Stage 1 V8

Hopefully then if I reconnect it, the engine should theoretically fire easier and possibly fire up quicker (ie. less time cranking). Maybe, I'm not sure which bits you have connected and whether it's in or out of circuit. Mine usually seems to take a few seconds of cranking to get going, especially...

I'm not sure that the spark would necessarily be 'stronger than normal' if the coil was running on 12V. The idea is more to stop it becoming weaker than normal when the battery voltage drops during cranking.

David

Whether you need the ballast resistor would depend on the coil. Standard setup has a 6V coil and drops 6V across the ballast resistor. When cranking, a secondary contact on the solenoid puts full battery volts (less than 12v due to cranking load) onto the coil side of the ballast resistor to boost t...

I may be wrong, but I think early Range Rovers only had the air cleaner box without the rest of the gubbins. Maybe thats where the engine came from? Not sure about the 'rest of the gubbins' but I was given an exhaust manifold with air intake chimney which came off a Rangie and appears to be just th...

The decal on mine is two layers of cut vinyl with the black letters stuck on to the silver background.

There's a close-up picture here

I carry out a mass deletion of the spammers every few days or so when I get around to it. They get as far as being on the member list but can't actually post messages unless I authorise them (I used to have it set for self-authorisation by email but some of them were getting through and posting mess...

I've put some photos of my battery cover here: http://stage1v8.org.uk/battery_cover/

There's a bit of flare from the flash but you can still see what it's like.

David

Bumpkin wrote: 1 clip either end turned with a 10 pence piece.

Well that's different to mine. Maybe because I have County spec. and the seats
are different? I'll try and remember to take a photo at the weekend.

Dave

jonnyboy wrote:

• b) There is no sign of there ever being a catch on the front of my seat box to hold it like there is on the passenger side.

It's a different type of clip. From memory the seat box would have a slot in the top front edge. I can take a photo if you want to know how it looks.

Dave

i am using Deestone 7.50*16 and the number at the bottom of speedo is 1536 that is why i was asking about changes that anybody knew about on the previous owners post Mine is accurate with 235/85 tyres (which should be much the same circumference as 7.50) and a 1376 (I believe the number is revs per...

I've obtained the previous owner's details and you should have an email.

Let us know if you find out anything interesting.

Dave

KRÅVL wrote:Hm, I guess torqing the bolts by "feel" is sufficient, then? I hate leaks!

There's no torque figure given in the book. It does say to use sealant at the join between the timing chain cover (if I remember right) and block.

David

Although you're checking the carbs and have replaced most of the ignition bits
I wouldn't rule out the coil. I had similar problems on my Lightweight with a
coil which failed when it warmed up but was fine for the first mile or so.

David

jonnyboy wrote:I remember reading somewhere thet you can pressurise the rad by getting hold of a mountain bike innertube ...

Sounds like a good idea. I'm going to try some BARS SEAL Leak Stopper in the short term.

David

If you can find the leak try removing a couple of fins around it and then sealing it with epoxy. The problem is accurately locating the leak. Maybe I'll have to put it in the bath and pressurise it or something. Bumpkin has a Range Rover rad in his Stage 1. Yes, saw that at Billing. You can only st...