Stage 1 V8

Not to be a pain, but with Stage ones and parts drying up the way they are, they'll be even rarer by the time you get around to it. You're young and don't have the usual big expenses of a) kids, and b) a mortgage, (mind you, neither do I!), so you should sell that go-fast machine and get a Landie wh...

Any petrol will do. When things went to unleaded, the advice for Rangies, (same engine), was just to retard the timing by a couple of degrees, though you don't have to worry about that just yet! The general rule with these older engines is the higher the octane the better, simply because it will bur...

Hey, thanks for hijacking my thread!

Disco, thanks for the pointers. Djam, I mostly need front axle parts: stub axles, swivels, swivel pins, but because of what the car will be used for I'd like to avoid secondhand unless it's perfect.

Like everyone else here, I'm having lots of trouble finding Stage I parts, in particular for the front axle.

I remember a while ago the New Zealand Army sold off the last of their Stage Is and parts. Where did all the parts go?

If you happen to read about them in old LRO magazines, the comment is usually something like, "Yes, the SUs give slightly more power and economy, and hold their tune a bit better." I think because they lack that rubber diaphragm, (which can be a weak point if it gets a hole, though it shou...

Funny you should ask, as I've just bought an engine that came with a similar dizzy and I had to work out what it was. The one with an integrated amp is the Lucas 35DLM8. This was the later version of the 35DM8, which had a separate amp. The integrated amp is known to fail from being subjected to eng...

A thought - what if you just machined the drive flange a bit? Then you could use a circlip and shims as usual.

Something tells me that because of the pressures required it can't be done. However, I've heard of quite a few hydraulic winches being driven by power steering pumps.

Hi. Thanks for that. I saw your comment in another thread and I was curious because of course parts are going to dry up more as time goes on. I was going to call Maxi-Drive to see if they did something heavy-duty for the Stage I since they already do 110 stuff. I know what you mean about the crappy ...

True . . .

. . . I just wondered if anyone else knew anything.

djam1 wrote a little while ago: You can use 110 cvs if you put a bolt in the end and dont use the circlip Can anyone expand on this? Because it's certainly easier to get 110 CVs than Stage I! I take it the extra track of the 110 axle is in the inner axle shaft, and that this would make the CV shaft ...

Yeah, what he said. All the body parts are SIII except of course for the bonnet and rad panel, and inside, the seatbase and transmission tunnel are special, too.

Good on ya!

And you learned something, too. Always a bonus!

I just a got going a very early 110 I bought (it's just a Stage I with coils, really) and the sound of the V8 is well worth the trouble.

The top bolt really is just on top of the starter, and under the exhaust manifold. A torch and mirror may help. And personally, if the neighbours thought I was mad for having a Landie, (and they do think that here in Toyota country), I'd use the hand crank on the engine just to keep them thinking th...

I can't guarantee this is the answer, but the first thing you should always do with this problem is to check all the earths. Clean the battery terminals, take any earth leads off where they connect to the chassis and clean all the metal, and check the main positive cable as well. It's quite common f...