PTO winch is in, yes!

disco2hse · Post by **disco2hse** » Fri Nov 06, 2009 4:26 am

Yep, the winch is finally in and done and I just got the WOF so it's legal too.

Here's some pic's.

From the front. Foreshortening makes it look bigger than it is.

From the top, not too much poking out the front so pedestrians need not be afraid.

Just some branding for Thomas

The bash plate is 3mm steel.

View of the PTO drive shaft. I needed two new universals, a new length of shaft, and two new cushion bearing blocks to get it all connected up right.

View towards the front of the shaft.

And from the driver's side. Note I had to take off the steering damper until I can figure out where to put it. Possibly rotate the arm 90º towards the back and attach the arm to an extension off the chassis. Need to put the front end into extreme articulation to find out what the actual distances are between thing first.

Had to make up a handle for the PTO selector. The black knob is from a Santana.

V8_Disco · Post by **V8_Disco** » Fri Nov 06, 2009 11:21 am

Looks good,

A

disco2hse · Post by **disco2hse** » Fri Nov 06, 2009 6:49 pm

disco2hse · Post by **disco2hse** » Sun Nov 08, 2009 1:02 am

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uqQ1RDXdPU8

5988 · Post by **5988** » Sun Nov 08, 2009 10:24 am

nice MG there

disco2hse · Post by **disco2hse** » Sun Nov 08, 2009 6:56 pm

Yeah, 'cept it ain't going

disco2hse · Post by **disco2hse** » Sun Nov 29, 2009 10:10 pm

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ogTwOob52m4

Jamie_grieve · Post by **Jamie_grieve** » Fri Dec 11, 2009 1:15 am

Looks good but from here it looks like you'll need more clearance for the drive shaft above the axle. I've got a bracket bolted to the sump and if I ever get my camera to talk to the computer I'll post some pics. Basically you need as much clearance as between the axle and the chassis. Next, does your PTO have a slip clutch or are you using shear pins? My winch is a fairey but same idea and the gearing is 60:1 and the manual says set the clutch at 80lbs ft. Use brass shear pins as they are much easier to get out. Drill bits wreck the shaft if you use them and nails are too soft.
I mounted my winch behind the bumper and chopped out and replaced the front x member. It sits a little higher so I had to move the radiator up a wee bit.

disco2hse · Post by **disco2hse** » Fri Dec 11, 2009 2:43 am

I have compressed the nearside suspension up as far as the bump blocks and there is still about 20mm clearance, same as there is between the shaft and the chassis cross member. Enough I think.

The winch has shear pins. I have 1/4" copper, which is what was recommended by Maurice at Archerfields.

I looked at the Series option of attaching the PTO drive shaft to the sump but decided there might too much movement/torque on the drive mechanism that could weaken or damage the engine block or sump.

Jamie_grieve · Post by **Jamie_grieve** » Fri Dec 11, 2009 11:50 am

20mm doesn't sound much. You need to have enough room for both wheels to come up on full bump and compress into the bump stop. Really you want enough clearance as if there was no bumpstop at all. They are only glued on anyway. One wheel up puts the other one down and the bit in the middle isn't moving that much. I'd bend a bit of No 7 (like a good Kiwi

) the shape of the axle and lift it up and down and just see how much clearance you have. Hopefully there is enough so you don't have to worry about it. If not though.......?
There should be no real force on the sump flange as long as the UJ's are not binding. There's less than 100lbft on the shaft anyway and you could make more with your hands. I picked up on 4 sump bolts and had to grind the flange on the side of the sump a wee bit so it would sit level. I've got two PTO winches, the other on a defender, both factory fit and both had the bearings on the sump.
What size of rope are you using? I use 11mm wire on mine but almost everyone over here is using the synthetic plasma rope.
I'm looking for a PTO winch in NZ to stick on my old Gipsy with a P76 engine in it. If you hear of anything gimme a shout

I've never seen or heard of copper shear pins but if you can get them then great. The problem with soft materials is they burr over in the shaft and it makes them hard to get out. Brass breaks quite cleanly. I used drill bits too but don't recomend them.
I can't see a sliding joint on the shaft. Is it on splines at the winch end? That could cause problems if not.

landdani · Post by **landdani** » Fri Jan 01, 2010 9:39 pm

Hello, is it an mechanical winch connected to the gear? Is it orijinal Staje 1?

disco2hse · Post by **disco2hse** » Sun Jan 03, 2010 4:33 am

It is mechanical and driven from the gearbox. It is made for the LT95 (Stage 1) gearbox by Thomas Industries in Australia at the same time that the Stage 1 was made.

disco2hse · Post by **disco2hse** » Sun Jan 03, 2010 4:37 am

Jamie_grieve wrote:What size of rope are you using? I use 11mm wire on mine but almost everyone over here is using the synthetic plasma rope.

9mm synthetic.

Jamie_grieve wrote:I'm looking for a PTO winch in NZ to stick on my old Gipsy with a P76 engine in it. If you hear of anything gimme a shout

There are always PTO winches on Trademe but you may not be able to bid for them unless you are in Australia or NZ. They are generally for Cruisers or Nissans.

Jamie_grieve wrote:I can't see a sliding joint on the shaft. Is it on splines at the winch end? That could cause problems if not.

Between PTO output and the first universal.

Jamie_grieve · Post by **Jamie_grieve** » Sun Jan 03, 2010 6:09 pm

Have you got a photo of the PTO assy? Is it an enclosed chain drive from the PTO on the back of the mainshaft like the fairyey/Superwinch ones or does it come from the bottom of the transfer case like a 101? Does it have provision for driving to the rear as well?

disco2hse · Post by **disco2hse** » Sun Jan 03, 2010 10:26 pm

I think I have a photo somewhere but I can't find it for now.

It is an enclosed chain drive and comes from the main shaft. It is 1:1. While there is a shaft that comes out the rear I don't think it is configured to drive from it (insufficient bearing strength by looking at it).

This is the unit I bought from Oz.

This is before he removed it from his wagon.