oil pump head).

I had to replace a broken bolt from a water pump replacement (caused by the local Land-Rover specialist), so had the timing cover off. Pump gears had light brinelling at the root of the teeth. Had been in since new (25 years). This did increase maximum oil pressure and was also quicker to build up from start.

firemanshort · Post by **firemanshort** » Fri Apr 24, 2009 2:50 am

What does "brinelling" mean?

My oil pump develops 20psi of pressure at idle and when cold (first start up). I can watch it idle and warm up and the oil pressure drop. After it reaches a good warm operating temperature, the oil pressure has dropped to < 10psi and the oil light comes on.

Any increase in the throttle and the oil pressue goes up - like it is supposed to.

When I get things really heated up - long highway drive - and then pull off to side road or exit and am traveling 40mph in 4th gear, the rpms and oil pressure are low enough to make the oil light come on.

That is why I think I need to do something to the oil pump. I am reading more about this pressure releif valve spring.....

map1275 · Post by **map1275** » Fri Apr 24, 2009 6:10 am

OP relief valve governs maximum OP, nothing more. When OP exceeds spring pressure, the valve opens, returning surplus oil to the sump.

OP specs are covered in your workshop manual.

Bumpkin · Post by **Bumpkin** » Fri Apr 24, 2009 9:10 am

Hiya
My old girls oil pressure has done what Fireman shorts is doing for the last 5 years although the light never comes on. Still going strong.
Terry

firemanshort · Post by **firemanshort** » Sun Apr 26, 2009 5:21 pm

I took the oil pump cover off.

The lower plate shows signs of wear. It is not smooth but rather cut like a disc brake rotor. The edge of the gears are cut and coarse, too. The upper housing edges are not smooth. If I run my finger inside it there are sharp edges that pick at my rubber glove.

I assumed that a good oil pump would be slick like a wheel bearing race.

Is this normal, bad or what? Has anyone else pulled the bottom oil pump cover and taken a look-see?

map1275 · Post by **map1275** » Mon Apr 27, 2009 8:35 am

You would hope that OP gears would have a bearing finish but the don't. From what you have described they need to be replaced. The end housing has worn through the anodised finish and also needs to be replaced also. Though I I doubt you will want to pay for this part.

It would also be wise to remove the sump and check the pick-up.

firemanshort · Post by **firemanshort** » Mon May 18, 2009 2:17 am

I found an oil pump face plate on eBay for about $30 - it was in pretty good shape - not new but pretty good. I ordered new oil pump gears from rpi in the UK. I removed the sump and cleaned the pick up - but it was really clean already.

A couple of new gaskets, a tub of vaseline, a bespoke priming bit for my cordless drill and viola!

Oil pressure is back up to about 35psi cold / idle and 25 psi hot / idle.

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