Stage 1 V8

So they are saying it is slop in the transfer case which I think is an LT230 you have just fitted, not the LT95 that came with the vehicle?

The stage one front axle has a misalignment from factory, that is why it uses the cardan type front driveshaft. The misalignment is because the axle is rotated 10deg toward the transfer case front flange as the driveshaft length is too short and creates too large a universal angle without it. If you...

If you are using a lot or the oil pressure is low I would use the thicker oil, but if the pressure and usage are acceptable carry on with what you have.
The recommended oil is 20/50w

My 110 has the same problem, about to replace the unis in the rear shaft, most likely cause as it is all standard. When I do rebuild it with the auto and borgwarner transfer I will fit a stage 1 front prop.

yes RR 10 spline are the same as 109 v8 front. straight swap. send me an email if you like.

I can do a RR 88 diff, the same as the 109 if you need one.
A 24 spline from a disco or late RR will fit but you would have to get new axles made.
Any locker or LSD for standard 3.5 Rover diffs will fit.

sorry I cant give you exact lengths, but I can cofirm RR one is about 200mm shorter. The one on my 110 is 1100mm at rest on the vehicle, which wont be much different to the 109.

Hi Andrew. If it did not fire at all with engine start I would be looking at electrics first. The carbs tend to be a lot more forgiving than the ignition. Not sure which dizzy you have, most of the RF screened ones seem to have been removed before they left the army. I have just bought an MSD to put...

Once removed from the landy you should be able to remove the float chamber and clean them out, just the usual precautions, nice clean work area and containers for everything. This was sent me a while ago may be of help; Tuning SU CarbsTuning SU Carbs Courtesy of Roger Garnett Revised 5 Dec 91 Well, ...

nzlromacka wrote: Awaiting further carburettor rebuild instructions! :p

Disconnect the fuel lines and throttle linkages.
Take off the four nuts holding the carb baseplate to the manifold, remove the carbs and take them to a carb rebuilder

looks like six screws to hold the float chamber on. I would think it easiest to remove the carbs from the manifold and do a complete strip and clean. But before I was going to do that I would spray some easy start into the carbs and see if it fires, just to be sure I wasnt chasing a non existant car...

If the dampers have oil on them that should be okay, the book says 6mm from the top but it is a pain to try to check that in the vehicle.
Does sound like carb(s) then. Did you say you had recently swapped over tanks, could have been some dirt got through if one had been unused for a while.

Hi Andrew. I would check the fuel at the return line, where it connects at the drivers side carb. Then you can be sure of no blockages to there, if its fuel then it must be in the carbs if that is okay. The black caps are the dampers on the pistons. The pistons should move freely and should have oil...

Welcome Andrew. This is a great place to visit, I dont pop in as much as I used to, have moved up to a 110 now, and most of my stage 1 parts collection has gone. You are fortunate though, NZ has plenty of stage 1 parts around at present (the army was good for something) though they are being bought ...

If I switch off and immediately restart then no problems. If I leave it for ten minutes it needs loads of gas pedal to fire.. Also what did you do about fuel return. As in need to pump the gas, or hold it on the floor. If it needs pumping could be vapourising in the carb due to heat. If it needs ho...