Stage 1 V8

From memory, they are unique to Stage 1, but similar to RR.

I don't think I could deal with the stress of getting the test done every 6 months!

Mind you there's theoretically less chance of things deteriorating to a point where they become dangerous/fail the test in 6 months.

Would be interesting to see the spec for the NZ Test.

Especially if it stays below £400!

The MoT is the worst part of old LR ownership. Always a nerve wracking time.

Don't know if the feeling when you pass is happiness or relief!

Well done for another year.

I saw that LR advertised in Autotrader some years back and was very tempted. Doesn't appear to have any details on the DVLA vehicle enquiry site, which usually means it's been scrapped (unless the reg no. is wrong). Which would be a shame, as it was lovely. Had a look on Youtube and couldn't find th...

Have you found the leak yet? (ie. puddle/stain under tank or wet underside of tank). I had a strong petrol smell under mine and couldn't find the leak on the tank or the pipes until I switched on the ignition and spotted fuel p#ssing out from underneath. It was a split on the U bend above the fuel p...

Very nice work, but I think I'd be tempted to just go and buy a 110 if I wanted disc brakes that badly though.

Did anyone see the "Wheeler Dealers on the Road" episode with the Stage 1 V8 on Discovery RealTime?

Very nice Stage 1, that they didn't seem to realise what they had.

Youtube - Wheeler Dealers

Check the orientation of the float when you put back the sender, it can foul on the baffle and side of tank if not in exactly the correct place leading to incorrect readings.

Mine wouldn't go above 1/4, moved the sender round a few degrees and it now has full travel.

Just a little thing that may help. If you find a crack in aluminium or anything else for that matter (also very good for plastics and GRP), drill a small hole at the extreme ends of the crack. This should stop the crack propogating further, you can then fill, dress or repair as you like. This techni...

The main problem with fishing out the clip with my flexible grabber tool was that the inside of the bell housing was/is coated in a very sticky oil concoction about 6-7mm thick and the clip has landed somewhere in it and I can't see it or feel it anywhere. So really I should take it apart anyway to ...

Did the same thing but dropped the bloody clip into the bottom of the bell housing , now have no choice but to remove gearbox. Leaving it until it has to come out for the chassis swap. Glad you sorted it (or rather came up with a better method than mine before you lost the clip)

I get them from Maplins as well:

Sockets

Plugs

Don't know if you've managed to do this mod yet, but there was an article in LRO some years back (probably about 10 years!) about how to do this to a series vehicle using RR parts. If anyone has the back issues, they may be able to find it for you (sorry, mine got thrown in the skip when I moved hou...

You forgot the bit about loosing the filler plug and spending 20 minutes hunting the drive for it only to remember that you'd put it somewhere safe!